■ ■ 



■I 



) 






MEMOIES OF AN AEABIAN PKINCESS. 



MEMOIRS OF 



AN ARABIAN PRINCESS 



An Autobiography 



BY 

EMILY RUETE 

Nee Princess of Oman and Zanzibar 



NEW YORK 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 



771 31? 



* -3f 



This version of " The Memoirs of an Arabian 
Princess" is rendered from the German, in which 
language the work originally appeared. 



By transfer 

U. S. Sold'ers Home Lib. 

JUL 14 1936 



PREFACE. 



Nine years ago I made up my mind to write down 
some sketches of my life for my children, who at 
that time knew little more about my origin than that 
I was an Arabian and a native of Zanzibar. Tired 
out in body and in mind, I did not then expect to 
live to bp. able to tell them, when they had grown up, 
of the many changes in my life, and of the recollec- 
tions of my youth. I therefore resolved to write my 
memoirs for them, and this I have done for love and 
devotion to my children, whose affection has been my 
only solace for many long and anxious years, and 
whose tender sympathy has kept me from despair in 
my heaviest troubles. 

Originally, therefore, my memoirs were not intended 
for the general public, but for my dear children alone, 
to whom I desired to bequeath the same, in token of 
a fond mother's love, and I^only yielded to the re- 
peatedly expressed wishes of many friends in having 
them published now. 



VI PREFACE. 

These pages were concluded years ago — with the 
exception of the last chapter, which was added re- 
cently, after a voyage I was permitted to undertake, 
with my children, to my old home, Zanzibar, in the 
course of last year. 

May this book, then, go out into the world and gain 
as many friends as it has always been my good fortune 
to make for myself ! 






CONTENTS. 



CHAP. 

I. BET IL MTONI . 



PAGE 
1 



15 

26 



II. BET IL WATORO • 

III. A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL • . • < 

IV. OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAD. EL 37 

V. REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI • 

VI. DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE 
VII. OUR MKAT.S ...... 



43 

48 
57 



VIII. BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE 

AND PRINCESS . . . . .61 

IX. SCHOOLING IN THE EAST .... 72 

X. YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUR HOUSE- 
HOLD ...... 81 

XI. A PLANTATION ...... 87 

XII. MY FATHER'S VOYAGE .... 95 

XIII. DEATH-NEWS ...... 104 

XIV. OUR MOURNING . . . . . 110 
XV. ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS . . 117 

XVI. WOMAN'S POSITION IN THE EAST . . . 146 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

CHAP. PAGE 
XVII. ARAB MATCHMAKING ..... 1C3 

XVIII. AN ARAB LADY'S CALL . . . . 171 

XIX. THE AUDIENCE. INTERCOURSE BETWEEN GENTLEMEN 178 

XX. THE LONG FAST ..... 183 

XXI. THE LITTLE FESTIVAL . . . . 1S9 

XXII. THE GREAT FESTIVAL .... 197 

XXIII. AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM . 202 

XXIV. DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. POSSESSED 

PEOPLE ..... 

XXV. SLAVERY . . . • • 

XXVI. MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION . 227 

XXVII. KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU . . • 255 

XXVIII. MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR . . • 2G4 

XXIX. GREAT CHANGES ..... 270 

XXX. SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON . . • 274 

XXXI. RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS 282 



208 

218 



CHAPTER I. 

BET IL MTONI. 

In Bet il Mtoni, the oldest of our palaces in the 
island of Zanzibar, I was born, and there I lived until 
the age of seven. 

Bet il Mtoni, distant about five miles from the city 
of Zanzibar, lies on the sea coast, surrounded by most 
beautiful scenery, and quite hidden in a grove of palm 
and mango trees, and other gigantic specimens of 
tropical vegetation. The "house of my birth is called 
" Mtoni house," after the little river Mtoni, which 
rises only a few miles inland, runs through the whole 
palace into numerous fountains, and flows directly 
behind the palace walls into the splendid and ani- 
mated inlet which severs the island from the African 
continent. • 

Only one large-sized courtyard divides the numerous 
buildings of Bet il Mtoni, which, on account of their 
heterogeneous styles, invented as occasion required, 
with their numberless and puzzling passages, must 
be called, on the whole, ugly rather than beautiful. 

I do not distinctly remember now the arrangement 
of the vast number of rooms these buildings contained, 
but I can well recall to my mind the large bathing 



* MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

accommodation at Bet il Mtoni. There were a dozen 
baths in one row at the extreme end of the courtyard, 
and in rainy weather these popular resorts could only 
be reached under the shelter of an umbrella. Apart 
from them lay what was called the " Persian" bath, 
a Turkish steam bath, whose ingenious and tasteful 
architecture was unequalled in Zanzibar. 

• Each bathing house contained two baths, five yards 
long by four yards wide, and just deep enough to let 
the water come up to the breast of a grown-up person. 

These refreshing baths were a favourite resort with 
all people in the house ; most of them stayed in them 
for many hours every day, to pray, sleep, work, and 
read there, even to take their meals ; and from four 
o'clock in the morning till midnight they were never 
once empty. 

On entering these bath-houses, which are all alike, 
two raised resting-places may be observed to the right 
and left for prayer and repose, which are covered with 
the finest coloured mats. Every other article of 
luxury, such as carpets, was banished from these 
rooms. Every Muslim (Mahometan) requires a 
separate and perfectly clean dress for prayers, in- 
tended only for this purpose, and which ought to be 
quite white. Of course this rather inconvenient re- 
ligious precept is only followed by extremely devout 
persons. 

The places of repose are separated by narrow 
arcades from the bath-rooms, which are all in the 
open air ; two arched bridges of stone, with steps 
gradually rising, lead again to other rooms lying 
apart. 



;. 



BET IL MTONI. «* 

Each bath-room was allotted to a special set of 
occupants ; woe to the person who did not keep within 
her proper bounds ! A very rigorous spirit of caste 
ruled at Bet il Mtoni, which was observed by high 
and low alike. 

Tall orange trees, as high as the largest cherry trees 
in these parts, throve in dense rows in front of the 
bath-houses ; their branches often sheltered us while 
young, when we were afraid of punishment from our 
excessively strict teacher. 

Man and beast lived amicably together in the large 
courtyard, without being in the least inconvenienced 
by each other's presence — peacocks, gazelles, guinea- 
fowls, flamingoes, geese, ducks, and ostriches roamed 
about in perfect liberty, and were petted and fed by 
old and young. . We children vastly enjoyed hunting 
out the many eggs that lay about here and there, 
especially the large ostrich eggs, and to hand them 
over to the bead cook, who would reward us with 
presents of sweetmeats. 

Twice a day, early in the morning and in the even- 
ing, all children above five years of age had riding 
lessons in this court from one of the eunuchs, during 
which the members of our little zoological garden 
roamed about as freely as, ever. When we had made 
sufficient progress in this art, we were each mounted 
by our father. The boys got permission to choose a 
horse from the royal stud, while we girl3 received 
large white donkeys from Mesket, which are often 
much more expensive than horses. Of course we 
were provided with a complete harness for these 
handsome beasts at the same time. 



4 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Our chief amusement in these family houses con- 
sisted in taking long rides, as we had neither theatri- 
cals nor concerts to entertain us. "We frequently had 
races in the countiy, which as frequently ended in an 
accident. Once I nearly lost my life in such a race. 
Afraid of being overtaken by my brother Hamdam, I 
had paid no attention to a very large -crooked cocoa 
tree right in my way, and my forehead had almost 
come in contact with its stem before I had even 
noticed it. Quick as thought I threw myself 
back, and in this way mercifully escaped a horrid 
death. 

The numerous flights of stairs were one of the pecu- 
liarities of Bet il Mtoni, which were unusually steep, 
and had huge steps, apparently made for a race of 
giants. Straight up they went, without a turning or 
a landing place ; one's only assistance a very primitive 
kind of railing, which, being in constant use, needed 
as constant repair. I remember even now how all 
the people living in our wing of the house were 
frightened one morning when both railings of our 
stone staircase were found to be missing, and I am 
yet surprised that of the many persons passing up 
and down no one came to grief. 

Statistics being a thing quite unknown in Zanzibar, 
nobody of course could tell how many people actually 
lived in our house. I think I do not exaggerate, how- 
ever, in estimating the total number of inhabitants at 
Bet il Mtoni at one thousand. To understand this it 
must be remembered that great numbers of servants 
are employed in the East by all people of quality and 
by those who want to appear rich. At least an equal 



1- 



BET IL MTONI. 5 

number of persons were lodged in my father's city 
palace, Bet il Saliel, or " Strandkouse." 

In the wing nearest to the sea at Bet il Mtoni were 
the apartments of my father, Sejid Said, Imam of 
Mesket and Sultan of Zanzibar, and those of his prin- 
cipal wife, who was a distant relation of his. He 
resided, however, only four days a week in the country 
with us, and the remainder he spent in his city palace, 
Bet il Sahel. The title " Imam" is a religious dignity, 
which is but rarely conferred on a sovereign. Origi- 
nally we owe this distinction to our great-grandfather 
"Ahmed" ; the title has since that time been hereditary 
in our family, and every member of it is authorized 
to append it to his signature. 

Being one of his younger children I only remember 
my father with his venerable, snow-white beard. He 
was above middle height, his features had a very 
fascinating and engaging expression, and his whole 
appearance commanded respect. In spite of his war- 
like propensities and his delight in conquest, he was 
a model father and sovereign. Justice he valued as 
the highest of all things, and in this respect he knew 
no difference of person, not even between one of his 
own sons and the lowest slave. He humbled himself 
before God ; nor was he self-conceited and proud like 
so many high-born people. It happened, and not 
rarely either, that he would ride over by himself to 
the wedding of a simple slave, who had gained his 
regard by many years of loyal service, to offer his 
congratulations to the young couple in person. He 
always used to call me, " Old woman," as I was very 
fond of cold milk soup (Arab, " farni "), wLxch is 



6 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

the favourite meal of all our old and toothless 
people. 

My mother was a Circassian by birth, who in early 
youth had been torn away from her home. Her father 
had been a farmer, and she had always lived peace- 
fully with her parents and her little brother and 
sister. War broke out suddenly, and the country was 
overrun by marauding bands ; on their approach the 
family fled into an underground place, as my mother 
called it — she probably meant a cellar, which is not 
known in Zanzibar. Their place of refuge was, how- 
ever, invaded by a merciless horde, the parents were 
slain, and the children carried off by three mounted 
Arnauts. One of these, with her elder brother, soon 
disappeared out of sight; the other two, with my 
mother and her little sister, three years old, crying 
bitterly for her mother, kept together until evening, 
when they too parted, and my mother never heard 
any more of the lost ones as long as she lived. 

She came into my father's possession when quite a 
child, probably at the tender age of seven or eight 
years, as she cast her first tooth in our house. She 
was at once adopted as playmate by two of my sisters, 
her own age, with whom she was educated and brought 
up. Together with them she learnt to read, which 
raised her a good deal above her equals, who,* as a 
rule, 'became members of our family at the age of six- 
teen or eighteen years, or older still, when they had 
outgrown whatever taste they might once have had 
for schooling. She could scarcely be called pretty, 
but she was tall and shapely, had black eyes, and 
hair down to her knees. Of a very gentle disposition, 



BET IL MTONI. 7 

her greatest pleasure consisted in assisting other 
people, in looking after and nursing any sick per- 
son in the house ; and I well remember her going 
about with her books from one patient to another, 
reading prayers to them. 

She was in great favour with my father, who never 
refused her anything, though she interceded mostly 
for others, and, when she came to see him, he always 
rose to meet her half-way — a distinction he conferred 
but very rarely. She was as kind and pious as she 
was modest, and in all her dealings frank and open. 
She had had another daughter besides myself, who 
had died quite young. Her mental powers were not 
great, but she was very clever at needlework. She 
has always been a tender and loving mother to me, 
but this did not hinder her from punishing me 
severely when she deemed it necessary. 

She had many friends at Bet il Mtoni, which is 
rarely to be met with in an Arab harem. She had 
the most unshaken and firmest trust in God. When I 
was about five years old I remember a fire breaking 
out in the stables close by, one night while my father 
was at his city residence. A false alarm spread over 
the house that we, too, were in imminent danger; upon 
which the good woman hastened to take me on one 
arm, and her big Ktiran (we pronounce the word thus) 
on the other, and hurried into the open air. On the 
rest of her possessions she set no value in this hour 
of danger. 

My father had only one Horme (plural Harino), or 
legitimate wife, at my time, as far as I recollect; his 
other wives, or Sarari (singular Surie), numbering 



8 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

seventy-five at his death, had all been purchased by 
him gradually, and the former, his first wife, Azze 
bint Sef, a princess of Oman by birth, reigned as 
absolute mistress over the household. In spite of 
her very small size, and of her plain exterior, she 
possessed an immense power over my father, who 
willingly submitted to all her arrangements. She 
treated all the other wives and their children in a 
very imperious, haughty, and pretentious manner; 
happily for us she had no children of her own, who 
could not have failed to be- as disagreeable in their 
way ! All my father's children, thirty-six in number, 
when he died, were by his Sarari, and there was 
consequently no difference between us. 

Bibi (mistress, lady) Azze, who had to be addressed 
as ''Highness" (Sijjide),** was feared by old and 
young, by high and low, and liked by no one. Even 
now I remember her well, and how stiffly she used to 
pass by without a kind word to any one. How 
different was my dear old father ! He talked kindly 
to everybody, no matter what rank the person ad- 
dressed might be. My exalted stepmother knew 
very well how to keep her station, nor did any 
one dare to approach her without her own invitation 
or encouragement. I never saw her walk about 
without a retinue, except when she went with my 
father to the bath-house, which was set apart for 
their special use. All who met her in the house 
were as deferential to her as a recruit to his officer. 

Though her imperiousness was felt very acutely by 

* Bibi is Sualiely ; Sejjide, Arabian, Both words mean "High- 
ness." 



i 



BET IL MTONI. 9 

all, it had not sufficient power to deprive the residents 
at Bet il Mtoni of all charms of life. My brothers 
and sisters, of all ages, were supposed to go every day 
and wish her. good morning; but rarely were her 
vanity and pride gratified by more than one visitor 
at the appointed time — before her breakfast hour — so 
greatly was she disliked by us all. 

My older brothers and sisters lived at Bet il 
Mtoni ; some of them, Schecha and Zuene, for 
instance, were old enough to have been my grand- 
mothers. The latter had a son, Ali bin Suut, whose 
beard had turned grey already when I knew him first ; 
she was a widow, and had found a shelter in her 
paternal home after the death of her husband. 

It is generally believed by Europeans that with us 
the sons are greatly preferred to the daughters ; but 
such was not the case in our family. I know not a 
single instance in which the son was more liked by 
father or mother, merely because he happened to be 
a son. Though the law in some cases favours sons 
more than daughters, and grants them larger privi- 
leges — as, for instance, in the division of inheritances — 
yet the children are everywhere loved and treated 
alike. It is, of course, but natural, and only human, 
that in the South, as well as all over the world, 
one child, whether boy or girl, is secretly more beloved 
by his parents than the other, but this is never shown 
openly. It was thus with our father also; for the 
two of his children he loved best were not sons, but 
daughters, Scharife and Chole. When I was nine 
years old I was once wounded in the side by an 

arrow, by my wild brother Hamdam, who was about 

2 



10 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

my own age ; fortunately the hurt was not a severe 
one. As soon as my father heard of this affair, he 
said to me : "Salme, go and call Hamdam." And the 
boy was so terribly scolded for his misbehaviour, that 
he remembered it for a long time after. This in- 
stance proves how greatly people are often mis- 
informed on foreign matters. It stands to reason 
that a good deal depends everywhere upon the children 
themselves, and it would wrong good children to treat 
them in the same way as bad ones. 

The Bendjle was the prettiest spot at Bet il Mtoni. 
It was an immense round tower in front of the main 
building, and close to the sea, large enough for a 
ball, had such a thing been known in our countiy. 
It looked very much like a gigantic merry-go-round, 
with a vaulted ceiling in the same style as the building. 
The entire framework, the floor, railing, and the tent- 
like ceiling were constructed of painted wood. My 
dear father used to walk up and down in this place 
for hours and hours together, plunged in deep 
thought, and with head bent down. A bullet which 
he received in battle, and had settled in the hip, 
caused him frequent pain, and made him limp a little. 

Some dozens of cane chairs were placed all about 
this lofty balcony, and a large telescope was put up 
for general use. The view from this raised " Bendjle " 
was surpassingly beautiful. Several times during 
the day my father, Azze bint Sef, and all his grown- 
up children would take their coffee here. Any one 
wishing to speak to my father privately would be 
sure of finding him here alone for several hours in 
the day. 



BET IL MTONI. 11 

11 Rahmdni, a man-of-war, was anchored off the 
Bendjle all the year round, whence they fired the signals 
in the fasting season; the crews required for the 
many rowing boats had their quarters there. A tall 
flagstaff was erected on the shore to signal whenever 
these boats and crews were wanted. 

Both at Bet il Mtoni and at Bet il Sahel the meals 
were cooked in the Arab as well as in the Persian and 
Turkish manner. People of all races lived in these 
two houses — the races of various beauty. The slaves 
were dressed in Suahely style, but we were permitted 
to appear in Arab fashion alone. . Any newly-arrived 
Circassian or Abyssinian woman had to exchange her 
ample robes and fantastic attire vdthin three days for 
the Arab costume provided for her. 

Bonnets and gloves are no less indispensable 
articles of toilet to any Western lady or woman of 
respectability than jewellery is to us. Trinkets are 
considered so necessary, that even beggar-women 
may be seen plying their trade decked out in them. 
My father had special treasure chambers in both his 
houses at Zanzibar, and in his palace at Mesket, in 
Oman, amply stocked with sovereigns and gold pieces 
of Spanish and other coinage ; besides these, 
however, they contained large assortments of 
feminine adornments, from the simplest article to the 
diamond- set crown, expressly procured to serve as 
presents. Each time an increase to the family had 
taken place, either by the purchase of a Sarari, or by 
the frequent births of princes or princesses, the 
doors of these chambers were opened, to take out 
presents for the new arrival according to its rank and 



12 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

station. On the seventh day after the birth of a child 
my father used to pay a "visit to the infant and its 
mother to present some article of jewellery to the 
baby. In the same way a new Surie received at once 
the necessary jewels, and had her servants assigned 
to her by the chief eunuch. 

Though himself very simple in all his ways, my 
father w r as very particular about all people around 
him. No one was permitted to appear before him 
except in full dress, and this was the rule with his 
children as well as with the youngest eunuch. The 
little girls used to wear their hair in thin plaits, as 
many as twenty sometimes, w r ith the ends collected 
together, and a heavy gold ornament, set with precious 
stones, suspended from their centre. Sometimes a 
gold coin was attached to each plait, which looked 
much prettier. These ornaments were taken off at 
bedtime, and re-attached in the morning. The girls 
had their hair dressed in this pony fashion up to the 
period when they had to go about veiled. Once I ran 
off to my father without these ornaments in my hair- 
dress, to get some of the French sweetmeats he used 
to give us every morning. Instead of obtaining these, 
however, I was promptly sent back in charge of a 
servant — I had appeared before him not properly 
dressed ; but I took good care never again to commit 
the same offence. 

My sister Zejane and my stepmother Medine w r ere 
my mother's most intimate friends. Zejane was 
the daughter of an Abyssinian ; Medine, a Circassian, 
who came from the same part of the country as my 
mother, like Sara, another stepmother of mine 



BET IL MTONI. 13 

Sara's two children were my brother Madjid and my 
sister Chadudj, of whom the former was the junior by 
some years. My mother and Sara had solemnly 
promised each other, that whoever survived the other 
should replace her with her children. Chadudj and 
Madjid, however, were nearly full-grown when Sara 
died, and they did not need my mother's help as long 
as they lived in their paternal home. It was the 
custom in our family for boys up to the age of eighteen 
or twenty to remain with their mothers in our father's 
house, and to submit to the general house rules. At 
about this stage of life each prince was pronounced 
of age, though this depended entirely upon his 
behaviour. When of age he was numbered amongst 
the gi'own-up people — an honour which was always 
eagerly coveted. A separate residence was then 
assigned to him, together with horses, servants, and 
everything else he required, also an adequate monthly 
allowance. 

My brother Madjid had now obtained this honour, 
more on account of his conduct than of his age. He 
was very modest, and won all hearts by his kind and 
gentle manners. Not a week passed but he rode over 
from the city (he lived at Bet il Sahel with his 
mother) to see us, and he always liked to play with 
me, though he was my senior by twelve years. 

He came over perfectly delighted one day to tell 
my mother that he had just been pronounced of age, 
and that, being his own master now, he had received 
a house of his own. He insisted at the same time 
upon our removing to his new place to live with him, 
and he was joined in this request by Chadudj. My 



1-1 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

mother begged him to consider that she could not 
well accede to his wishes without first consulting my 
father, but promised to inform him of the result as 
soon as she had done so. On her part she declared 
herself willing to live with him as long as it suited 
both himself and his sister. Madjid at once offered 
to save her all trouble by speaking himself to my 
father, and next day, indeed, he informed us that the 
latter had given his consent. Our removal being thus 
settled, it was arranged, after a long consultation, that 
we were to take up our new residence with him in the 
course of a few days, after he had completed all 
necessary arrangements at his place. 



CHAPTER II. 



BET IL WATOEO. 



My mother did not find it easy to reconcile herself to 
the prospect of her impending removal. She was 
very much attached to Bet il Mtoni, where she had 
lived from her childhood; she was not fond of any 
change, and was very much afflicted by the separation 
from Zejane and from my stepmother Medine. She 
told me, however, afterwards that her own scruples 
had been outweighed by the consideration of making 
herself useful to the children of her dear departed 
friend. 

As soon as it became known that she had decided 
to remove to town, every person she met cried out, 
" Have you lost all trust in us, Djilfidan, that you are 
going to leave us for ever ? " " Oh, my friends," she 
replied, " I do not leave you of my own free will, but 
it is my fate to part from you ! " 

I am sure a good many people will shake their 
heads with a feeling of pity on reading the word " fate." 
Maybe such persons have hitherto shut their eyes and 
their ears to the will of God, and have spurned to take 
any notice of it, laying a far greater stress upon what 
they call chance. It should be borne in mind, how- 



16 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

ever, that I once was a Mahometan, and grew up as 
such. I am, moreover, speaking of Arab life, of an 
Arab home, and there are two things above all quite 
unknown in a real Arab house, the word " chance " 
and materialism. The Mahometan not only believes 
in God as his Creator and Preserver, but he is con- 
vinced at all times of His presence, and he feels like- 
wise sure that not his own will, but the will of the 
Lord is done in little things as well as in great. 

It took us some days to complete all our arrange- 
ments, and then we waited for Madjid's return, who was 
to arrange about our journey. I had had one brother 
and two sisters, all nearly of my own age, as com- 
panions at Bet il Mtoni, and I was very sorry to leave 
them, little Ealub in particular, who had been greatly 
attached to me ; on the other hand, I was right glad of 
the opportunity of getting away from our excessively 
severe teacher. 

Our large room looked something like a beehive 
during the parting scenes with so many friends and 
acquaintances ; everybody brought a parting gift in 
proportion to his means and affection. This is a cus- 
tom very much in use with us, for no Arab will deny 
himself the pleasure of presenting a parting gift to his 
friend, even if hehas nothing to givebut the merest trifle. 
I remember a case in point which occurred in my early 
youth. We had made an excursion from Bet il Mtoni 
to one of our estates, and were just about to step into 
our boats to return home, when I felt some one tugging 
at my dress from behind. Turning round, I saw a 
very old negro woman, who handed me a parcel, 
wrapped in plantain leaves, with the words, " This 



BET IL WATORO. 17 

trifle is my parting gift to you, bibijangu (my mis- 
tress), it is the first ripe fruit of my garden." Undoing 
the leaves, I found they enclosed — one cob of newly- 
gathered Indian corn. I did not know the poor old 
woman at all, but afterwards she proved to have been 
an old protegee of my mother's. 

Madjid arrived at last with the news that the cap- 
tain of the Rahmdni had been ordered to send a 
cutter for us next evening, and another boat for our 
luggage and for the servants who were to accompany 
us to the city. 

My father happened to be at Bet il Mtoni at the 
time, and next day my mother went up with me to bid 
him good-bye. We found him walking up and down 
the Bendjle as usual, and he came at once to meet us 
as soon as he saw us. My parents began talking at 
once about our journey, and, to stop the many questions 
with which I continually interrupted them, one of the 
attending eunuchs was ordered to bring me sweets and 
sherbet. I was of course very curious to know some- 
thing about our new home and about life in town. I 
had only once been there for a very short time, and 
had not even seen all my brothers and sisters, nor my 
numerous stepmothers who lived there. 

We then went to the apartments of my august step- 
mother to take leave of her. Azze bint Sef was 
graciously pleased to dismiss us standing, which with 
her was a great honour, as she always remained 
seated when she received people. We were also per- 
mitted to kiss her hand before turning our back upon 
her for ever. 

We had still to run up and downstairs a good many 



18 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

times to shake bands with all our friends, of whom, 
however, we met but few in their rooms. My mother 
resolved, therefore, to say good-bye to them after 
prayers, which all had to attend. 

The cutter lay off the Bendjle ready to receive us 
at 7 p.m. ; it was a fine big boat with a crew of 
fourteen oarsmen, with an awning over the stern, 
carrying our standard — a plain, blood-red flag. The 
passenger seats were covered with pretty silk cushions 
for ten to twelve persons. 

Old Djohar, a trusty eunuch, came to report every- 
thing ready to my father, who was watching our 
departure from the Bendjle, and took the helm ; he 
was to convey us to our new destination in company 
with another eunuch. All our friends in tears accom- 
panied us as far as the house door, and their cries, 
" Wecla, wecla " (farewell, farewell), ring in my ears to 
this very day. 

There was no landing pier on the flat shore, and we 
had to get into the boat either by being carried in a 
chair or by walking through the dry sand and over a 
plank ; my mother got into the cutter in this manner, 
attended on both sides by some eunuchs, while another 
carried me in his arms and placed me in the stern 
sheets. The light of the coloured hanging-lanterns in 
the boat, together with the glittering stars above, cast 
a magic brightness over the sea, and the oarsmen 
pulled away, keeping time by the tune of a melan- 
choly Arab song. 

We kept close in shore, and I was soon fast asleep 
in my mother's lap* I was suddenly and rather 
roughly roused up by a number of persons calling out 



BET IL WATORO. 19 

my name ; very much frightened and half asleep yet, 
I learned that we had arrived at our journey's end. 
We were just below the lighted-up windows of Bet il 
Sahel, which were occupied by crowds of people — they 
were my stepmothers and sisters with their mothers, 
most of whom I had never seen before, and who were 
curious to have a look at me. My mother told me 
they had commenced crying but my name as soon as 
the boat had come in sight. 

On landiug, I w 7 as received by my young brothers 
in a very lively manner. They wanted us to go with 
them at once, but my mother had to decline, as she 
did not wish to keep Chadudj waiting, who was 
watching our arrival from her house. I was very sorry 
that I was not allowed to join my young relations at 
once, but my mother remained firm, and I w r as con- 
soled by the promise that w r e were to spend a day at 
Bet il Sahel as soon as my father had returned to it. 

We therefore passed on to get to Madjid's residence, 
Bet il Watoro, which was close by, and from which 
there w r as also a splendid view over the sea. Chadudj 
received us at the bottom of the staircase and bid us 
heartily w r elcome : she conducted us to our rooms, and 
her chief eunuch, Ernan, brought in some refresh- 
ments. Madjid was below in his reception room with 
his friends, waiting for permission to come up and 
join us. How delighted he was, good, noble fellow, to 
welcome us in his new home ! 

Our own room was of but middling size, and looked 
out on the mosque close by. It was furnished like all 
Arab apartments, and there was nothing wanting to 
our comfort. As the dresses worn by day are not 



20 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

taken off at night, and all Arabs of standing are 
accustomed to the strictest cleanliness, there is no 
need for separate bedrooms, and the room allotted to 
us quite sufficed for our wants. 

Kich and distinguished people generally furnish 
their houses in the following style : Persian carpets 
or very fine and soft matting cover the floors ; the 
thick, whitewashed walls are divided from floor to 
ceiling into several partitions by deep recesses ; these 
recesses are again subdivided by shelves of wood, 
painted green, forming a kind of open cabinet. Upon 
these shelves are symmetrically ranged the choicest 
and most expensive objects of glass and china. To 
an Arab nothing can be too costly to decorate these 
shelves ; a handsome cut glass, a plate beautifully 
painted, or an elegant and tasteful jug, may cost any 
price ; if they look pretty they are sure to be pur- 
chased. 

The bare and narrow walls between the recesses are 
carefully concealed by large mirrors reaching from 
the low divans to the ceiling ; these mirrors are gene- 
rally expressly ordered from Europe. As a rule, 
pictures are prohibited to a Mahometan as imitations 
of Divine creation : of late, however, they are tolerated 
now and then. Clocks, again, are in great favour 
everywhere, and some houses contain quite a rich 
collection of them; they are placed above and in 
pairs on each side of the mirrors. The walls of the 
gentlemen's rooms are decorated with costly weapons 
from Arabia, Persia, and Turkey, and this is done by 
every Arab according to his means. 
, A large curtained bed of rosewood, of Indian work- 



BET IL WAT0R0. 21 

manship, very prettily carved all over, is placed in 
one corner of the room. Arab beds are very high, 
and to get into them it is necessary to mount upon a 
chair or to call in the assistance of a chambermaid. 
The empty space beneath is often occupied by the 
children's or sick nurse. 

Tables are rarely seen, and only in the houses of 
people of high station, but there are chairs of all 
kinds and colours. Wardrobes, chests of drawers, 
and the like are not in use ; we had, however, a chest 
or trunk with two or three drawers, and a secret 
drawer to put away money and -jewellery. 

Windows and doors stand open all the year during 
the day ; they are only shut for a short time daring 
the rainy season. In our country we do not at all 
understand what " draught " means. 

At first I did not like our new residence at all ; I 
missed my^ young brothers and sisters very much, and 
Bet il Watoro appeared to me very small compared to 
gigantic Bet il Mtoni. I was by no means pleased 
that I was to stay here for ever. I could not sail my 
boats here, unless I chose to do so in a washtub, as 
there was no river near, and' all water had to be 
fetched from a well outside the house. My dear 
mother, whose greatest pleasure was to give away all 
she possessed, wanted me to send my beautiful sail- 
ing boats to my brothers at Bet il Mtoni, but I could 
not make up my mind to do that at once. For the 
first time in my life I felt indeed very unhappy and 
downcast. 

My mother, on the other hand, soon reconciled her- 
self to her new duties, and was so busily engaged all 



22 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

day in directing and arranging things in company 
with Chadudj, that she did not even find time to look 
after me. Dear Madjid alone took some trouble about 
me, and showed me over the house from top to 
bottom ; but nothing could please me, I was per- 
fectly indifferent to everything, and I urged my 
mother incessantly to return at once to Bet il Mtoni 
and to my dear relations there. This could not be 
done, of course, and the less so as she really proved a 
great help to my brother and sister. 

Fortunately I soon discovered Madjid to be a great- 
friend of all kinds of live beasts, of which he had quite 
a collection, amongst others any number of white 
rabbits, which spoiled the new house completely, 
much to the annoyance of my mother and sister. 
He also kept a great many fighting cocks of all 
countries ; I have never again seen such a fine col- 
lection together, not even in zoological gardens. 

I was soon his constant companion on his visit to his 
favourites, and he was kind enough to let me share in 
all his amusements. Before long I owned a number 
of fighting cocks myself, and I felt not quite so lonely 
now at Bet il Watoro. We inspected our champions 
nearly every day, which were led up and down by 
servants. A cockfight is, indeed, by no means an un- 
interesting affair — it is very entertaining, as it takes 
up the entire attention of the spectator, and often it 
is intensely amusing. 

Afterwards he gave me fencing lessons with swords, 
daggers, and lances, and taught me to practise with 
gun and pistol when we went into the country. In 
fact he made quite an amazon of me, greatly to the 



BET IL WATOItO. 23 

distress of my dear mother, who declined to learn 
anything about fencing and shooting. All this, of 
course, did not improve my taste for fancy needle- 
work, and I preferred much to handle all kinds of 
weapons to sitting quietly at the bobbin-machine for 
hours together. > 

The perfect liberty I enjoyed in all these pastimes — 
for as yet a new teacher had not been found for me 
— made me soon feel in better spirits, and my objec- 
tion to lonely Bet il Watoro soon vanished. Nor did 
I neglect riding, and, by Madjid's orders, Mesrur the 
eunuch improved me in horsemanship. 

My mother being too busily employed in the house 
to have much spare time for me, I got soon attached 
to a clever Abyssinian woman, who grew very fond of 
me, and who taught me her language; but I have long 
since forgotten all I learned from her. 

A lively intercourse was kept up with Bet il Mtoni, 
and whenever we went there we were alwaj's received 
most affectionately by all our friends. The communi- 
cation between the two places was kept up by slaves 
carrying verbal messages to and fro. Eastern people 
are not very fond of letter- writing, even when able to 
write. Every person of note or wealth keeps some 
slaves who are employed as runners only. They must 
travel a certain number of miles daily, but they are 
well treated otherwise, and special care is taken of 
them. They are trusted with the most confidential 
messages. Upon their honesty and secrecy depends 
frequently their master's welfare, and even more ! It 
is by no means a rare occurrence that the most inti- 
mate relations between people have been severed and 



24 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

destroyed for ever by an act of vengeance on the part 
of these messengers. In spite of this great drawback, 
people cannot be induced to learn to write, and. to 
make themselves independent for life. The saying, 
"Leave the world to take its course," is nowhere more 
true than with us. 

My sister Chadudj was very fond of society. Hardly 
a day passed without any number of visitors being in 
the house from six o'clock in the morning till mid- 
night. Those who arrived very early were received 
by the servants, and conducted to a room, where they 
could rest until eight or nine o'clock, when they were 
welcomed by the lady of the house. Later on I shall 
have occasion to say more of these ladies' visits in a 
separate chapter. 

I did not at all succeed in being on the same 
friendly terms with Chadudj as I was with Madjid. 
She was rather forbidding, and I never got to love her 
fondly. There was too great a contrast between good, 
noble Madjid and her. Nor was I the only one who 
was of this opinion. Everybody who became more 
intimately acquainted with them soon found out who 
of the two was the more amiable. Above all, she 
could be very cold to strangers, and ungracious, and 
on this account she had many enemies. She had the 
greatest dislike to all novel and foreign things, and 
nothing annoyed her more than the call of a European 
lady, though it never lasted above half or three- 
quarters of an hour. 

In other respects she was very circumspect and of 
a practical turn, considering her station; she was 
never idle, and when she had nothing else to do she 



BET IL WATOEO. 25 

sewed and embroidered dresses for the children of her 
married slaves as assiduously as the fine shirts for 
her brother. Among these children there were three 
very pretty boys, whose father was superintendent of 
buildings in our service. These boys were called 
Selim, Abdallah, and Tani, and, being only a few years 
younger than myself, they soon became my daily com- 
panions, as I had no others of my own age in the 
place, till I went over more frequently to my brothers 
and sisters at Bet il Sahel. 



CHAPTER III. 



A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 



The long-looked for day at- last arrived on which I 
was to pay a visit to Bet il Sahel with my mother and 
Chadudj from early morn till night. It was on a 
Friday, the Mahometan Sabbath, that we left our house 
as early as half-past five, wrapped in our big black 
shawls with gold borders (called Scheie). We had 
not far to go, only some one hundred paces, to get to 
our destination. 

The faithful but rather cross old gatekeeper did 
not receive us in an over friendly manner. More 
crossly even than was his wont, he told us that he 
had been on his feeble legs for the last hour admitting 
lady visitors. Said il Nubi, as the crusty old fellow 
was called, was a Nubian slave of my father's, whose 
beard — I cannot express myself otherwise, as the 
Arabs .wear their heads shaved bare — had grown 
white in long and loyal service. My father thought 
much of him, as Said had once stayed his master's 
hand in a moment of great though righteous wrath 
from committing an act of rashness, which he would 
have deeply regretted all his life. 

The little ones, however, did not know much about 



A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 27 

Said at the time, and it gave us great pleasure to play 
all sorts of tricks upon the crotchety old fellow. Our 
designs were chiefly directed against his enormous 
keys, and I believe there was not a spot in all Bet il 
Sahel where they had not, at one time or another, 
been hidden. My brother Djemschid above all 
showed great skill in making them disappear so com- 
pletely, that even we could not find out their hiding- 
place. 

We found the people occupying the first floor all 
astir already ; only those who were still engaged in 
their morning devotions remained as yet invisible. 
Nobody would have dared to disturb them, even if the 
house had been on fire. We had chosen this day 
because my father happened to be there, and the 
same reason had caused many others to come too. 

Nor were all the ladies who arrived friends or 
acquaintances of ours — many, indeed, were perfect 
strangers to all of us. Most of them had come from 
Oman, our native country, and on purpose only to 
obtain some pecuniary aid from my father, which was 
rarely denied them. Oman and our kinsfolk there 
are very poor, and our own prosperity dates from the 
time of my father's conquest and occupation of 
Zanzibar. 

Women are as a rule forbidden by law to speak to a 
strange man. There is, however, an exception to this 
in two cases : they may appear before their sovereign 
and before a judge. As hardly any of these visitors in 
question were able to write or send a petition, there 
was nothing left for them but to undertake the short 
voyage from Asia to Africa, and to prefer their 



28 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

request in person. All of them received presents 
according to their position and rank freely, and with- 
out the numerous questions that a poor applicant in 
Europe is usually subjected to. It is taken for 
granted in our country that no respectable person 
will ask for assistance merely for the sake of begging, 
and this view proves correct in most cases. 

I was most affectionately received by all my 
brothers and sisters, especially by my dearly beloved 
and never-to-be-forgotten sister Chole. Hitherto my 
mother had been the only one whom I really and 
fondly loved, but I now began to adore this " light of 
our house " from my very soul. She was my only 
ideal soon, as she had been our father's favourite 
child before, and she deserved, indeed, to be admired 
by all. She was admitted to be a girl of. rare beauty 
by all who were unprejudiced and without envy. No 
one can remain quite insensible to beauty — it was so 
with her in our house, as there was, indeed, no one to 
equal her in our whole family, and the fame of her 
beauty had spread far and wide. Fine eyes are very 
common in the East, but hers were so eminently 
beautiful, that she got the name, Nidjm il subh, or 
" Morning Star."/ An Arab chief, taking part on a 
certain feast day in the popular game of sham fight- 
ing in front of our house, was observed with his looks 
fixed upon a certain window, quite unconscious of the 
blood which gushed from his wounded foot, and of the 
pain this wound must have caused him. It was my 
sister Chole whom he had seen at the window by 
chance ; her beauty had so overwhelmed him that he 
accidentally pierced his foot with his iron-pointed 



A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 29 

lance, and wounded himself without so much as 
noticing it, until one of my brothers drew his atten- 
tion to the fact. For years after poor innocent 
Chole was teased by my brothers about this affair. 

Bet il Sahel, which is a good deal smaller than 
Bet il Mtoni, lies also close upon the seashore ; it is a 
bright and cheerful-looking place, and a very pleasant 
house to live in. 

There is a splendid view of the sea and the shipping 
from all its windows, which delighted me much. The 
doors on the upper floor, which contains many rooms, 
open upon a long and wide gallery of ouch grandness 
as I have never seen equalled. The ceiling is sup- 
ported by pillars reaching down to the ground, and 
these pillars are connected by a high parapet, along 
which chairs are placed. A great many coloured 
lamps, suspended from the ceiling, throw a magic 
glow over the whole house after dark. 

The gallery looks down upon a courtyard, always 
full of bustle and noise ; I have sometimes been 
reminded of all this in after years by market scenes 
on the stage, reproducing something like a picture of 
it on a small scale. 

Two large separate flights of stairs lead from this 
court to the rooms on the first floor. Crowds of 
people are continually going up and down these stairs, 
and the crowding is often so great that it takes some 
minutes before one can get to the staircase at all. 

One corner of the courtyard is taken up by the 
slaughter-house, according to the Eastern custom of 
killing one's own meat. In another spot negroes 
have their heads shaved ; tired- out water-carriers 



30 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

stretch themselves rather lazily on the ground, heed- 
less to all calls for water, until they are uncere- 
moniously roused and reminded of their duty hy one 
of the eunuchs ; generally they do not wait for the 
approach of those taskmasters, but get up and run 
off with their big " Mtungi " (water jars), amid the 
jeerings of the bystanders. Not far off a dozen or so 
of nursemaids sit basking in the sun with their little 
charges, telling them thrilling stories and fairy tales. 

The kitchen is put up in the open, near one of the 
ground-floor pillars; the numberless cooks quarrel 
and fight continually, until one of the head cooks 
steps in, dealing blows right and left, and restoring 
order for a time. The quantities of meat boiled here 
are enormous, the beasts being always cooked whole. 
Fish of so large a size was often brought, as had to 
be carried by two negroes ; smaller ones were only 
bought by basketsfull, and poultry by the dozen. Flour, 
rice, and sugar w r ere counted by bags, and butter, im- 
ported in a liquid state from the Isle of Socotra, by 
jars of about a hundredweight each. Spices alone 
were taken by the pound (ratti). 

The quantities of fruit consumed were still more 
enormous. Thirty to forty porters, and sometimes 
as many as fifty, came in daily laden with fruit, not to 
count the small boats arriving from the seashore 
plantations. I should not overestimate the daily 
supply of fresh fruit at Bet il Sahel, in putting it 
down as equal to the load of a large railway truck. 
During the mango season (embe) more than double 
this quantity was consumed every day. Great care- 
lessness prevailed in the conveyance of the fruit, and 



A. DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 31 

large quantities were made quite unfit for use owing 
to the manner in which the baskets were treated and 
flung on the ground by the slaves. 

A wall, about six feet deep, ran along the shore to 
protect the house against the sea, with a grove of very 
fine pomegranates behind. Several of the best horses 
were brought out every morning from the stables, and 
fastened to this wall with long ropes, to roam about 
and wade in the soft sand at low tide. My father took 
great delight in his thoroughbreds from Oman; he 
inspected them daily, and himself tended tbem when 
they were sick. It is well known how tenderly 
attached an Arab is to his favourite horse. My 
brother Madjid had a splendid brown mare, and he 
ardently wished to obtain a foal from her. This wish 
was at last fulfilled, and when "il Kehle," the mare, 
was about to foal, he ordered his head groom to call 
him, be it night or daytime. We were actually roused 
from our sleep one morning, between two and three 
o'clock, and informed that the happy event had taken 
place. The groom who had brought the glad news 
received a reward of fifty dollars from his happy 
master. This is by no means a single instance ; the 
attachment to horses in Arabia proper is said to be 
carried still farther. 

After prayers we went to see my father in his apart- 
ments. Fond of joking as he always was, he turned 
to me after a while, saying : " Well now, Salme, how 
do you like this place ? Would you like to return to 
Bet il Mtoni ? And don't they forget here to give you 
your — milk soup ? " 

About ten o'clock all my elder brothers came in 



32 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

from their houses to breakfast with my father. Besides 
us, his children and grandchildren, who were admitted 
after the age of seven, no one but his legitimate wife, 
Azze bint Sef, and his sister Asche sat down at his 
table. No Surie was ever permitted to take meals 
with him, however high she might stand in his favour. 
Social distinction in the East never shows itself more 
than at meals ; guests are on the most friendly and 
intimate footing with their hosts — often more so than 
would be the case in Europe — but at meal-time this 
equality ceases, and the strictest observance of rank 
is adhered to by common consent. Even the Sarari 
have established a division of rank among themselves. 
The handsome Circassians, well aware of their better 
breeding, decline to break bread with the coffee- coloured 
Abyssinians : thus by tacit understanding they dine 
apart. I have already mentioned that among us 
children no distinction of colour was made. 

It soon struck me that the occupants of Bet il Sahel 
seemed much happier and more cheerful than those 
of Bet il Mtoni, and I began to understand the reason 
of this afterwards. In this latter place Azze bint 
Sef ruled supreme ; she ruled over husband, step- 
children, and their mothers — in short, over every one 
and everything within her reach, while at Bet il Sahel 
all, my father not excepted, were more free and at 
liberty to do as they liked ; there was no one here to 
give orders but my dear and gentle father. I think 
he was himself so conscious of the great difference 
between the two houses, that for years he had not sent 
any one to live at Bet il Mtoni, except by desire, 
although there was plenty of room to spare in the 



A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 33 

palace, while Bet il Sahel was always overcrowded. 
This state grew so bad at last that he conceived the 
happy thought of building wooden pavilions on the 
large gallery aforementioned. Finally, however, 
another house was built on the shore some miles to 
the north of Bet il Sahel, to serve as residence to the 
younger generation, which was called Bet il Bas 
(Strandhouse). 

A painter would have fouud many models for a 
picture in our gallery, for a more variegated company 
could not easily be met with. The faces of the people 
showed eight to ten different shades of complexion at 
least ; and it would, indeed, have puzzled even a clever 
artist to make out the many-tinted garments w r orn. 
The noise was truly appalling — quarrelling or romping 
children in every corner — loud voices and clapping 
hands summoning servants, the Eastern equivalent for 
ringing a bell — the rattle and clatter of the women's 
wooden sandals (Kabakib) — all combined in producing 
the most distracting din. 

Our chief amusement was listening to the babel of 
languages spoken in our midst. Arabic was the only 
lauguage really sanctioned in my father's presence. 
But as soon as he turned his back, a truly Babylonian 
confusion of tongues commenced, and Arabian, Per- 
sian, Turkish, Circassian, Swahely, Nubian, and 
Abyssinian were spoken and mixed up together, not 
to mention the various dialects of these tongues. This 
excitement seemed, however, to disturb no one, and 
only sick people complained of it sometimes. My 
father, too, had got quite accustomed to it, and never 
interposed. 



34 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

All my grown-up sisters presented themselves in 
festive array on this day, partly because it was our 
Sunday, and in honour of our father's presence. Our 
mothers walked about or stood together in groups, 
talking, laughing, and jesting with each other so 
amicably that a stranger, unaware of the fact, would 
never have guessed them to be the wives of one man. 
The clashing of arms on the staircase announced the 
arrival of my numerous brothers and their sons, most 
of whom intended to stay with us all day. 

Things were kept up at Bet il Sahel in a much more 
sumptuous and extravagant style than at Bet il Mtoni, 
and I met there a far greater number of handsome 
and pretty faces than at the latter place, where my 
mother and her friend Medine had been the only 
Circassian women. But the majority were here Cir- 
cassians, who beyond a question are more distinguished 
in outward appearance than Abyssinians, though even 
amongst the latter great beauties are to be found. 
This natural superiority was the cause of a good deal 
of ill-will and envy, and one beautiful Circassian in 
particular was treated coldly, and even hated by the 
Abyssinian women on account of her beauty*. 

It cannot be a matter of surprise that under these 
circumstances a kind of ridiculous " hatred of race " 
had broken out among my brothers and sisters. In 
spite of many good qualities ' they have, Abyssinian 
women are almost always of a spiteful and vindictive 
disposition, for, their passions once roused, they know 
no bounds or decency. We, that is, the children of 
Circassian mothers, were generally called "cats" by 
those who had Abj^ssinian blood in their veins, merely 



A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 35 

because some of us were the unfortunate possessors 
of blue eyes and a fair complexion, for which they 
nicknamed us " Highness." My father was never for- 
given the fact that he had chosen his two favourite 
children, Scharife and Chole — both by Circassian 
mothers, the former even blue- eyed — from the hate- 
ful "race of cats." 

At Bet il Mtoni we had always led a kind of monastic 
life under the rigid rule of Azze bint Sef, whilst Bet 
il Watoro was still more lonely and dull. I was 
therefore well pleased to join in the merry doings of 
Bet il Sahel, and soon made friends with the brothers 
and sisters, and two of my nieces, of my own age, 
Schembua and Farschu, the only children of my 
brother Chalid. They came to Bet il Sahel from their 
own house every morning, and went back in the evening 
and took part in the lessons and games of their uncles 
and aunts. Chalid's mother, Churschit, was a Cir- 
cassian, and quite an exceptional woman. She was 
uncommonly tall, and possessed a great strength of 
will combined with a high degree of common sense ; 
I have never met any woman like her in all my life. 
Later on, and during the time that Chalid represented 
my father in his absence, it was said that it was she 
who actually governed the country, and that her son 
was only her tool. Her advice and counsel in all 
. matters concerning our family was considered quite 
indispensable, and much depended always upon the 
decision she came to. She took in at a glance as much 
as if she had owned the hundred eyes of an argus, and 
on all momentous occasions gave proof of a wisdom 
and sagacity truly Solomonic. She was not, however, 



36 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

very much liked by the little folks, and we rather 
avoided coming near her if we could help it. 

When about to return to Bet il Watoro in the 
evening, I was rather dismayed on hearing my father 
tell my mother that I was still to go on with my 
lessons, i.e., reading; and upon her telling him that 
as yet no other teacher had been found, he decided 
that I was to come to Bet il Sahel, and return home 
every night, like my nieces, so as to take part in the 
general Jessons there. I was not very much pleased 
when I heard this ; lessons- had never attracted me, 
the less so as my last teacher had inspired me with a 
thorough dislike to all learning. I got soon reconciled, 
however, to the new arrangement in consideration for 
the companionship of my brothers and sisters, on all 
days except Fridays, and my charming sister Choie 
promising my mother to watch over me. She kept 
her promise faithfully, quite taking the place of a 
mother. 

My own dear mother was very much downcast at 
my father's decree, which took me away from her six 
days in the week, but there was no help for it ; she 
made me promise, however, to show myself several 
times a day at a certain place, from which she could 
see and nod to me in the distance. 






CLTAPTER IV. 

OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATOHO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 

All I can say here of my new teacher is, that I shall 
always remain deeply grateful to God for having given 
me such a faithful friend in youth. She was very 
strict, but also very just. I was often quite alone 
with her, as her other pupils did not much care to 
enter her darkened sick chamber, and preferred to 
keep out of her reach instead, taking advantage of 
her helpless state. I could not, however, bear to hear 
her ask for me, and leave her alone in her sufferings. 
She was highly pleased at my obedience, it is true, 
but my refractory brothers and sisters not only 
laughed at me for my pains, but often cuffed me. 

In course of time I liked Bet il Sahel very much, 
for there was plenty of room for roaming about, and 
we played any number of foolish pranks, which were 
not left without punishment when found out ; but I 
had generally the best of it on such occasions, as 
Chole was too tender-hearted to punish me as I 
deserved. 

We had some splendid peacocks at the house, one 
of them was rather savage, and could not bear the 
sight of children. One day, when we were walking 



38 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

round the cupola of the Turkish bath, which was 
connected by a suspension bridge with Bet il Sahel 
and Bet il Tani, this peacock suddenly and furiously 
darted at my brother Djemschid. We threw our- 
selves on the beast, and conquered it at last, not 
feeling inclined, however, to set it free without punish- 
ment. We resolved upon a very cruel revenge, viz. 
depriving the animal of its magnificent plumage ; 
and miserable enough the pugnacious bird looked 
after this. My father was fortunately absent at the 
time, and when he returned the affair was hushed 
up. 

Two Circassian women had arrived from Egypt, 
and after a time it appeared to us as if one of them 
was rather haughty and indifferent to us. We were 
rather galled at this, and put our heads together to 
find out a punishment equal to the offence ; but we 
found it very difficult since we rarely had the oppor- 
tunity of seeing or meeting her. She was only a few 
years older than ourselves, and therefore the affront 
was the greater. With this grievance in our minds, 
we were once passing her apartment, the door of 
which stood open as usual. The poor thiug was 
seated at the time on a very light Suahely bed, which 
consists of four posts only held together by ropes and 
a mat, merrily singing one of her pretty national 
songs. On this occasion my sister Schewane was 
our leader ; a sign from her sufficed to make us at 
once understand what she proposed to do. In a 
trice we took hold of the connecting ropes, and, 
pulling all together, we hoisted the matting upon 
which she was sitting, and dropped the frightened 



OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 39 

girl down again with a jerk. It was a very childish 
trick indeed, but a success in so far as it cured her 
effect ually of her indifference to us — this was all we 
had wanted. 

Being full of mischief, I used to play tricks quite 
by myself- sometimes, and soon after our removal to 
Bet ii Watoro I once nearly broke my neck. We had 
gone on a visit to one of our plantations. One 
morning I managed to escape from my attendants, 
and climbed up a high palm-tree as nimbly as a cat, 
without using the pingu, a thick rope to keep the feet 
together, and without which the most skilled climber 
cannot be prevailed upon to ascend a cocoa-tree. 
When about half-way up the tree, I began calling 
out to the people unconsciously passing below, and 
wishing them good morning. 

What a fright I caused them all ! A crowd col- 
lected, begging and entreating me to get down. It 
was impossible to send any one up to help me. In 
climbing a cocoa-tree both hands must be free, and 
therefore the encumbrance of a child of eight would 
render the feat an impossible one. I was, however, 
quite pleased to remain where I was, and only made 
up my mind to slip down when my mother, who was 
standing below, wringing her hands in despair, had 
promised me all kinds of delightful things. Every- 
body spoiled me that day, and loaded me with 
presents on account of my lucky escape, instead of 
soundly thrashing me as I deserved. 

Such and similar pranks we played daily, and no 
punishment could deter us from a new one. We 
seven— three boys and four girls— turned the whole 



40 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

house topsy-turvy, and caused no small annoyance to 
our mothers. 

Sometimes my dear mother kept me at home on a 
week-day, and this was always an opportunity for 
Madjid to spoil me thoroughly. On one of these 
days he greatly frightened us. He frequently suffered 
from severe spasms, and for this reason he was hardly 
ever left without an attendant to render immediate 
assistance. When he was in his bath-room, my 
mother and Chadudj watched alternately at the door, 
not trusting the slaves, and spoke to him from time 
to time, and he used to tell them jokingly that he 
was still alive. While Chadudj was thus walking up 
and down one day at his door, she suddenly heard 
the sound of a heavy fall in the room, and when she 
rushed in frightened to death, she found her beloved 
brother on the raised platform convulsed by a terrible 
attack, the worst he had ever had. A messenger on 
horseback was at once despatched to Bet il Mtoni to 
fetch my father. 

In all cases of sickness and disease we are un- 
fortunately exposed to the most ignorant quacks and 
mountebanks, and now that I have come to know 
and to appreciate the natural and reasonable means 
employed by medical men in Europe, I am induced 
to think that in the majority of cases our dead have 
not succumbed to their disease, but have been sacri- 
ficed to the barbarous treatment to which they were 
subjected. I am sure we could not have borne the many 
cases of death in our family, and among our friends 
so resignedly, without being sustained by the firm 
and irrefutable belief in our " destiny." 



OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATOItO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 41 

For many hours poor Madjid was lying on his 
bed perfectly senseless and in convulsions, inhaling 
all the time an atmosphere unwholesome even to any 
person in good health. For in spite of our predi- 
lection for fresh and pure air, the patients in our 
parts are hermetically shut out from the fresh air, 
but especially so when, as in the present instance, 
the evil one himself is supposed to have a hand in 
it, for then the sickroom and the whole house are 
thoroughly fumigated. 

To the great surprise of everybody, my dear father 
arrived an hour afterwards in a- mtumbi, a small 
fishing-boat holding only one person, and hurried into 
the house. The old man was deeply affected by the 
illness of this son, he who had more than forty children 
alive at the time. The tears ran down into his beard 
as he stood at Madjid's sick bed. " Lord ! 
Lord ! preserve the life of my son ! H was his incessant 
prayer. And God granted his prayer, for Madjid was 
spared to us. 

My mother afterwards asked him why he had come 
in such a miserable vessel. " When the messenger 
brought the news," he replied " there was not a single 
boat on shore ; it would have had to be signalled for, and 
I had no time to wait. It would also have taken too 
long to have a horse saddled. At that very moment 
I saw a fisherman pass the Bendjle in his mtumbi, so 
I seized my weapons, called to him to stop and to get 
out, and jumped into the boat to pull here by myself." 
I may mention here that a mtumbi is a most primi- 
tive kind of boat, made of the hollowed-out trunk of 
a tree, and holds hardly more than one person, who 



42 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

has to paddle it along. It is narrow, pointed, and 
comparatively short, in shape somewhat like a whale- 
boat. 

It may be thought strange, according to Western 
views, that a father so uneasy about the life of his 
child, and who sets aside all regards of etiquette in 
his anxiety, should find time to think of his weapons. 
Here, also, the saying comes true : " So many 
countries, so many customs." Incomprehensible as 
this great attachment which the Arab has for his 
weapons may appear to a European, so incredible 
are to us some of the Northern habits, as that of 
excessive drinking in this country, for instance. I 
continued to go to school daily at Bet il Sahel, and 
returned at night to my mother at Bet il Watoro. 
When I had succeeded in learning by heart about 
the third part of the Kuran, at the age of nine, I was 
considered too old for school, and after this only went 
to Bet il Sahel with my mother and Chadudj on 
Fridays to see my father. 



CHAPTER V. 

REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI. 

We lived quietly and peacefully at Bet il Watoro for 
about two years. Unfortunately good times never 
last long, and events often arise which have been 
least foreseen or expected, as it was in our case. Nor 
is it possible to fancy a creature more lovable and of 
more gentle disposition than the one who unwittingly 
disturbed the tranquillity of our domestic life. Asche, 
a distant relation of ours, had only lately arrived at 
Zanzibar from our native country, Oman, and shortly 
after she became Madjid's wife. All of us liked her 
very much, and rejoiced at the happiness and good 
fortune of our brother, all except his own sister 
Chadudj. It grieves me much to have to admit that, 
from beginning to end, Chadudj greatly wronged 
Asche. The latter was a truly charming person, and 
still very young ; but, instead of instructing and train- 
ing her to her new station as she ought to have done, 
Chadudj behaved to her in a most unsisterly fashion. 
She was the mistress of the house by right of her 
marriage, but, disregarding this, Chadudj ruled over 
her so tyranically, that poor, gentle Asche frequently 
came to my mother in tears, complaining of her 
troubles. 



44 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

My mother now found herself, as it were, placed 
between two fires, and her position became more and 
more embarrassing. Chadudj could not be prevailed 
upon to give up any of her pretended rights, bat con- 
tinued to treat Asche as a child. My mother tried to 
impress Chadudj with a sense of Asche's position as 
Madjid's wife, and begged her to avoid, for Madjid's 
sake, all that might vex or cause him annoyance. It 
was all to no purpose, and her life at Bet il Watoro, 
once so agreeable and happy, grew gradually unbear- 
able. So at last my mother decided to quit the 
house which was so dear to her rather than be a 
witness any longer to the continual discord. 

But Madjid and his wife would not listen to this — 
Asche in particular, who never called my mother 
otherwise than Umma (" mamma "), was quite incon- 
solable. Chadudj, on the other hand, remained per- 
fectly indifferent, and this only confirmed my mother 
still more in the resolve she had taken. 

Asche herself could stand the life no longer. She 
therefore sued for and obtained a divorce from Madjid. 
But after this sad experience of her young life, her 
heart turned against Zanzibar and its inhabitants ; 
therefore, as soon as the favourable south wind set in, 
which our ships had been waiting for, she came to 
bid us good-bye. Being an orphan, she purposed 
returning to an old aunt of hers in Oman, who lived 
somewhere in the neighbourhood of Mesket. 

Our exodus from Bet il Watoro had already been 
effected previous to this event, and we had taken up 
our residence at Bet il Tani. My sister Chole was 
greatly pleased with this, as we now lived quite close 



REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI. 45 

to her, and nearly in the same place, where she had 
taken the trouble to select and arrange our new 
quarters. 

It was really a difficult matter to obtain rooms in 
our houses, and for this reason it had gradually be- 
come a custom to give a kind of reversionary promise 
on the death of persons in possession, as is done in 
the case of charitable institutions in Europe. Some- 
times it was indeed revolting to see how people would 
carefully watch the slightest attack of coughing, or 
other alarming symptoms in their neighbours, and 
mentally disposing of the coveted rooms. All this was 
very wicked, and mainly the consequence of our over- 
crowded condition. It was due to Chole's inter- 
cession that we obtained large and handsome 
apartments, without the unpleasant consciousness of 
being usurpers. 

We saw but little of Chadudj now; she was offended 
at our removal, and reproached my mother very un- 
justly with want of affection. The latter had, how- 
ever, too strong a sense of justice as to suffer quietly 
such unfair treatment of a defenceless and inexpe- 
rienced woman, whose only offence had been that she 
had dared to become Madjid's wife. My brother, on 
the other hand, came to see us frequently, and he 
remained the dear and true friend he had always 
been. 

Bet il Tani lies quite close to Bet il Sahel, and is 
connected, as previously mentioned, with the latter by 
a suspension bridge, which runs over the roof of the 
Turkish bath between both houses. It now retained 
but the shadow of its former splendour, for in the 



46 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

upper floor of this palace had lived, many years ago, 
a second legitimate wife of my father's, Schesade, a 
Persian princess of entrancing beauty. She is said 
to have been excessively extravagant, but to have 
fondly loved her step-children. Her little retinue 
was composed of one hundred and fifty cavaliers, all 
Persians, who lived on the ground floor ; with them 
she hunted and rode in the broad day — rather contrary 
to strict Arab notions. The Persian women are sub- 
jected to quite a Spartan training in bodily exercise ; 
they enjoy great liberty, much more so than Arab 
women, but they are also much more rude in mind 
and action. 

Schesade is said to have carried on her extravagant 
style of life beyond bounds ; her dresses, cut always 
after the Persian fashion, were literally covered with 
embroideries of pearls. A great many of these were 
picked up nearly every morning by the servants in her 
rooms, where she had dropped them from her gar- 
ments, but the princess would never take any of these 
precious jewels back again. She did not only drain 
my father's exchequer most wantonly, but violated 
many of our sacred laws ; in fact, she had only 
married him for his high station and his wealth, 
and had loved some one else all the time. lie was 
about to resent her conduct one day on her return 
from one of her excursions, and it was on this occa- 
sion that faithful old Nubi had saved him from com- 
mitting a great crime. Such a scene could, of course, 
only end in a divorce ; fortunately Schesade had no 
children of her own. There is a rumour still current 
amongst us that beautiful Schesade was observed some 



REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI. 47 

years after this event, when my father carried on war 
in Persia, and had the good fortune of taking the 
fortress of Bender Abbas, on the Persian Gulf, head- 
ing her troops, and taking aim at the members of our 
family herself. 

In the former home of this princess I began to 
learn to write by myself in a very primitive way. It 
had to be done secretly, too, as women never receive 
lessons in writing, and are not even allowed to show 
their skill therein. Taking the Kuran as guide, I 
tried to copy the letters as faithfully as I could upon 
the shoulder-blade of a camel, which we use in place 
of a slate. My courage rose as I got on, and I only 
required at last some finishing instructions in calli- 
graphy, for which end I appointed one of our slaves, 
who was notoriously proficient in the art, to the dignity 
of writing master. 

My friends greatly ridiculed my efforts, but I did 
not allow my enthusiasm to be damped thereby, nor 
have I ever had cause to regret the hours I spent in 
acquiring the art of writing, since it has proved a 
means of communicating with the few loyal and faith- 
ful ones of my far-away home. 



CHAPTER VI. 

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 

How many times have I been asked : " Do please tell 
me how can people in your country manage to live, 
with nothing to do ? " I had the pleasure of answer- 
ing this question six or eight times over at a large 
party, and I need not say how amusing and interesting 
it was to me to give the same reply so many times 
over. Coming from a person inhabiting a Northern 
country, the question is quite a natural one I admit, 
for it is hard for such to fancy a life without work, 
being firmly convinced, moreover, that women in the 
East do nothing all day but dream away their time in 
a shut-up harem, or, for a change, play with some 
luxurious toy. 

The ways of life differ everywhere ; all our views, 
our habits, and customs are shaped to suit our sur- 
roundings. Men and women work in the North 
either for an existence or for enjoyment. It is not so 
with people in our blessed South. I use the word 
"blessed" advisedly, as I look upon the contentedness 
of a people as a great and priceless boon ; and because 
the Arab, so frequently described in books as idle and 
laz}% is accustomed to an abstemiousness in which 



DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 49 

perhaps a Chinaman only equals him. The climate 
itself brings it about that the Southerner may work if 
he likes, while the Northerner is obliged to. Northern 
people are inclined somewhat to form opinions and 
prejudices in their own favour ; they are accustomed 
to look down upon their antipodes proudly and con- 
temptuously, which, to my taste at least, is not a 
very commendable quality to possess. It is but too 
often overlooked in this country how indispensable 
industry and activity are to the North to save hun- 
dreds of thousands from starvation. Are Italians, 
Spaniards, and Portuguese not a great deal less in- 
dustrious than Englishmen or Germans ? And for 
what reason ? Simply because their summer time 
lasts so much longer than their winter, and because 
they have not to struggle so hard for existence. In 
the cold season so many things of the direst necessity 
are required, the mere name and existence of which 
are beyond the comprehension of people in the South. 

Extravagant habits may be met with in every 
country. Those who possess both inclination and 
means will never lack the opportunity of gratifying 
the one and .spending the other to the fullest, where- 
ever they may be. Indeed, I do not intend to enlarge 
on this subject, but merely draw comparisons between 
the respective requirements of different countries. 

Countless objects are needed in this country to 
protect the frail life of a newborn child against the 
effects of an ever-changing temperature, while the 
Southern baby is left almost naked, and sleeps in a 
draught of warm air. Here a child of two years — 
from the richest to the poorest — cannot do without 



50 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

shoes, stockings, drawers, a dress, petticoats, gloves, 
bonnet, ties, gaiters, fur muff, and muffatees — their 
sole difference being quality ; whilst there, all the 
clothing the son of a prince requires consists of two 
articles — a shirt and the kofije. 

Now, I ask, is the Arab mother, who wants so very 
little for herself and for her child, to work as hard 
as the European housewife ? She has not the 
slightest idea what is meant by darning stockings or 
mending gloves, or of any of those numerous trifles 
that a nursery entails ; and as for that important 
and troublesome domestic item, a washing-day, it is 
a thing to us unknown ; our linen is washed daily, 
and dried in little more than half an hour, smoothed 
flat (not ironed), and put away. We do not use, and 
are therefore spared the anxiety of those useless orna- 
ments called muslin curtains. The garments of an 
Eastern woman, those of the greatest lady included, 
require an incredibly small amount of attention and 
mending: this is easily explained, as women move 
very little either indoors or out, and have fewer 
dresses. 

All this helps to render life to Eastern women, 
without distinction of station and rank, much less 
complicated. But to become properly acquainted 
with, and to get initiated into all these minor de- 
tails of household life, it is necessary to have been 
in the East, and to have lived there for a con- 
siderable time. No reliance is to be placed on the 
reports of travellers, who stop for a short time onty, 
who are unable to gain an insight into all these 
details, and maybe obtain all their information from 



DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 51 

hotel waiters. Foreign ladies even, supposing they 
have actually entered a harem either at Constanti- 
nople or Cairo, have never seen the inside of a real 
harem at all, but only its outside, represented by the 
state rooms decorated and furnished in European 
style. 

Our climate, moreover, is so splendid and produc- 
tive that it is hardly necessary to provide for the 
coming day. I do not deny that our people, taken as 
a whole, are averse to " flurry; " but it will be easier 
to realize the effects of a tropical sun, if one only 
considers how very trying a hot July or August in 
Europe can be sometimes. 

I repeat it — Arabs are by no means inclined to be 
industrious ; they only value two things, the art of 
war and husbandry, and but very few settle down to a 
trade. Though they are obliged to do much barter 
trade, they are poor merchants on the whole, and 
have but little of the Semitic talent for trading. Very 
little suffices for their few wants, and the future is left 
to provide for itself. An Arab never thinks of making 
plans for the morrow, as he may expect to be called 
away any day. He never plants but that which he 
can reap himself ; and he considers him who acts 
otherwise to be " like the rich man who set up 
greater barns" (Luke xii.). 

In this way life in the East is less laborious and 
more peaceful : it was this that I wanted particularly 
to point out and to prove before entering on a more 
minute description of the daily life in an Arab house- 
hold. Let me, however, state expressly that I am 
only speaking here of things referring to Oman and 



52 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Zanzibar, which, in many respects, differ from those 
in other Eastern countries. 

The hours of prayer regulate the daily life of every 
Mahometan ; they are said five times a day, and if 
this be strictly observed, as is ordained by the holy 
book, including ablution and changing of dress, they 
take up three hours at the very least. 

Persons of rank are roused between four and half- 
past five o'clock a.m. for the first prayer, and return 
to sleep afterwards; devout people wait for sunrise 
at six o'clock a.m. before doing so ; the lower classes 
begin their daily task immediately after the first 
prayer. All persons in our house could live just as 
they pleased, provided they followed the regulations 
set down for devotions and for the attendance at the 
two principal meals. 

The majority slept till eight o'clock, when the 
women and girls are gently roused by a slave, who 
begins to rub and knead them all over, which pro- 
duces a very agreeable sensation. In the meantime 
the bath has been filled with fresh spring water, and 
the garments — on which jessamine and orange 
blossoms have been strewn during night — are fumi- 
gated with amber and musk before they are put om 

About an hour is spent with the toilet, after which 
everybody has to wish our father good morning 
before sitting down to breakfast, the first of our two 
daily meals. Though a very copious and abundant 
repast, it took us very little time to get it over, as all 
the dishes had been prepared and placed on the table 
in readiness. 

After breakfast everybody is at liberty to employ 






DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 53 

his leisure as he likes. The gentlemen get ready to 
go to the audience-chamber ; the women, who have 
no work on hand, sit down at the windows to look out 
into the animated streets, or watch for a stealthy 
glance from the flashing eye of a belated noble hurry- 
ing to the levee, until, alas ! the voice of an appre- 
hensive mother or aunt calls the unhappy girl away 
from the gay scene below. 

Two or three hours are thus rapidly passed away. 
Meanwhile the gentlemen call upon each other and 
send word to the ladies whom they wish to visit in 
the evening. The older women, who take no plea- 
sure in all this lively stir, retire to their rooms, alone 
or in company, to take up some fancy work, to em- 
broider their veils, shirts, or drawers with gold 
thread, or cambric shirts for their husbands and sons 
with red and white silk — an art which requires con- 
siderable skill. Others, again, read novels, visit the 
sick in their rooms, or employ themselves with their 
own private affairs. 

At one o'clock the servants announce that it is time 
for the second prayer. The sun is now in full blaze, 
and after prayer all escape gladly to some cool place 
to dream away an hour or two upon handsomely 
plaited soft mats, into which sacred mottoes are 
woven, or to chat and eat cakes and fruit. 

The third prayer is said at four o'clock p.m., and 
then we dress in our more elaborate afternoon 
costumes. Again we call upon our father, wishing 
him "good afternoon" — our grown-up brothers and 
sisters are allowed to call him father, the little children 
and their mothers only address him as hbabi (sir). 



54 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Now followed the liveliest time of the day : we sat 
down to our principal meal, at which all members of 
our large family met together for the second time. 
After the meal the eunuchs placed European chairs 
on the grand piazza in front of my father's apart- 
ments for the grown-up people, whilst we little 
children remained standing in deference to old age, 
which is, I believe, nowhere honoured to that degree. 
The numerous family grouped round our usually 
grave father, the trim and well-armed eunuchs being 
ranged at some distance m rank and file along the 
gallery. Coffee and all kinds of French fruit-syrups 
were handed round, of which we children partook 
freely. Conversation was carried on accompanied by 
the tunes of a mighty barrel-organ (the largest I have 
ever seen), or, for a change, by some large musical box ; 
sometimes a blind Arab woman, called Amra, who 
possessed an exquisite voice, was called in to sing. 

An hour and a half later we all separated, and 
employed ourselves as we liked. Some chewed betel- 
nut, which is a Suahely habit, and not liked on that 
account by Arabs born in Arabia proper. Those, 
however, among us who had been born on the East 
coast of Africa, and were brought up together with 
negroes and mulattoes, rather fancied this habit, not- 
withstanding the disapproval of our Asiatic relations, 
though we never indulged in it in our father's presence. 

Not long afterwards, gunshots and the beat of 
drums of the Indian guard announced sunset and the 
time for the fourth prayer. Not one of our daily 
devotions was performed faster, everybody seemed in 
a hurry to get it over. For those who did not wish 



DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 55 

to go out themselves (we and our mothers always re- 
quired a special permission from our father or from 
his representative, which was rarely refused), or those 
who did not expect visitors, were sure to he invited by 
some one in the house, or received visits from brothers 
and sisters, stepmothers, stepchildren, or from other 
people. Coffee and lemonade, fruits and cakes were 
freely partaken of. There was a great deal of merry 
joking and laughing going on ; some read aloud, others 
played at cards (never for money, however), or sang, 
or listened to negroes playing the sese, or sewed, 
embroidered, and made lace. 

It is, therefore, quite a mistake to suppose that a 
great lady in the East does absolutely nothing. It is 
true she does not paint, nor play, nor dance (according 
to Western notions). But are there no other amuse- 
ments to divert oneself with ? People in our country 
are very temperate, and they are not given to a 
feverish pursuit of everchanging amusements and 
pleasures, though from the European point of view 
Oriental life may appear somewhat monotonous. 

Our own personal attendants were, of course, all 
women ; the menservants were dismissed every even- 
ing to their homes and families, and the eunuchs slept 
also outside the house. 

Oil lamps are kept burning all night in the rooms 
and passages, but no candles are allowed after bed- 
time. Children above the age of two are no longer 
put to bed at a certain hour, they are left to them- 
selves until they are tired. It frequently occurs that 
the children, overcome by fatigue, lie down anywhere 
and fall asleep, and then they are generally picked up 



56 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

carefully by some slaves and carried to their couches, 
sometimes a long way, without awakiog to the fact. 

Those people who have not gone out or received 
visitors generally retire about ten o'clock. On moon- 
light nights many take a walk on the flat housetops, 
which was a very delightful airing. 

The fifth and last prayer ought to be said at 7.30 
p.m., but as many are prevented at this time, it may 
be left unsaid until midnight or bedtime. 

At bedtime all ladies of rank are waited upon by 
their female slaves, whose business it is to watch the 
falling asleep of their mistresses. One of them re- 
peats the kneading process of the morning, while 
another fans gently, until they too may retire. I 
have mentioned already that all women go to bed fully 
dressed, and with all their jewels. 



CHAPTEB VII. 

OUR MEALS. 

We had two meals a day, as I have mentioned before. 
About nine a.m. we all met in the great saloon to kiss 
our father's hands. As a rule our brothers and 
nephews, even those who were married and who lived 
out of the house, shared our breakfast during the 
time our father lived in town with us. I do not 
remember, however, that he ever went out to take a 
meal with any of his sons or any one else. 

The dishes were all arranged and placed by the 
eunuchs on the long sefra (diniug-table). This sefra 
is made of wood, and looks somewhat like a billiard- 
table, only ours was twice as long, a little wider, and 
about three inches high, with a ledge of about a hand's 
breadth running round its sides. We do not have 
separate dining-rooms, and the sefra is carried into 
the gallery at mealtimes. Though we had some 
foreign furniture, such as couches, tables, and chairs, 
and sometimes wardrobes (my father's apartment 
contained a great deal of European furniture, which 
was more for show, however, than for actual use), we 
took our meals after the Eastern fashion, and sat 
down on the floor upon carpets and mats. Precedence 



58 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

was strictly observed at table. My father always 
took bis place at the upper end of the sefra ; next to 
him, on bis right and left, sat my elder brothers and 
sisters, and the little ones (above seven years) took 
the lower seats. The fashion of taking people in to 
dinner is not practised. 

There was always a great variety of viands, often as 
many as fifteen dishes ; rice dressed in many ways. Of 
meat and poultry, mutton and fowls were liked most. 
There was fish besides, and Eastern bread, and all kinds 
of sweets and dainties. As all the dishes are placed 
on the table beforehand, there is no attendance re- 
quired ; numerous eunuchs stand at some distance, 
drawn up in line to carry out special orders. Their 
services were mostly required by my father, who 
would send in portions to the smaller children who 
were not yet admitted to table, or to sick people. 
At Bet il Mtoni he used to make me sit in a place 
where he could reach my plate. We had the same 
food as the grown-up people, but it was always a plea- 
sure to us to have our dishes selected by him, and he 
himself greatly enjoyed doing so. 

On sitting down to table, every one said in an 
undertone, but quite audibly : " In the name of the 
merciful Lord," and on rising, " Thanked be the Lord 
of the universe." My father always sat down and 
rose first. 

Clean plates were not handed to each person as is 
the custom in Europe, but the various dishes (with 
the exception of rice) were served up in small plates, 
symmetrically arranged along the sefra, and two people 
could always eat out of one plate. 



OUR MEALS. 59 

Drinks were not taken at meals, but after them 
sherbet or sugared water was handed round. There 
was no talking, unless some one was specially 
addressed by my father; the greatest silence pre- 
vailed, which was very pleasant. Neither flowers nor 
fruit were placed on the sefra. 

Shortly before and after each meal male and female 
slaves, smartly dressed, handed round basins to wash 
our hands. As a rule we used our ringers to eat with 
— knives and forks were deemed superfluous, and they 
were used only when European guests were enter- 
tained. Meats and fish were chopped up small before- 
hand, and we had spoons for all liquids. The upper 
classes perfume their hands after the washing, to 
remove any traces of the viands. 

Fruit was never taken at meals, but either before or 
some time after. Each person had a certain quantity 
of the kinds in season sent to her rooms. 

Half an hour after breakfast and dinner coffee was 
served by eunuchs in those well-known little Oriental 
cups in gold or silver casings. The coffee is very 
strong, boiled down to syrup, and filtered quite clear. 
It is taken, without sugar and milk, and nothing is 
eaten with it, except, perhaps, a very finely chopped 
" areka " nut. 

Coffee is always poured into the cup immediately 
before it is taken, and as the pouring out requires 
some skill, there are but few servants who can be 
selected for this office. The neat coffee-pot of tin, 
with brass clasps (china is never used), is carried in 
the left hand, and one of the little cups in its casing 
(called sarf) in the right one of the servant who 



60 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

pours out the beverage, an assistant following with a 
tray of empty cups and a large pot to fill up from. 
If he finds all the company still together, his work is 
quickly done, otherwise it is his duty to seek out each 
person. 

It is w r ell known that coffee is highly valued in the 
East, and great care is devoted to its preparation. 
The quantity each time required is roasted, ground 
and boiled immediately before use, that it may be 
quite fresh. Neither the surplus of roasted beans 
nor the boiled coffee is ever kept ; what remains is 
either thrown away or used by the lower servants if 
they like. 

The second and last meal is taken every afternoon 
at four o'clock precisely, and nothing more is served 
after the same until breakfast next morning, except 
coffee and fruits. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE 
AND PRINCESS. 

Although the birth of a prince or of a princess with 
us was not announced by the salute of guns, it was 
nevertheless always an event of importance, which 
caused much joy, but I regret to say much envy also. 
Our father and the respective mother were of course 
delighted at the birth of a child, and we little ones 
fully shared their joy. A newborn brother or sister 
had to go through all manners of ceremonies, and as 
such births occurred five or six times annually in our 
family, they were the welcome cause of as many 
family festivities to us. 

No Mahometan will suffer the assistance of a 
medical man in such cases ; raidwives alone are 
allowed and admitted, and they are ignorance itself. 
The majority of them come from Hindustan, and are 
much preferred to native women ; I do not know for 
what reason, for a midwife from Hindustan knows as 
little or less of her business than those from Arabia 
or from the Suahely country. In fact, mother as 
well as child may thank God alone, and their constitu- 
tion, if they survive at all or keep well afterwards, for 



02 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

they owe no thanks to their stupid and foolish 
nurses. 

After a warm water bath a kind of bandage is 
wound round the child's body, its neck and armpits 
are powdered with some strongly perfumed vegetable 
powder, and it is dressed in a calico shirt of an in- 
grain dye, or in a muslin one. The little thing is 
then placed on its back, its hands and feet are 
straightened out to the utmost, and it is swathed in a 
swathing-band up to the shoulders, the tiny arms and 
legs being thus firmly confined. In this state the 
child remains for forty days, except while the band is 
removed twice a day to give it a bath. By this pro- 
cess the child's body, it is thought, will be made 
straight and faultless for life. 

The mother always watches over the child herself, 
and never leaves it to the care of any of her servants. 
Slaves are set to rock the cradle incessantly, which is 
of East Indian workmanship, and made of the finest 
wood beautifully carved. She rarely, however, nurse3 
the child herself, except for a pastime, for each child 
has one or two wet nurses up to the age of two. 

If it be a girl, she has holes pricked in her ears 
on the seventh day with a needle and thread of red 
silk, generally six in each ear„ to which heavy gold 
rings are attached for ever when she is two months 
old. I say " for ever," because females who do not 
wear earrings either mourn a deceased relation or 
they have no holes pierced. 

On the fortieth day a ceremony is performed to 
which European children could not be subjected : all 
the hair is shaved off the child's head. This may 



LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 63 

appear incredible, but many things in the South are 
different to what they are here. A bald-headed child 
would be considered as great a curiosity as a child 
born with a few tufts of hair is in this country. My 
Hamburg nurse was quite surprised when she saw 
my newborn daughter for the first time, whose black 
hair came down to her neck ; nor was she satisfied 
until she had made my late husband bring home a 
small soft brush, with which she delighted in curling 
the baby locks two days old. 

The shaving is done by the chief eunuch under 
certain ceremonies, in which fumigation with a 
species of a gum-arabic (somewhat similar to the 
incense used in Eoman Catholic churches) plays an 
important part. The first hair is considered of much 
moment — it must not be burnt, nor carelessly thrown 
away, but buried in the ground, thrown into the 
sea, or hidden in some crevice of a wall. Twenty to 
thirty persons are always present during this cere- 
mony, and the chief eunuch, who only on this occasion 
acts as barber, runs a great risk of crushing the soft 
and tender skull of the infant. He, as well as his 
numerous assistants, then receive a valuable present 
from my father. 

The swathing band is removed on this day, rings 
are put on the arms and legs, arid attached to the 
ears, and the child is dressed in a silk shirt and the 
kofije, a cap of gold stuff with ear-flaps. After this 
day everybody may go and look at it, for up to that 
time no one but the parents, the slaves on duty, and 
a few of the most intimate of the mother's friends 
were allowed to do so. This precaution is taken on 



64 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

account of the widespread belief in the evil eye and 
other dreaded species of witchcraft. 

Little children of this age in the East look, beyond 
a doubt, much better than European ones, in whose 
dresses white predominates. My opinion remains 
unchanged on this point even after my long residence 
in Europe, and my own children looked hideous to me 
in their baby clothes when I compared them with 
my little brothers and sisters in their pretty attire. 

The smallest children are already strongly per- 
fumed, and everything they use and wear — dresses, 
sheets, bath-towels, and swathing clothes — are covered 
all night with jessamine (different from that known 
here), fumigated with amber and musk, and sprinkled 
all over with ottar of roses before they are used. It 
must be remembered that windows and doors are open 
nearly all day throughout the year, which mitigates 
to a certain extent any bad effect arising from this 
curious partiality for strong scents. 

Several charms are also attached to the child's 
body on the fortieth clay to protect it against the effects 
of the evil eye. They are called "Hamaje," or "Hafid," 
and consist of all sorts of things ; the lower class 
using an onion, or a bit of garlic, or small shells, a 
piece of bone stitched up in leather and worn on the 
upper part of the left arm. In the upper classes 
these kinds of charms are replaced by gold or silver 
plates, worn on a chain round the neck, upon which 
sentences from the Kuran are engraved. The boys 
wear them only up to a certain age, the girls generally a 
longer period. The favourite charm consists of a goM 
or silver locket of pretty workmanship, likewise worn 



LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 65 

on a chain, two inches long by one inch wide, enclos- 
ing a miniature of the " hurs " (guardian). No person 
wearing a charm like this, bearing the holy name of 
the Lord, may enter an unclean place — a proof surely 
of the great reverence of a true Mahometan for his 
Lord and Creator ! 

From a very early age the child is fed (besides 
mother's milk) from a long spouted cup several times 
a day with milk soup, boiled with rice flour and sugar; 
the sucking bottle was quite unknown in my time. 
It receives no other kind of food until it teethes ; after 
that it may eat anything. It is' not customary to 
carry the children about, they are put on the carpet 
and then left to their own devices. 

Another festivity follows at the first attempt of the 
child to sit up by itself, for the exclusive benefit of its 
little brothers and sisters. To celebrate this festive 
event in befitting style, extra cakes and other good 
things are provided. The mother, the nurses, and 
the child are dressed in their best, and wear their 
finest jewels. The child is then put into a small 
square carriage on low wheels, stuffed with cushions. 
The little legs are steadied upon a board fixed perpen- 
dicularly to the poles, and the other children gather 
all round. 

Grains of Indian corn, which have been roasted in 
a peculiar way, till they get as large as a thimble and 
soft as wadding, are then mixed with a quantity of 
small silver coin, and this compound is poured over 
the child's head ; this done, the children rush upor. 
their little brother or sister to obtain the coins, not 
seldom endangering the infant's life. The children 



66 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

of friends are sometimes invited on this occa- 
sion. 

The child runs about barefooted until it is strong 
enough to wear sandals. Those worn by boys (watje) 
are much lighter than the kubkab of the girls, and 
the latter are generally allowed to wear boys' sandals 
until they are able to put on the kubkab. Stockings 
are not worn by either sex ; ladies of rank use them 
at times upon riding excursions, as custom requires 
the ankles to be covered. 

Besides the nurses, two or three slaves are appointed 
as personal attendants to each child when three 
months old, after which they are its property. The 
number of slaves is gradually increased as the child 
gets older, and in the case of death of any of them 
the vacant place is filled up by another, or a certain 
sum of money is paid instead by my father. The 
little girls wear boys' caps in the house up to a certain 
age. 

Until their seventh year the princes live among the 
women ; they then solemnly embrace the Mosaic faith, 
the ceremony being followed by great festivities, in 
which the state dignitaries and all high officials take 
part. This, if possible, is enacted in the country and 
in the presence of our father, and ends in public re- 
joicings of three days' duration. 

On this occasion the boy is presented with a quiet 
mare, and with mounted attendants. The boys are 
thus taught to ride from early youth, and in time 
attain the dexterity of circus riders. It requires, of 
course, a great deal more skill to gain a firm seat on 
horseback without the good saddles and stirrups used 



LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 67 

in this country. So great was the importance my 
father attached to perfect horsemanship, that the 
slightest mishap while out riding would call forth a 
severe reprimand not only on his sons, hut on their 
incompetent riding masters. 

Indeed not one of us was spoiled in the least. My 
father's high sense of justice and unparalleled 
generosity was combined with great and firm con- 
sistency. We were expected to obey strictly our tutors 
and teachers, be they Arabs, Abyssinians, or Negroes. 
He was deaf to our entreaties or complaints if ever we 
made any — a severity which taught us to respect those 
in authority over us, and to appreciate that authority 
when we had come to years of discretion. 

The nurses, even those whose term of service had 
been but short, were highly esteemed and honoured 
as long as they lived. They are always slaves by 
birth, but as a rule they are freed in reward of their 
fidelity and devotion. Especially the black nurses 
distinguish themselves by their great attachment to 
their charges ; the most anxious mother may quietly 
leave her child with such an one who considers 
herself a second mother to the child and treats it 
accordingly. What a difference there is between 
them and the half-hearted interest shown by the 
nurses in this country ! Many a time have I been 
unable to resist interceding in behalf of poor little 
nurslings when some flagrant carelessness forced 
itself upon my notice. 

The contrast which exists between the wet nurses of 
these parts and our Arab nurses may possibly be 
explained by the fact that in most cases the former are 



68 MEMOIES OF AN ARABIAN PIUNCESS. 

compelled to forsake their own children in exchange 
for a perfect little stranger — a sacrifice for which, 
every mother will admit, no consideration of mere 
money will compensate. 

The position of a black wet nurse with regard to 
the child entrusted to her by her mistress is quite a 
different one. She has been in the latter's service for 
years, may even have been born in her house : thus her 
own interests and those of her master's are closely 
knitted together. And further, there may be added a 
circumstance of much weight— a black nurse is not 
required to part with her child, but frequently, if not 
always, she retains it. The child of the nurse receives 
the same nourishment as its little foster brother or 
sister, shares its pap, its fowl, its bath, wears its old 
dresses, and by and by shares its toys. The child 
grows up into a slave, but always preferred to others 
except by very badly disposed people who can forget 
their foster relation. 

This patriarchal state of things generates more 
faithful and devoted nurses than any European system 
could achieve. I have often reflected how very hard 
it must be for these poor women to part with their 
own children for the sake of lucre, though I have 
repeatedly been told that they are by no means so 
sensible of this as I supposed. This, however, I cannot 
understand. Could I ever entrust my poor helpless 
child to a perfect stranger, and with the greatest in- 
difference too ? Not for the world ! 

These black nurses, however, have one very bad 
habit : they are acquainted with all sorts of dreadful 
and absurd stories, which they tell the little children of 



LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 69 

three to five years to amuse and to keep them quiet. 
The lion (simba), the leopard (tschui), the elephant 
(tembo), and numberless witches * (watchawi) of course 
play a prominent part in these fairy tales, some of 
which are really blood-curdling. It is perfectly im- 
possible to break them of this noxious habit. 

Bearing children is unquestionably much easier in 
the South than in Northern countries : colds, coughs, 
and the other numerous assailants of European 
children are unknown there ; yet although the climate 
is very hot, and indoor life is replete with enticing 
comforts, the children are not given to sluggishness 
and indolence ; they are allowed to roam in full liberty, 
and from the mode of their garments their limbs are 
nowise fettered. Gymnastics are unknown, but boys 
from ten to twelve go in greatly for high jumping, 
some of their flying leaps taking them over two horses. 

Swimming in the sea is practised as eagerly, and 
the boys teach themselves. At an early age they learn 
to shoot, and very passionately too, sham fights being 
very favourite pastimes. In spite of boys always 
going about armed to the teeth, provided with as much 
ammunition ,as grown-up men, one hardly ever hears 
of an accident arising from want of precaution. 

I have already mentioned that the young princes 
live in their fathers' houses up to a certain age, after 
which a residence of their own is assigned to each, in 
which they generally keep house with their mother if 
she be living. They have a certain monthly allowance, 
fully sufficient to supply all their wants. In the event 
of marriage or an increase to the family, or even after 
* A Suahely word, the singular of which is mtschawi. 



70 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

a time of irreproachable conduct, an extra allowance 
may be looked for, but in no other case. However, on 
the arrival of our father's ships once a year with new 
goods, all our brothers and sisters living by them- 
selves appeared with the whole of their family to claim 
their individual share, whether they required it or not. 
If any of them had the misfortune of exceeding their 
allowance they found it no easy matter to extricate 
themselves, as my father never countenanced the fact, 
and none would transgress more than once if he could 
help it. 

In case of war, which was unfortunately rather 
frequent in Oman, all the princes, the half-grown 
included, were expected to join and take their part 
in the fight like the common soldier. 

They were subjected to a very strict discipline, but 
this only caused the sons to look up to their father 
with greater respect and veneration. I often watched, 
as a child, how my elder brothers would hurry to the 
door, in advance of the slaves, to put the sandals 
my father had left there in readiness for him. 

There is but little to say about the education of 
a princess : the first years of her life resembles that 
of her brothers, with the exception that the latter 
were allowed much more liberty out of the house 
afler completing their seventh year. The only thing 
which deserves mention is, that at the birth of a 
princess — to suit the hairdress in our country — a 
broad comb, generally of silver, is placed under the 
back of the newborn child's head, to give it a flat 
shape. When a princess is married to one of her 
numerous cousins, either in Oman or in Zanzibar, 



LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 71 

she quits her paternal home, of course, in exchange 
for that of her husband. The former, however, re- 
mains open to her at all times, as the sole and real 
place of shelter against any vicissitudes of life, 
though she may go and live with a brother if she 
prefers it. Each sister has her favourite brother, 
and vice versa ; they maintain a fast friendship in 
good and in bad times, and advise and help each 
other to their utmost. Though this might prove 
a source of deep joy in one way, it often gave rise 
to bitter jealousies which the stoutest heart had 
difficulty in overcoming— neither were the oppor- 
tunities very rare in so large a family as ours. 

It often happened, too, that a sister would intercede 
with our father in mitigation of some foolish deed of a 
favourite brother, and succeed entirely on the strength 
of his evident preference for his daughters, and his 
usual inability to refuse any of their requests. He 
was particularly kind and courteous to his elder 
daughters, walking towards them and seating them 
by his side on a sofa, while the elder sons and the 
little people stood by respectfully. 



CHAPTER IX. 



SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 



On the whole the school (mdarse) is considered by 
Eastern people, and likewise by us, as of little 
moment and consequence. School in Europe is the 
centre of life in Church and State, alike to prince 
and to citizen ; from its efficiency depends essentially 
the cultivation of mind and knowledge as well as 
most future prospects. In the East the " mdarse " 
is altogether a matter of secondary consideration, 
and for a good many people it does not exist at all. 
Before discussing this point further I wish to say 
something about what we called "school" at our 
house. 

Between the age of six or seven all children— boys 
and girls — had to enter the mdarse ; the latter were 
only required to learn to read, the former both to 
write and read. At Bet il Mtoni and at Bet il Sahel 
there was only one lady teacher, respectively, specially 
imported by our father from Oman. I need not say 
that unforeseen holidays, brought about by our 
teacher's occasional sickness, did not meet with 
proper regret on our part. 

We had no separate schoolroom ; our lessons were 



SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 73 

said in an open gallery, to which pigeons and parrots, 
peacocks and ricebirds, found free ingress. We also 
had an uninterrupted view of the courtyard and its 
busy life there. All the furniture of the schoolroom 
consisted of a single large mat. Our school property 
was equally simple — all we required was a Kuran 
on a stand (marfa), a small inkstand containing 
homemade ink and the well-bleached shoulder-blade 
of a camel for a slate, on which the writing with ink 
is easy, without the irritating, jarring noise produced 
on the slate. Slaves have to see to the cleaning of 
these blades. 

The first thing we learned was the very compli- 
cated Arab ABC, after which, for want of any other 
spelling-book, reading was taught from the Kuran, 
and the boys copied from it. Tnose who could read 
pretty fluently read in a chorus, and rather loudly 
too. But this was the extent of our schooling, for 
we never got any explanation of what we were 
reading about. Hence the fact that perhaps one only 
amongst a thousand really understands and is able 
to explain the sense and the precepts of the Ma- 
hometan holy book, though there may be eighty 
in every hundred who have learned at least half of 
it by heart. To meditate or to speculate upon its 
contents is considered irreligious and condemnatory ; 
people are simply to believe what they are taught, 
and this maxim is rigorously carried out. 

After a repast of fruit we assembled at seven 

o'clock in the morning on our mat, and there awaited 

the arrival of our teacher, whiling away the time 

with wrestling, boxing, jumping, and with perilous 
6 



74 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

attempts at climbing the railings, &c. A watch was 
set at a corner of the gallery to inform us, by a 
cough, of the teacher's approach, upon which we 
would promptly seat ourselves, looking extremely 
demure, only to rebound, like so many indiarubber 
balls, respectfully to shake hands with the dreaded 
one and to wish her good morning. She always 
carried the much detested bamboo cane in one hand, 
and a large brass inkstand in the other. Until she 
had taken her seat we had to stand up before her 
iu file, and were finally allowed to sit down ourselves 
cross-legged around her on the matting. 

She now began to recite the first Sura of the Kuran, 
which may be called the Mahometan Lord's Prayer, 
echoed in chorus by us and concluded with Amin 
(not Amen). Then we repeated what we had learned 
the day before, and took a new piece in reading and 
writing. Lessons lasted till nine o'clock precisely, 
and were resumed after breakfast up to second 
prayers at noon. 

Each of us w 7 as allowed to bring some slaves to 
school to join in our lessons ; they sat at some dis- 
tance behind us, while we grouped ourselves as we 
pleased. There w r ere neither fixed places nor a 
division into forms. Eeports which are looked 
forward to with such feverish anxiety in European 
schools were unknown to us. Our respective mothers 
and our fathers received only a verbal report if any 
of us made very good progress, and in the reverse 
case, or if very good or bad conduct called for com- 
ment. Our teacher had received special orders to 
punish us severely whenever she deemed it necessary, 



SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 75 

and we gave her often enough occasion to make use 
of her cane. 

Besides reading and writing, we were taught a 
little arithmetic, that is, ciphering in writing up to 
100, and up to 1000 mentally ; everything beyond 
that was thought to be of evil. No pains were taken 
with either grammar or orthography ; the very com- 
plicated "Ilnahu" can only be acquired by much 
reading in after years. Of such sciences as history, 
geography, mathematics, physics, and others I never 
heard — I only was made acquainted with these 
branches of science when I came to Europe. I am 
not sure, however, that I am so much better off 
now for the smattering I have acquired of these 
things at great pains, than the people on the other 
side. This only I know, that my increased know- 
ledge has not saved me from being repeatedly de- 
ceived and swindled. Oh, ye happy ones at home who 
are spared the inevitable sorrows which lie beneath 
the dazzling gauze of civilization ! 

The style of our tuition did not admit of home 
tasks of course, which take up so many hours in this 
country. 

The teacher, feared as she may be, is treated with 
great respect by everybody, and by her pupils 
especially is treated with veneration in after life. 

One thing, however, schoolchildren in the East 
and in Europe have in common— the natural instinct 
of gaining the teacher's favour by means of little 
bribes. When my children used to ask me for a few 
pence to buy a nosegay or a flower-pot for Miss 
So-and-so, I was always reminded of my own school- 



76 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

days. This trait belongs, I believe, to every race 
and nation. Before we ever dreamt of the existence 
of foreign countries or of their schools and school- 
children, my brothers and sisters and myself tried 
to ingratiate ourselves with our teacher by taking 
her all sorts of things, sweets in preference ; every 
day she received a goodly portion of the French 
goodies our father gave us. I know not whether the 
other effect of this kind of present was a premeditated 
one, but certain it is that a repeated result was a 
violent toothache — and a holiday for us. 

There was no fixed term for attending school. 
What was considered necessary to know had to be 
learned in any case ; but it depended entirely upon 
the capacity of each individual if this knowledge was 
acquired in one year, in two, or more. 

Fancy work was not taught at school, it was from 
our mothers that we acquired the art of sewing, 
embroidery, and lace-making, at which most of them 
were very proficient, though we were not expected 
to attain any particular standard. Some of my 
sisters, for instance, who had acquired great skill 
in such work, could easily have made a living by 
it, had they ever needed ; others, again, never got 
beyond sewing on a button. 

There exist some schools, but only for children of 
poor parents. Every one who is at all able to afford 
it, keeps a private tutor or a governess. Sometimes 
the secretary of the master of the house undertook 
to give lessons to the girls — however, only as long 
as they were quite young. 

This brief mention is all I have to say of our 



SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 77 

schools. It is but natural that I should sometimes 
be tempted to draw comparisons between them and 
European ones,, between the over-cultured here and 
the ignorance of the children there. I myself was 
born, bred, and educated there, and my julgment, 
which is based upon my experience both in Arabia 
and Europe, and which I feel to be quite free from 
any prejudice whatever, may perhaps be of interest. 

In general I am of opinion that Europeans exact 
just that too much from a school, as the Arabs demand 
too little. As yet no people has discovered the right 
middle course, nor will it ever be found ; contrasts 
like these will exist as long as the world lasts. 

There is hardly any science which the children are 
not taught here, and to such an extent that the childish 
understanding cannot possibly retain all. With the 
beginning of school life parents see hardly any- 
thing of their children. The latter are so much 
overtasked, even after their regular, school-hours, that 
home life and influence are almost at an end. There 
is a continued race and chase all day from task to 
task, and how much of these studies will be of lasting 
value to them ? How much of it is crammed, only to 
be forgotten again as quickly ! To my idea, a few 
extra hours spent in their home would leave a healthier 
impression on their minds and memories by and by. 

For five or more hours daily the poor children are 
cooped up in a schoolroom which is insufferably hot 
and stifling. In one school, with more than two 
hundred children, I remarked that there were only 
four tumblers. Can any one be surprised under such 
circumstances if a child sickens ? However much 



78 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

care and pains may be taken for its welfare at home, 
they are rendered quite useless by tbe effect of the 
foul school air. You need only look at some of these 
children to make your heart ache ! Was not our large, 
lofty gallery a much fitter place ? What is the use 
of all accomplishments if they are acquired by ruining 
health ? 

Of that feeling of respect which was inculcated into 
us in early }-outh for our parents, teachers, and tutors, 
and old age in general, there is not much to be per- 
ceived here. The lessons in religion also seem to me 
to miss their aim ; the children are overburdened with 
learning numberless dates of ecclesiastical history, 
while their hearts remain a barren soil. 

The word of God and His holy commandments 
should be taught more, and less time be bestowed on 
subtle inquiries into indifferent matter. It will 
surely always remain a vain longing of the short- 
sighted human mind to fathom the innermost secrets 
of nature and creation. I once read a beautiful and 
impressive simile. Man's short life was there com- 
pared with that of a moth, which first saw the light 
of day within the walls of a large cathedral ; the 
moth's short span of life expired long long before it 
could realize one hundredth part of all the beauty and 
mystery surrounding it — such is the life of man amid 
the wonders of the universe. Let wise men continue 
their investigations and their broodings ; but let them 
cease cramming children's minds with dry unprofitable 
stuff that the brain cannot digest and the soul sickens 
with and dies. 

I was shocked, in looking over some statistics on 



SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 79 

lunacy, to find that the majority of these deplorable 
cases were returned from former students of high 
schools and universities. A good mairy of these surely 
were the victims of overpressure. I could not help 
thinking of my native home, where lunatic asylums 
are not needed, where I never saw but two maniacs, 
and never heard of any others — and of these two, one 
was a negress, the other a native of Hindustan. 

As I previously said, I have no desire to criticise 
European culture, nor am I able to do so ; I only 
wished to speak of my own observations, which con- 
vinced me that there are many sad failures in the 
European educational system. But at all events, I 
shall be pardoned if I question the right which 
Europeans take upon themselves in deploring the fate 
of a people as yet "unenlightened," and their justifi- 
cation in forcibly imparting their civilization on the 
same. I am firmly convinced, Arab born and bred as 
I am, that all efforts on the part of Europeans to do 
away, at a sweep, with the incarnate ignorance of 
Mahometans, and to fly the flag of science and 
learning, with even the smallest amount of precipita- 
tion, will meet with barren effect. 

Other nations, like the Japanese for instance, 
whose creed and precepts are less binding than the 
Mahometan, probably offer a more grateful soil — the 
more so as they are naturally more desirous of step- 
ping into the footprints of Europeans. 

People frequently deride the Turkish half-culture, 
and yet the Turks have striven much harder to become 
civilized than is at all good for them. They have only 
weakened themselves without achieving the desired 



80 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

end, because foreign culture is contrary and opposed 
to their fundamental view3. Civilization cannot be 
obtruded by force, and it will only be just to concede 
to every nation the right of adhering without hindrance 
to their views and institutions, which have in the 
course of centuries been founded under the in- 
fluence of ripened experience and practical worldly 
wisdom. Above all, the pious Arab would be deeply 
shocked if his civilization were to begin with lessons 
on natural science, of which, according to the 
European code of education, people are supposed to 
know something. What would be his bewilderment if 
any one were to talk to him of the laws of nature, who 
sees in all the universe, down to its most infinitesimal 
details, hut one source of creation — the all-guiding 
and all-directing hand of God ! 



CHAPTER X. 

YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUR 
HOUSEHOLD. 

In Europe the father of a family generally makes his 
wife and his unmarried daughters a certain monthly 
or quarterly allowance for their dresses. This, how- 
ever, is not the case with us. Zanzibar has no 
manufacture of any kind, therefore all the clothing 
and materials required for the entire population have 
to be imported from foreign lands. 

My father carried on an extensive barter trade for 
the immense requirements of his various households. 
Several of his large sailing ships were annually 
despatched laden with produce (principally cloves) to 
England, Marseilles, Persia, to the East Indies and to 
China, and the net proceeds of these cargoes was 
reinvested by our agents in these countries in such 
goods as they had instructions to purchase. The 
master of each vessel took an endless list of the goods 
to be brought back, most of them being articles of 
dress and fashion. 

The day for the yearly distribution of these goods 
depended, of course, upon the return of the ships. It 
is but natural that this event was impatiently looked 



82 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

forward to ; it signified to us the beginning of a new 
season of fashion, and the style and quality of our 
finery for a whole year depended upon the contents 
of the ships lying in our ports. 

To us children this time also had an especial charm : 
it brought all our beautiful toys from Europe. I 
remember my frantic joy on one of these occasions at 
being presented with a beautifully dressed doll — my 
first one — a doll that cried and had teeth ! 

Soon after the vessels had arrived in port, a day 
was fixed on which the distribution of the cargo was 
to take place to old and young, high and low, in the 
house. Our younger brothers generally tried to find out 
beforehand from the captains what toys they had 
brought back. There were always twenty to thirty 
cases, containing nothing but horses, carriages, dolls, 
whips, fishes, and ducks, with magnets, musical boxes 
of all sizes, concertinas, flutes, trumpets, guns, and 
what not ! Woe to the captain whose goods did not 
give satisfaction, for he was responsible for all he 
brought back, having full power and positive orders 
to buy only the best of everything, wherever he could 
get it, without regard to price. 

The distribution took place at Bet il Mtoni and at 
Bet il Sahel, and it always took three to four days before 
each of the hundreds of recipients had received his 
share. The eunuchs had to do the unpacking, and 
my elder brothers and sisters were entrusted with the 
general apportioning. I regret to say, however, that 
this time never went by without a good deal of heart- 
burning and real or imaginary grievances. 

The materials for clothing, costly and plain, were 



YEARLY OUTFIT. 83 

delivered to each member of the family, after which 
a lively exchange was carried on in the house for the 
next fortnight — resulting in a general satisfaction all 
round. There were musk, ambergris, numerous 
Oriental oils, otfcar of roses and rosewater, saffron 
(which, mixed with other ingredients, is used for 
dressing the hair), silks of all colours, gold and silver 
thread for fancy work, gilt and silver buttons —in 
short, every article an Arab lady could desire — besides 
which, to refund the outlay for various trifles, a cer- 
tain sum of money (in Maria Theresia dollars) was 
paid over to each, varying according to rank and age. 

Sometimes it happened that an extravagantly 
fashionable lady spent more in the course of a year 
than she could well afford — in which case she would 
have to appeal to father or husband for help. Such 
requests were always kept very secret, for the lords of 
Arabian households are as averse to recklessness as 
their Northern brethren, and although the petitioner's 
request was generally granted, it was also accompanied 
with a wholesome reprimand. 

Of course there were also people of economical pro- 
pensities among the members of our household, and 
these were of opinion that keeping slaves for mere 
show — a custom with people of rank and wealth — 
is a great piece of extravagance. They, therefore, had 
their young women-slaves instructed in different 
branches of trade, such as dressmaking, embroidering, 
and lace-making, while the boys were employed in 
saddlery, carpentering, and so on. The owners of 
such slaves managed thus to greatly reduce their 
expenditure, whilst those who were less provident gave 



84 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

their work out to be done, and paid heavily in pro- 
portion. The slaves who had been brought up to some 
kind of trade were more highly valued than those who 
had not had this advantage, and were better able to 
make a living when freed. In Oman, where but few 
slaves are kept, it is a standing rule to have them 
taught a trade that will be of use to their masters as 
well as to themselves. For this reason, slaves are 
frequently sent from Zanzibar to Oman for a practical 
education. A negro or a negress of this class always 
obtained a higher price. 

If any visitors happened to be staying with us at 
the time of distribution, they always received, by my 
father's orders, a share of the presents, and even of 
money — the residue of the cargoes being put aside in 
store for our numerous relatives that came to see us 
from Oman in the course of the year. 

Our yearly outfit was of course adapted to, and very 
much simplified by, our close proximity to the equator, 
where we only know the four seasons by name. It 
would Lave been rather a difficult matter to provide 
garments for autumn, winter, and spring wear all at the 
same time. The only winter we have is the rainy 
season for some six or eight weeks, with a temperature 
as low as 70° F. During this more wet than cold 
season, velvets and stouter materials are worn. 

All clothing was hand-made, as sewing-machines 
were unknown in my time. All dresses rejoice in a 
uniformly simple cut, alike for men and women, 
differing only in materials and trimmings. The 
abomination of tight-lacing, or lacing of any kind, has 
not yet found its way into the elegant world of the 



YEARLY OUTFIT. 85 

East — neither that fickle goddess, at whose shrine 
there is so much blind and reckless worship in these 
enlightened lands of Europe. 

Of whatever rank or station an Arab woman may 
be, her dress consists only of a shirt reaching down 
to the ankles, trousers (not drawers), and a kerchief 
for the head. The material varies, of course. Eich 
people have gold brocades of many patterns, velvets 
and silks richly trimmed. During the hot season plain 
light calicoes or muslins are worn. Shirt and 
trousers are never of the same pattern. The shirt 
must not be too long, that it may not hide the rich 
embroidery of the trousers or the two anklets ; a 
number of little golden bells are suspended from one 
of these, which make a pretty tinkling sound at every 
step. Two long tasselled ribbons hang loosely over 
the back or on both sides of the head, from the band 
that is worn round the forehead. The silk kerchief 
reaches down to the ankles. 

In her walks an Arab lady puts on the " schele," 
which is shawl, waterproof, and cloak, all in one. 
The schele is a large shawl or mantilla of black silk, 
more or less richly trimmed with gold or silver 
borders, according to the wealth and taste of its 
owner. This is the only wrapper an Arab lady uses 
until it is completely worn out, its fashion never 
changing ; even the greatest and richest ladies do not 
possess more than one schele at a time. 

That an Oriental lady, in the idle indolence of her 
exotic home, and in the uncultured condition of her 
mind, should give her finery a good deal of thought, 
does not seem so very unpardonable. But what 



86 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

struck me, years ago, before I became accustomed to 
the fact, was that the ladies I came into contact with 
in my new European home, and who had, I knew, 
from their childhood up, received the most thorough 
and comprehensive mental training — that these ladies, 
I say, should never find any other topic of con- 
versation but the one all-important, all-engrossing — 
dress. 

During the rainy season the great Arab ladies wear 
indoors the "djocha," a kind of cloak of cloth 
trimmed with gold and silver embroidery. It is worn 
open in front, only held together over the breast with 
gold lacing. The elder ladies prefer a Persian shawl 
to the djocha. This is the only covering to protect 
us against the comparative coolness of winter or rainy 
season. 

I may mention that w r e had, in cases of emergency, 
a kind of heating apparatus. It consisted of a brass 
bowl, some 8 inches deep by 12 inches wide, on a 
three-legged stand, w 7 hich was filled with burning 
charcoal, and placed in the centre of the room, the 
charcoal fire producing a very pleasant and mild heat. 
This " mankah " served at the same time to roast the 
green, freshly-gathered cobs of Indian corn. Doors 
and windows were, however, always left open, even 
when we had such a fire in the room. 



CHAPTER XL 



A PLANTATION. 



My father owned forty-five plantations, scattered all 
over the island. Fifty to sixty slaves were employed 
as labourers on most of these estates, and as many as 
five hundred on the larger ones, with an Arab overseer 
to each estate. Two only of the plantations had real 
palaces, six to eight had villas, and the remainder 
merely had houses for the officials, and farm-build- 
ings. For a stay of any length we could only visit 
one of the first. 

During my father's lifetime we could but seldom 
leave the town, and then for a short time only, as he 
was always too busily engaged, and preferred staying 
at home. But as we all very much enjoyed such 
visits to a plantation, we generally teased him till he 
granted us permission to go. 

These excursions always required great prepara- 
tions, since it was no easy matter to provide properly 
for so many people on a plantation some eight miles 
distant, to which all the provisions had to be conveyed 
upon the heads of negro slaves. Several hundred of 
these came some days prior to our departure to carry 
off all that was requisite. To the great annoyance 



88 MEMOIES OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS, 

of our cooks and chief eunuchs, into whose manage- 
ment it was given, so much was destroyed and lost on 
the road, that double the quantity actually required 
had to be sent out. The overseers of the plantations 
we visited always came off very well on these occa- 
sions, for they were allowed to keep for their own use 
what we left behind. 

The night before the start most of us were too 
excited to retire to rest, so instead we went and in- 
spected our lovely white asses which were to carry us, 
their tails having been dyed red with henna. 

But those who happened to have no ass of their 
own had either to stay at home, or to borrow one — 
my father having no time to trouble himself with 
such matters. 

Matters were, however, greatly simplified when our 
destination was a plantation on the seashore, for there 
were plenty of boats to convey us and our provisions. 

These excursions offered the welcome opportunity 
to all the ladies for showing off their finery. How 
they vied to outdo each other in splendour ! Indeed, 
if one of these " belles " had set her heart upon 
wearing a particular new garment, which did not 
come home in time, she would bemoan her dis- 
appointment by staying behind. 

Our start was generally fixed for half-past five in 
the morning, immediately after the first prayer. For 
hours there has been noise and confusion in the court- 
yard below — half-a-dozen voices calling down the 
stairs, and as many shouting back ; slaves tumbling 
over each other, and vociferating loudly — some- 
times even cutting their arguments short by kicks and 



A PLANTATION. 89 

cuffs. And mingled with all these various sounds 
you heard the bray of the asses, intended, no doubt, 
to remind you that they have been saddled for the 
last hour. 

Everything is ready at last, and the animals are 
led into the road, and mounted. The slender and 
weak eunuchs are likewise on horseback ; the black 
slaves, however, are on foot. During the very 
pleasant ride which now begins, many harmless 
tricks are played and enjoyed to while away the hour. 

The whole cavalcade looks very picturesque : the 
white donkeys with their rich trappings of gold and 
silver plates, jingling at every step, their high saddles 
and splendid saddle-cloths, as well as our sturdy 
runners in their clean white robes and their glittering 
muskets. As the sun gets hotter, one of these slaves 
runs by the side of each lady's animal with a large 
parasol to protect the rider from the glare. Some of 
the slaves trot along with one of the smaller children, 
while the bigger ones, who cannot yet ride by them- 
selves, are placed on the saddle with a eunuch. 

We passed through the town at dawn, and kept 
close together as long as we were within the city 
walls ; but as soon as we had emerged into the open 
country, all restraint was over, and we hurried along 
as best we could. However much the eunuchs might 
try to keep the procession together by calling out in 
their thin voices to the riders of very fiery animals, 
we generally arrived at the end of our journey in 
separate small detachments. 

The first and oldest of our slaves and the family of 

the overseer, if he was married, were in attendance to 

7 



90 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

receive us. But the overseer himself, conformably 
with Eastern etiquette, did not show himself during 
our whole stay. 

Fruits Of all kinds were handed round immediately 
after our arrival, and we sat down to breakfast at 
once in the same order of rank as at home. After 
breakfast we separated to amuse ourselves as we 
might, quite unrestrainedly, for here we could wander 
wherever we pleased, since no strangers were likely to 
surprise us in the grounds. Only at meals and at 
prayers the whole company met again. 

Invitations from the adjoining estates soon followed, 
and the ladies from the neighbourhood sent word to 
announce their visits. Invitations and calls were 
always intended for all the family ; while our guests 
were received and entertained only by our elder brothers 
and sisters, every member of the family was at liberty 
to accept an invitation. 

As it was impossible to provide the necessary 
bedding for so many people, everybody lay down to 
sleep on horse and saddle-cloths, their arm for a 
pillow. 

The quantities of eatables consumed on these ex- 
cursions were really astounding. I have already said 
that these were conveyed by many hundred slaves for 
several days ; besides all this, our kind neighbours 
insisted upon replenishing our store daily, in proof of 
their friendly feeling. I need not say that many 
cases of sickness occurred in consequence of this 
bountiful feasting. 

Dear old Ledda, the head of the customs, had 
always shown, though a Banjan, rare loyalty and 



A PLANTATION. 91 

great personal attachment to our family, and nothing 
pleased the grey-haired star-worshipper more than to 
think of some new amusement for us children. He 
never forgot to send us pretty and curious presents, 
ordered from hi3 Indian home, which invariably 
included, besides sweetmeats, several baskets of fire- 
works (fetak). He always sent an extra relay of these 
latter when we made an excursion into the country, so 
that our evenings were made very pleasant, watching 
the effect of the beautiful Indian pyrotechnical con- 
structions. But, failing those, we spent our evenings 
in the gardens, looking on at the games and dancing 
of the negroes. The negro dances are not nearly as 
ugly and uncouth as some African travellers describe 
them. When I first saw Europeans dance I did not 
admire the art either, for the continual turning round 
of the dancers made me feel giddy only to look. We 
generally took them with us to the plantations for our 
evening's entertainment. Their performances are 
very clever, and they are well paid for them. They 
may not receive the fabulous sums that are lavished 
on great dancers in Europe, still they are sufficiently 
well paid to ■ enable them to return to their Indian 
homes in gladness, notwithstanding their extravagant 
habits. They are, however, held in little esteem in 
our country. 

Such evenings in the East are truly romantic. 
Fancy a numerous company of all complexions, 
elegantly dressed — though somewhat fantastically and 
gaudily — standing, sitting, and squatting in all direc- 
tions, laughing and making harmless fun with all the 
unconventional ease of Southerners — the whole 



92 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCES3. 

framed in with the foliage of the most magnificent 
trees, and bathed in the silvery light of an intensive 
tropical moon ! Description fails me to do justice to 
a scene which, however, once beheld, can never be 
forgotten. 

But the hour came at last, though not before the 
greater part of the night was spent, when we felt it 
was time to break the charm and retire to our rest. 

On these excursions we often took a funny little 
French girl and her two wild brothers, fourteen and 
fifteen years old, the children of the French Consular 
doctor. They all three talked Suahely very well, and 
sang most amusing songs. The first time Claire 
came with us, she caused a general burst of laughter 
at bed-time, when she appeared in her white European 
nightgown. We had never heard of such a thing 
before, for everybody in the East lies down to sleep in 
the dress worn during the day — at least, in washing 
dresses, not in a costume made of velvet or gold 
brocade. 

During a protracted stay, our father used to pay us 
flying visits of a few hours at a time, for he always 
returned to town in the evening. On such occasions 
mounted couriers kept up an uninterrupted communi- 
cation between the town and our plantation. 

We rarely undertook these excursions at harvest- 
time, so as not to interrupt the slaves in their labour. 
Cloves have a peculiarity of ripening quite suddenly, 
so that it requires the greatest exertions to gather in 
the crops at the right moment. Kice, too, makes a 
quick harvest, while more time can be taken over 
gathering in the sugar-cane, cocoanuts, sweet potatoes, 



A PLANTATION. 93 

and other produce. Cattle is never used for farming 
purposes, and scarcely any agricultural implements, 
not even the most simple plough, is known. All the 
work is performed by hand ; the ground is dug with 
spades, and the rice cut in sheaves with a common 
little straight knife. The master or the mistress of 
the estate frequently joins in the work during the clove 
harvest, to stimulate their negro slaves, whose inborn 
idleness requires a great deal of shaking up ; but since 
this cannot be done individually, they have a task set 
them, proportionate with their age and strength. 
Anything in excess of this task is rewarded, and the 
shortcomings are punished. The only really busy time 
of the year, then, is the harvest. The ground in that 
gracious clime almost takes care of itself. No manure 
is ever used, except the straw that is sometimes 
burnt. 

The length of our stay was determined by my 
father, and he fixed the day on which, between half- 
past six and half-past seven o'clock, p.m., we had to 
be back in town. The family of the overseer received 
suitable gifts on our departure, which my father him- 
self selected,, and we were always accompanied some 
distance by our lady friends from the neighbouring 
estates. An escort of about one hundred and fifty 
soldiers were sent to meet and conduct us into the 
city. In spite of their heavy accoutrements (every 
man carried musket, shield, lance, sword, and dagger) 
they always managed to keep pace with our beasts. 

We were not allowed to neglect our evening prayers, 
even during the journey. The company halted some- 
where near the town, generally at Ngambo, or at 



94 



MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 



Muasimodja, and prayers were said in the open air on 
mats which everybody carried for the purpose. Sup- 
posing a mat was lost or left behind, the worshipper 
would kneel on the giant leaf of amoz tree (plantain), 
as none other but a vegetable substance may be 
used. 

When it was dark a number of very large lanterns 
were lighted ; then we once more resumed our saddles 
and entered through the gates like a procession from 
fairyland. 



CHAPTER XII. 

MY FATHER'S VOYAGE. 

I was about nine years old when my father determined 
to visit his old empire of Oman, on a tour of inspec- 
tion, as was his wont in the course of every three to 
four years, my eldest brother, Tueni (incorrectly 
called Sueni at times) acting as regent and head of 
the family at Mesket. 

There was besides an urgent reason this time for 
my father's voyage. The Persians had made several 
incursions in the neighbourhood of Bender Abbas, 
which, though of little account in themselves, might 
easily have caused complications of a more serious 
nature. This small territory in Persia, rather impor- 
tant from the fact of its commanding the entrance to 
the Persian Gulf, had not only given infinite trouble, 
but proved a great expense to my father ever since his 
occupation of it. We were deprived of it again by 
the Persians at a later date, which was hardly a matter 
for regret ; there was no peace for us till they had 
succeeded, neither could we blame their efforts. 

We owned no steamers at the time I speak of, 
and the departure of our sailing-ships was retarded 
by the absence of fair wind. It took at least eight or 



96 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

ten weeks before all preparations were completed and 
all the provisions put on board ; the baking of the 
captain biscuits alone took up much time, as about 
one thousand persons had to be provided for ten 
weeks. Salt beef we did not know, and preserves were 
of no use, as they were " haram " (i.e., unclean, accor- 
ding to our dietary laws) ; it was therefore necessary 
to ship an immense quantity of live stock, and a dozen 
milk cows ; it is impossible to state what were the 
quantities of fruit supplied by our forty -live planta- 
tions for the voyage, but they amply account for the 
many cases of dysentery which occurred. 

All sons had permission to join in an expedition of 
this kind; but only few of the daughters, on ac- 
count of the inconveniences caused by women in 
travelling; and only a couple of the most favoured 
Sarari. 

Few of us cared much about going to Oman, as the 
proud Oman ladies rather regarded Zanzibar women 
as uncivilized creatures. Even our brothers and 
sisters there were not free from this conceit, and all 
the members of our family born in Oman thought 
themselves much better and of higher rank than any 
of their African relations. In their opinion we were 
somewhat like negroes, as we had been brought up 
amongst these ; and our speaking any other language 
but Arabic was the greatest proof of barbarity in their 
eyes. 

A great number of my brothers and sisters and 
countless relations lived in Oman, most of the latter 
in reduced circumstances, and supported* by my 
father's bounty. All these expected presents on his 



MY father's voyage. 97 

arrival, and, in consequence, his luggage was some- 
what formidable. 

It was also a welcome opportunity for sending 
messages to friends in distant Asia, with whom none 
but the feeblest correspondence had been kept up. 
The general ignorance in writing was a great hin- 
drance to this, and it can hardly be conceived to what 
straits most people were put to meet this difficulty. 
They had to get their letters written by strangers, and 
strangers again were employed to read them. The 
services of my brothers and of all the male slaves 
conversant with the art where at such times in great 
demand ; but if, from pressure of work or from un- 
willingness, not an unfrequent case, these services 
could not be secured, then the compositions were en- 
trusted into the hands of utter strangers. Needless 
to say that such epistles must have greatly fallen short 
of what would be considered private and confidential 
in this countiy. 

The following may, for instance, prove a case in 
point. A fine lady calls up her body-servant and says, 
" Feruz, go to such or such a Kadi, and ask him to 
write a beautiful letter to my friend in Oman for me ; 
pay him whatever he asks for it." Then Feruz is told 
quite a number of things which the Kadi is to put into 
the letter. The Kadi, however, may be greatly pressed 
for time, as he has a dozen such letters or more on 
hand, therefore it can hardly be a matter of surprise 
that he jumbles up the different orders. And Feruz 
returns in triumph to his mistress : " Here are your 
letters, Bibi ! " The lady, however, being of a cautious 
turn of mind, goes to some literate person, and desires 



98 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

to know what the letter contains. But picture to 
yourself her amazement and indignation when she 
hears that the letter, which was intended to convey 
her congratulations upon some joyful event, is couched 
in terms of the deepest condolence. Or in another 
instance the case may have been exactly reversed. 
Consequently nearly every letter has to be written 
over several times and by different people, until it 
contains at last something of the desired meaning. 

Everything was ready at last. The ship Kitorie, 
i.e., Victoria (in honour of Her Majesty Queen Vic- 
toria), was to convey my father and his family ; 
and two or three other vessels took on board his 
retinue, the servants, and the luggage. This was 
but a small fleet to carry such a crowd of pas- 
sengers. However, Eastern travellers require very 
little room and no cabin of their own ; everybody 
looks out for a place on deck at night where he can 
lie down and go to sleep on his mat. 

The retinue and the slaves embarked first; next 
followed the women about five o'clock in the morning ; 
and, lastly, my father with his sons at noon. My 
brothers Chalid and Madjid, with some of the younger 
ones, accompanied the travellers on board, and re- 
mained there until the ships weighed anchor, the 
Kitorie firing a last parting salute of twenty-one guns 
to the country and to the family collected on the 
shore. 

The house settled down now to great quiet, though 
it was as crowded as before. Every one felt the 
absence of the head of the family, and we led hence- 
forth a somewhat retired life. My brother Chalid, as 



MY FATHERS VOYAGE. 99 

the eldest of the remaining sons, now reigned in Zan- 
zibar in my father's place ; several times a week he 
came to see us to assure himself of our welfare, and 
he went a3 often to Bet il Mtoni to look after its in- 
mates there, but especially to receive any orders our 
exalted step-mother might wish to give. 

As head of the family, Chalid was very strict, and 
we often had reason to complain of his harsh measures. 
It may suffice to mention two instances here. A fire 
broke out at Bet il Sahel once, which was fortunately 
soon extinguished. When it began we all rushed to 
the gates in our terror, but found them locked and 
guarded by soldiers, who had been ordered there by 
Chalid, to prevent our being recklessly exposed to 
public view in the broad daylight. 

Another time he rudely turned a distant relation of 
ours, who possessed great influence in Zanzibar, out 
of the mosque because he had dared to propose for one 
of my sisters in that building, nor was the poor suitor 
permitted to show himself for months after, either in 
the daily assembly or in the mosque to which Chalid 
went to prayers. It however came to pass that the 
rejected suitor married another sister of ours some 
years later, after Chalid' s and my father's decease. 

The latter had appointed my sister Chole to act as 
lady superintendent during his absence both in Bet il 
Sahel and Bet il Mtoni, to the great annoyance of 
many. It may well be conceived that this " bright 
star " of our house felt anything but comfortable in 
her new position, reaping nothing but ingratitude and 
jealousy from her office, since, notwithstanding her 
sweetness of temper, she found it impossible to please 



100 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

everybody ; few only were reasonable enough to con- 
sider that hers was but a limited power. It was no 
fault of hers that she was so much preferred by my 
father ; unfortunately, however, envy was too strong — 
it positively blinded all reason in her opponents. 

In the meantime our vessels had sailed several 
times between Oman and Zanzibar, and brought news 
and presents from our father, which always created 
much joy and pleasure in our midst. 

Unfortunately, our brother Chalid was shortly 
after called away by our Lord. Madjid, the son next 
in age, now succeeded in the regency, and contrived 
to gain the goodwill of all by his kind and gentle 
manners. 

A vessel arrived at last one day from Mesket with 
the joyful news that our father was about to leave 
Oman for Zanzibar. It soon spread all over the 
country, and caused great satisfaction everywhere, as 
he had now been absent three years, and had been 
missed very much. Those even who were not per- 
sonally attached to him looked forward to his return 
with pleasure on account of the many presents he was 
expected to bring back with him from Oman for young 
and old, and preparations for his reception were made 
everywhere, just as if we were about to celebrate one 
of our great holy days. 

However, the time which was generally allowed for 
the voyage from Oman to Zanzibar passed away, and 
no ships arrived, which caused great uneasiness to us 
and to the whole country. The Arabs are fond of 
consulting so-called seers in the future, and nowhere 
this habit prevails so much as in Zanzibar. I verily 



MY FATHER'S VOYAGE. 101 

believe no gipsies in Europe can in any way equal the 
craftiness and mendacity of their Suahelian brethren ; 
but, then, where else would one find such unbounded 
and foolish credulity to encourage their wiles. 

No means were left untried which possibly might 
help to throw a light on the whereabouts of the three 
overdue ships ; some of the oracles then were fetched 
many miles off from the most remote nooks in the 
country, most of them belonging to the tribe of the 
Wachadimu — if old, they were brought in triumph 
riding on donkeys. 

The most remarkable of all these diviners was sup- 
posed to be a woman, of whom the story went that 
she, or rather her unborn child, could look into the 
future. Such a monster was quite beyond anything 
that had ever been heard of before, and had, there- 
fore, to be procured at whatever cost it might be. One 
afternoon (I have never forgotten the scene) this 
prophetess, appalling and unwieldy in size, arrived. 
Her unborn child was said to be omniscient — it could 
tell what thiugs were on the highest mountain tops as 
well as in the nethermost depths of the sea. Now it 
was to tell us how our father was, and why his return 
was so much delayed. In quite an audible, squeaking 
voice the monster reported its observations, while the 
company stood around spellbound. It pretended to 
see several three -mast vessels far away on the high 
seas steering for Zanzibar ; then it proposed getting 
on one of the mast-tops of my father's ship to see 
what was going on on board. After a while it re- 
ported with full details what every one there was 
doing. Finally it ordered sacrifices to be brought to 



102 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

the spirits of the sea to secure their future favour 
with which to shield the travellers from possible evil. 
As a matter of course the commands of this mysterious 
voice were obeyed to the letter, and the legion of pro- 
fessional beggars with which our beautiful island is 
infested could for several days indulge to their hearts' 
content in plenteousness of meat, fowls, and rice, which 
were distributed amongst them, together with clothing 
and money, as acts of propitiation. 

I w 7 as not a little ashamed at a later time to per- 
ceive that we had simply been duped by a ventrilo- 
quist. At that time, however, we all firmly believed 
in the wonderful child that could reveal the invisible 
and read the secrets of the future as from a book. 
Even now it is not quite clear to me whether the 
woman w r as really a conscious imposter or a dupe 
herself. No one had ever heard of a ventriloquist in 
our country, so that, as no denunciation was forth- 
coming in the shape of a satisfactory explanation, we 
went on implicitly believing. 

In our parts people are fond of everything super- 
natural ; the more mysterious and incomprehensible 
it appears the more faith it receives. Everybody 
believes in spirits, good and evil. At the decease of 
any one the chamber of death is for days fumigated 
w'ith incense, and as it is a general belief that the 
soul of the departed has a longing to return to and 
especially prefers to stay in its former abode, no 
person cares to enter the same in the daytime, and 
flies from it at night. 

Superstition rules supreme. In cases of sickness, 
of betrothal, of pregnancy, on all possible occasions, 



my fathek's voyage. 103 

the help of female prophets is called in — they are 
required to know and to tell if the disease can be 
cured, and how long it is to last, if the betrothal may 
be considered a happy one, whether the expected 
child will be a boy or a girl, and so on. If, as on 
frequent occasions, the very contrary happens, the 
prophetess screens herself behind numerous subter- 
fuges and excuses. She declares herself to have been 
under the effects of an evil star that day, and trusts 
to be more successful next time ; and this explanation 
is made to do — and does do. Certain it is they prosper 
and grow very rich. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



DEATH-NEWS. 



Day after day and week after week passed away with- 
out my father's return ; the only pastime we had was 
to listen to prophecies of the kind I have just de- 
scribed, and which, if they did no other good, at least 
shortened our suspense. One afternoon at last, while 
most of us were engaged at prayers, the gladdening 
news spread that a fisherman had seen several ships 
bearing our flag on the high sea, but that he had not 
dared to approach them on account of the stormy 
weather. That could be no one but our father ! 
All hurried away to dress in their best, which had 
been kept in readiness for weeks. We always expressed 
our pleasure at the return of a dear relation from a 
voyage or from a victorious campaign in this way, 
while we showed our regret at parting by putting 
on our plainest and most simple garments. 

While the fisherman was still repeating over and 
over again that he had reported the truth, a mounted 
courier had been despatched to our high step-mother 
at Bet il Mtoni to inform her of the news. Cattle 
were slaughtered, the cooks had plenty of work in the 
kitchen, and the rooms were freshly perfumed. By 



DEATH-NEWS. 105 

the fisherman's report the vessels might be expected 
to arrive within two to three hours. 

Madjid and his retinue hastened to join his father 
on board. They started in two cutters, battling 
against a heavy sea, which threatened to swamp them 
every moment. They hoped to be back again by 
seven o'clock in the evening with our father ; but man 
proposes and God disposes. 

Time went on. Seven o'clock had long since gone 
by and the vessels were not yet in sight. The whole 
town was in a fever of excitement — we in the house 
were of course the most restless of all. Many of us 
had forebodings of coming evil; still, we never dreamt 
of what we were to hear so soon. It was feared that 
Madjid and his companions had perished in the raging 
storm, and that my father's arrival had been retarded 
by witnessing this terrible accident. By degrees the 
belief gained ground that all the ships, both large and 
small ones, had foundered in the hurricane. Con- 
jectures upon conjectures were made, and nobody, 
not. even the smallest children, cared to go to bed, 
until the absent ones had arrived safe. 

News suddenly spread, which at first no one would 
credit. The whole palace was said to be surrounded, 
and to be strongly guarded, by several hundred 
soldiers. We rushed to the windows in hopes to get 
at the truth of this report. The night was pitch 
dark, and we could distinguish nothing but the gleam- 
ing matches of the soldiers, a sight which did not 
help to pacify us ; moreover, it was said that the 
soldiers allowed no one to pass in or out of our doors. 

What had occurred ? why were we locked in ? of 



106 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

course everybody wanted to know. Who, it was 
asked, had ordered such a measure ? As far as we 
knew, Madjid had not returned ; his house was like- 
wise surrounded by the same gloomy, silent guard 
watching ours, and we could discern his people 
anxiously running about the house with lights. 

We were the worse off, as all the eunuchs and male 
slaves slept out of the house, so there were but 
women and children left. A few of the stoutest 
hearted gained the front hall of the ground floor, 
separated only by a door from the large guard-room 
on the other side of the portal, where they could 
easily speak to the soldiers through the hall windows. 
They, however, sternly refused all information, in 
obedience to their orders ; and at last, when the 
slaves, one and all, lifted up their voices in wailing 
and lamentation, the soldiers threatened to fire on 
them. 

The whole place was in a dreadful state of confu- 
sion ; some women cried and abused the invisible evil 
power that kept us locked up, the most devout ones 
said their pikers, and the children shrieked and 
screamed on all sides and could not be pacified. Any 
one suddenly dropped in on this wild scene might 
easily have taken it for a lunatic asylum. 

Morning dawned at last, and still we had not learned 
why we were kept prisoners and where Madjid could 
be. In spite, however, of the general excitement and 
anxiety, everybody grew orderly at the time fixed for 
morning prayer. But who can fancy our horror 
when, after prayers, we observed our fleet at anchor, 
and mourning flags flying in the breeze ! How can I 



DEATH-NEWS. 107 

describe our grief when the gates were opened early 
in the morning and our brothers entered the house 
without our father ! 

Then only did we realize that the black flags were 
flying for him, and that we and the whole country 
had sustained an irreparable loss. Our dear father 
was no more ! On the passage from Oman to Zanzi- 
bar, surrounded only by a few of his children and 
followers, he had been called away by the Lord, whom 
he had faithfully and humbly served all his life. The 
wound in his leg, from which he had so long suffered, 
had put an end to his existence. 

He had not only been the most loving and devoted 
head of his own family, but also a most conscientious 
king, and a true father to his people. The general 
mourning on his death proved how sincerely he had 
been loved by all. Black flags hung from every 
house, and even the smallest hut fastened up a piece 
of black stuff. 

We soon learned from Bargasch, who had been on 
the same ship, and who had been present at our 
father's death, all particulars of his illness and of his 
end. To him we were indebted that the dear remains 
had not been sunk into the sea, as is ordained by the 
Mahometan law. It was at his urgent request they 
were placed in a coffin and brought on to Zanzibar. 
His great love and respect for our dear father had 
prompted him to take this course, though he thereby 
seriously trespassed against our customs and our 
religion. Our law does not permit the use of a coffin 
either to prince or to beggar — the body is to be placed 
into the earth, and so return to it once more. 



108 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

We were also informed now of the reason why 
we had been so strongly guarded the night before. 
Madjid and his companions had suffered severely 
from the storm, and had given themselves up as lost. 
Their small boats were only built for coasting service, 
so they stood in great peril of their lives before they 
reached the ships they were in search for. When 
they did at last board thek father's vessel they found 
Bargasch gone. As eldest son he had taken the 
command of the fleet, and when in sight of the land 
had quietly gone on shore with the body, to have it 
interred secretly and unobserved in our burial-place. 

There is an old tradition that, disputes on the 
succession to the throne must be settled in presence 
of the body of the deceased ruler, under the suppo- 
sition that the veneration paid to the deceased will 
always assist the legitimate successor. Bargasch 
wanted to be ruler, but knowing that his elder 
brother's claims were better supported, ho resolved 
to act before he could be met with opposition. He 
relied upon carrying out his plan by the force of 
arms, and above all by the suddenness of his opera- 
tions. 

He had, therefore, on landing, ordered the troops 
to surround our house and Madjid's. But his plan 
miscarried, principally because he failed in taking 
Madjid prisoner. Bargasch afterwards tried to plead 
in excuse of his conduct that he had been desirous to 
avoid a revolution. 

Madjid, who had carried on the government of 
Zanzibar since Chalid's death, maintained it now, 
and proclaimed himself sovereign on the following 



DEATH-NEWS. 109 

morning. But doubts still prevailed whether he really 
were our legitimate chief, or whether our eldest 
brother, who always resided in Oman, would not 
endeavour forcibly to obtain the power to which he 
was entitled by birth. 



CHAPTEE XIV. 



OUR MOURNING. 



Many formalities had to be observed during our time 
of mourning. In the first place, old and young people 
had to put aside their costly garments, to replace 
them by coarse black cotton dresses, and plain black 
stuff instead of the richly-embroidered veils. Oint- 
ments and all kinds of perfumery were strictly 
avoided, and the woman who tried to remove the 
smell arising from the dye of her black dress by 
sprinkling over it some drops of rose water or ottar 
of roses was called heartless, or at least frivolous. 
During the first few days none of the grown-up 
people slept in their beds, in proof of their love for 
our departed father, whose body was lying wrapped 
in the cold ground. 

For more than a fortnight our house resembled a 
large hotel. All persons, prince as well as beggar, 
were at liberty to enter and eat. It is an old custom 
to have the favourite dish of the deceased prepared 
on such occasions for distribution amongst the poor. 

The wives of the departed, the legitimate and 
those purchased as slaves, submit to a special re- 
ligious mourning for a period of four months. These 
unfortunate widows have to mourn their husband and 



OUR MOURNING. Ill 

master in a dark room all the time, nor are they 
allowed to step out into the light of day, much less 
into sunlight. A Terike (widow), who is compelled 
to leave her darkened apartment and to pass the 
gallery, throws a thick black cloak over her veil, and 
covers herself up in such a manner that she can just 
see her way. In consequence the eyes get quite 
unused to the light, and it requires always great 
caution to re-accustom them gradually to daylight 
after the expiration of the term of mourning. 

The widows are formally bound .over to their state 
of widowhood by the Kadi, before whom they appear 
deeply veiled, and are released again by the same 
person under like formalities after the lapse of four 
months. On the day on which the widows receive 
back their liberty they pass through a great many 
ceremonies founded on dark superstition, f Firstly, 
they wash themselves all at the same time from head 
to foot, while the women slaves stand behind their 
mistresses beating together two sword blades over 
their heads (poor people use nails as a rattle, for it 
must be an iron substance) .") The number of my 
father's widows beiug too large to enable the per- 
formance of this ceremony within the baths, it had 
to be done on the beach, and a very curious spectacle 
it was. 

The widow now puts on other clothing, and not till 
then is she free to marry again. All the male mem- 
bers of our family and our slaves had had free access 
to the house up till then, but after the lapse of these 
four months our mothers were only visible to our 
brothers alone. 



112 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

During the first year of our mourning some of us 
regularly visited our father's tomb every Thursday, 
on the eve of the Mahometan Sunday. The tomb 
was a square building supported by a cupola, in 
which several of our brothers and sisters had been 
buried before. After saying the first Sura of the 
Kuran (the Mahometan Lord's Prayer) and other 
prayers, and after calling upon the Almighty to have 
mercy upon the departed, and to forgive their sins, 
ottar of roses and other essences are sprinkled over 
the graves, which are also fumigated with amber and 
musk amidst loud lamentations. 

The Mahometan has an implicit faith in immor- 
tality, and believes that the soul of the dead is 
allowed, unobserved of course, occasionally to revisit 
its former abode. For this reason people like to visit 
the graves of their dead, to keep up intercourse with 
their immortal souls by imparting to them all their 
own joys and griefs. Their memory is honoured in 
every way ; and a Mahometan who swears by the 
head or by the name of his dead, would sooner perish 
than turn false to his oath. 

During the mourning of our mothers, everything in 
our house remained unchanged, and no business was 
allowed to be transacted. Moreover, everything had 
first to be settled with our relations in Oman, to 
whom a vessel had been despatched with the news of 
our loss. Of course we discussed the question every 
day how Tueni would act, who, as the eldest son, was 
the legitimate successor to the government : whether 
he would come to some amicable arrangement with 
Mad j id, or involve us in a family feud. 



OUR MOURNING. 



113 



Some months later our brother Mhammed arrived 
as the representative of all our brothers and sisters 
in Oman, to arrange about the division of the in- 
heritance. He returned to Mesket immediately after 
having settled this matter. Mhammed was considered 
the most pious of our whole family, who from his 
early youth had never cared for worldly things. 
Averse to all show and splendour, and perfectly in- 
different to worldly goods, he had never been happy 
in his station as prince. Disdainful of wealth, he had 
always dressed very plainly, and nothing vexed him 
more than the luxury and extravagance he met with 
at Zanzibar, to which he was quite unaccustomed in 
Oman ; he never got over it all the time he was with 
us — indeed, his aversion to his surroundings made 
him hasten his departure to the utmost. In that 
primitive home of ours at Oman he could once more 
resume the life that was suited to his tastes and 
habits. 

The question of the succession was still pending. 
Madjicl, who had the power in his hands in Zanzibar, 
did not seem to trouble himself as to what Tueni, 
who had succeeded in the government of Oman, might 
have to say about his usurped rights ; but certainly 
Tueni never acknowledged him as Sultan of Zanzibar. 
An agreement was afterwards entered into between 
them through the mediation of the English, in which 
the payment of an annual sum by Madjid to his 
elder brother was stipulated. The former, however, 
did not keep to the terms of the treaty, for he dis- 
continued the payment, which he was afraid might 
be regarded as a tribute, and himself as a vassa 



114 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

of Oman. Tueni had no means of defending his 
rights. He had more fighting than enough in the one 
territory of Oman, without engaging in a war with 
his wealthy brother, which must have resulted in the 
utter ruin of his country's resources. Thus, in the 
absence of a satisfactory compact between the two 
powers, Oman and Zanzibar have since remained two 
distinct and independent sovereignties. 

No difficulty had arisen, on the other hand, in the 
division of our late father's private property between 
Mhammed and ourselves. Unlike European nations, 
we do not keep up a State with public funds, or with 
an inland revenue. Neither is there a public ex- 
chequer. All the proceeds arising from customs 
duties are paid into the sovereign's treasury, as also 
those accruing from his plantations, he being the 
largest landowner in the island. From this source 
alone all public expenses are paid. 

In my time there were no income or other taxes, 
nor ground rents, of which there is such a plentiful 
crop in Europe. 

The whole of this private property was divided 
between the brothers and sisters ; even the men-of- 
war were included and accounted for in Madjid's and 
Tueni's shares, who took them over at a certain 
valuation. The Mahometan law of inheritance 
favours sons much more than daughters, for the 
reason that a man has to maintain a family, which a 
woman has not. Each of the sisters received in 
consequence only half of what fell to the share of our 
brothers. 

My brother Ealub, my old playmate at Bet il Mtoni, 



OUR MOURNING. 115 

and myself were declared of age at the same time, 
though we were neither quite twelve years old. 
This was rather early, even with our customs, hut the 
times were exceptional ones, and many unlooked-for 
changes took place in our family. Both of us re- 
ceived our share of the inheritance, and we had now 
to manage for ourselves, young as we still were. 
Madjid acted as guardian to our younger hrothers 
and sisters, whose property he undertook to manage. 

In his last will my father had directed that those 
of his widows who had no children should receive 
an annuity for life, while those who had children 
were to have a capital paid down, which, how- 
ever, was comparatively small. It was no doubt 
his intention that the children should make a 
home for their mothers, whose limited incomes 
made this dependence absolutely necessary. But 
our father had judged us correctly. I am happy to 
state, to the honour of all (there were thirty-six of 
us alive at the time of his death), that none failed 
in their trust. Our mothers were loved and honoured 
as before, and not one of us ever took undue advantage 
of the favoured position in which we found ourselves. 
Indeed, such an act would have justly deserved con- 
demnation — for may she have been a born princess 
or a purchased slave, no one can replace our mother ; 
she needs neither rank nor wealth with her child ; 
with love and respect alone can we in a measure 
repay the sacred debt we owe her. 

Shortly after the division of the inheritance our 
house, so crowded up to this time, became rather 
lonely and empty. A number of my brothers and 



116 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

sisters, with their mothers and their personal slaves, 
removed from Bet il Sahel to set up house for them- 
selves. As my sisters Chole, Schewane, and Asche 
were still staying on, I continued to live with my 
mother at Bet il Tani for some time more. 

There were also many changes at Bet il Mtoni. 
Zemzem removed to her estate until she married, 
and Metle went to hers. It was indeed high time 
that those of us who were now independent left the 
large houses to make room for our younger brothers 
and sisters. 

During our father's lifetime we had all, figuratively 
speaking, helped ourselves out of one dish, but things 
were now completely changed. Those who had re- 
ceived their share of the inheritance were supposed 
to manage for themselves henceforth ; the old aspect 
remained the same only for the little ones, their 
mothers and slaves, and for the widows without 
children. It was Madjid's business to look after 
these now, for which purpose their allowances were 
given into his keeping. 



CHAPTEE XY. 

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 

In the course of my narrative I have already spoken 
of several of my brothers and sisters. I do not know 
how many I had in all, as a great number died before 
my father, but I have reason to think that their total 
was about one hundred. Thirty-six of them were 
alive when my father died, eighteen sons and eighteen 
daughters. It would hardly be interesting to the 
reader to be told the history of each one. But I 
cannot refrain from describing some of them, feeling 
convinced that I shall thereby be able to invest the 
picture of my old home with some life and colouring. 

1. Scharife. 

My father, who was the head of and personally 
conducted all the affairs of government, found little 
leisure to occupy himself with his younger children, 
but to the grown-up ones he was all the more lovable. 
It made the little ones very jealous to have to remain 
standing before him like little waxworks while the 
elder sisters were allowed to sit on the sofa by his 
side. The object of my bitterest envy was my sister 
Scharife, and the thorn in my brother's side was 
Hilal. 



118 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCE3S. 

Scharife, the daughter of a Circassian, was of 
dazzling beauty, with a complexion fair as a 
European's. She was very clever besides, and a 
much trusted adviser of my father's, who consulted 
her on every important matter, and, as I was told 
afterwards, he never once regretted having followed 
her advice. This surely proves that woman in the 
East is not quite a cipher. 

For a short period only they had a slight disagree- 
ment. Following her own inclination, Scharife had 
married a cousin of ours who did not appear to my 
father to possess those qualities of character which 
he clesired in the husband of his darling daughter. 
At first she kept aloof from her paternal home until 
my father's displeasure had subsided. She had, 
however, made a happy choice, and remained the 
only wife of her husband; her one child, Schaun, 
a very beautiful boy, whom she passionately loved, 
but brought up very strictly, was my playmate. 
Every Friday he came to us with his mother, always 
bringing me some trilling gift, in particular when the 
ships came from Mesket with the Monsoon (Arab, 
Mossem). Scharife had many relations there, and 
was very fond of Mesket, where she died, having 
accompanied our father on his last trip to that place. 

2. Chole. 

When I went to Bet il Sahel first, Chole became my 
favourite in place of Scharife. She was also a special 
pet of my father's, whom she had won by her charm- 
ing manners, her grace and bright spirits. I have 
never met with a more perfectly moulded figure. 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 119 

She dressed with great taste, and everything seemed 
to suit her. In plain cotton dresses she eclipsed 
all others wearing the most costly garments. Her 
opinion on all matters of fashion was considered as in- 
fallible as that of the Empress Eugenie in her time. 

Her mother, who was from Mesopotamia, was so 
clever and circumspect, that my father appointed her 
superintendent of the household at Bet il Sahel. 
Chole had much to suffer from her sister Asche, who 
was considerably older, but she bore all with meek 
patience. ( She always turned a. deaf ear on those 
people who wanted to slander Asche in her presence. 
It was only I who knew how deeply pained she was 
by her sister's conduct, for in spite of my youth she 
confided all her sorrows to me, and I knew all her 
secrets. She often said to me with tears : v " 0, Salme, 
what have I done, and how can I help it that my 
father is pleased to favour me ? Do I not share with 
her all the presents he gives me ? And am I to 
blame that he always requires my services ? " 

I am sorry to say there were many in the house 
who regarded her with the same envious feeling. 
Sweet words were not wanting to court her interces- 
sion with my father, but as soon as the desired end 
was attained her ungrateful suppliants again resumed 
their unloving attitude. She assisted her mother in 
superintending the household, and later on was her- 
self called to fill this office, and, as it was impossible 
to please and satisfy everybody in such an overcrowded 
palace, there were opportunities enough for complaints. 
If among our huge supplies of provisions there should 
be found a flaw in either fish, flesh, fowl, or fruit, it 



120 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

was Chole's fault ; if some of the purchases made for 
the house and distributed failed to give unequivocal 
satisfaction, the fault was laid at Chole's door; or 
even if the crop of roses in Turkey had failed, causing 
a short supply of rose-water and of ottar of roses, 
Chole was blamed and held responsible for it. 

But the greatest soreness of all was caused by my 
father taking her with him into the treasure- chamber, 
or by sending her there by herself. So spiteful were 
her enemies that I verily believe they would have 
liked to have her searched on leaving it, as they do 
the pearl fishers in the Persian Gulf. Her numerous 
antagonists were very much startled one day by the 
news that my father had made her a present of a 
splendid and very precious crown, which he had ex- 
pressly ordered from Persia for her. This magnificent 
diadem was made of golden palm leaves, richly set 
with diamonds, decreasing in size from the large 
centre stone. It was of a shape that could not be 
worn with our head-dress, and it was intended more 
as a valuable investment in case of need. It may be 
conceived that the possession of so splendid an orna- 
ment only increased the number of her adversaries. 
My father's marked preference was greatly censured 
and resented; and yet not even his great loving 
heart could have distributed such love among all his 
children in equal shares. 

All this bitter feeling it would seem only brought 
out the goodness and sweetness of Chole's disposition 
— the most cruel shafts she turned off with a gentle, 
forgiving hand. As for revenge or retaliation, they 
never entered her head. She used merely to say: 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 121 

"Well, I shall be content if only my father approves 
of my doings." 

Chole took care of me faithfully, as long as I was 
a child, and afterwards she was my dearest friend. 
Our friendship became closer still when she removed 
to Bet il Tani after my father's death. We lived and 
dined together, talked till late at night, and then 
retired to rest by each other's side. It will be shown 
further on how great an influence she had gained over 
me. After my reconciliation with Madjid our intimacy 
was troubled for a short time only, but after that she 
loved me all her life. After my husband's death in 
1871, she had a letter written to me (she could not 
write herself), in which she asked me to send her one 
of my children for adoption, to which I could not 
accede, as the child would have had to become a 
Mahometan. 

Her liberality and kindness had grown quite pro- 
verbial. She treated her servants very well, pardoned 
all their faults, and always interceded for other 
people's slaves. I had a Nubian slave from Mesket, 
who was a splendid cook, and who gave me great 
satisfaction, in that respect ; but I soon found it 
impossible to keep her, as every article she could lay 
hands upon vanished. No admonitions or even con- 
victions of her guilt could alter her propensities, so 
that at last I decided to sell the thief. No sooner had 
Zafrane, as she was called, heard this, than she 
escaped one night to Chole's estate, to beg and pray 
her to intercede. Indeed, she managed so well to 
touch my sister's heart, that I had to keep the dan- 
gerous person out of regard for Chole. 



122 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Chole, who had not inherited more than any of us, 
hought with her share one of our finest plantations, 
which my father had heen in the habit of visiting 
most. There was a beautiful palace, splendidly 
furnished, on the estate, which, however, was not a 
valuable property, though she had to pay a high price 
for it. But in memory of the great love our father 
had always shown to her she was willing to make any 
sacrifice in order to possess herself of his favourite 
resort. She went every year to her plantation, called 
Sebe, for the clove harvest. I look back with great 
delight on those days, when we used to walk about 
the fragrant gardens hand in hand, talking to the 
numerous children of the slaves, or looking out from 
the windows to watch the people at work. 

My father's richly-furnished room was never occu- 
pied, and w r as only opened and shown to distinguished 
visitors at their special request. 

Chole was very hospitable to the many people who 
were attracted by the beautiful situation of Sebe. 
She had some of the rarest exotic plants in her 
gardens, which were kept by her faithful overseer in 
the same state as in my father's time. 

A very pretty stone building had been put up just 
outside the high garden- wall, overshadowed by a 
magnificent tree, higher than the tallest oak-trees in 
Europe. This building contained one saloon only, 
paved with marble, mirrors covering the walls up to 
the ceiling ; and it was furnished with bamboo chairs 
and numerous coloured lamps. When at Sebe, my 
father used to receive his visitors and take coffee in 
this place. We could now quietly visit this beautiful 



ABOUT SOME OP MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 123 

shady spot, enjoy ourselves like children, and talk of 
our dear departed parent. 

My dearly beloved Chole, she, the object of such 
great love and such bitter hate, is of this world no 
more ; I lost her in the year 1875. It is said that 
she fell a victim to a dastardly act of poisoning, but 
that belief is too much shrouded in mystery to give 
it foundation. She will always be with me in spirit. 

3. Asche. 

It rarely happens that two real sisters are more 
whimsically endowed by nature, than were Chole and 
Asche. The latter was small and dark, Chole tall 
and fair ; Asche was pockmarked, while her sister 
possessed a countenance of perfect Oriental beauty. 
Asche was reserved and even cold in manner, Chole 
a radiant sunbeam, though perhaps she was not so 
clever as her sister. A greater contrast could not 
well be conceived, and it was difficult sometimes to 
convince our Asiatic relations that they were really 
sisters. 

Poor Asche was very well aware of her plainness, 
and the marred expression of her features ; and for this 
reason she never appeared unveiled, even to her 
relations and servants. For the same reason she did 
not pay much attention to her outward appearance, 
and, for her station, she dressed very plainly and 
even meanly. One Abyssinian female slave, very 
clever as a hairdresser, attended her in this capacity, 
also as milliner and lady's-maid all in one. 

She was, however, reputed far and wide as a person 
of refined culinary taste, and she kept, indeed, the 



124 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

best table for miles round. Young people were 
frequently sent to learn the secrets of cookery from 
her cooks, and my brother Madjid partly boarded with 
her, getting five or six dishes daily from her place, 
for which he paid a fixed sum monthly. 

On account of her good common-sense she was often 
chosen to settle disputes, and very clear her judgment 
was, too. She was a capital manager, and kept her 
financial affairs in exemplary order, for which few of 
us deserved praise. Her exchequer was never at an 
ebb, not even before harvest-time, which we always 
looked forward to as the tide in our purses. It is 
true that persons of extravagant habits put a very 
uncharitable construction on her possessions : they 
said she was miserly and selfish. 

Poor Hilal was her favourite brother. She was 
devotedly attached to him and took a motherly care 
of his eldest son, Sund, after his death. 

4. Chadudj. 

Chadudj, Madjid's sister, is already known to the 
reader. She was much better liked than Asche, but 
she did not often come to see us, as she lived with her 
brother, whom she very fondly loved. 

In later years she took the mother's place with our 
youngest brother Nasor. With him she went to 
Mecca, weary of life, after Madjid's death, as the last 
refuge of the Mahometan, and both died there within 
a short time after their arrival. 

5. Schewdne. 

When I went to Bet il Sahel, Schewane, though 






ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 125 

older than myself, became my playmate. She was 
very sensible, and possessed a power of expression in 
her eyes that might have- subdued a lion; these 
qualities combined made her play an important part 
in our house. She installed me at once as her 
errand-boy, thrashed me every day, and under for- 
tunate circumstances requited my services with the 
doubtful compliment : " You white ape ! " For she was 
the daughter of an Abyssinian, a race well known 
with us for rudeness and violence as well as for cun- 
ning. I had a " white " mother, and this fact exposed 
me to a good many attacks from my dark-complexioned 
relations. My brother Djemschid had still more to 
suffer from them, for he had not only his mother's 
fair hair, but also her blue eyes. 

In early youth she had lost her only brother Ali> 
who was much more good-natured and more generally 
liked in consequence ; her father and mother died 
within a short time of each other ; and thus, still quite 
young, she found herself alone in a world totally 
different from what she wished it to be. Madjid was 
the only one of her numerous brothers whom she cared 
for a little out of regard for Ali, who had been his 
intimate friend. 

Her majestic figure and the almost classic beauty 
of her features made her a very dignified and even 
imposing personage. She possessed a strong spirit 
of self-reliance, and would never take advice from 
any one, or betray by word or look what she intended 
to do. Thus she fell into the hands of a crafty negro 
slave, who took advantage of her inability to write, 
and robbed her right and left. With all her rough 



126 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

manners, however, she was very charitable, and a 
severe but just mistress to her servants. 

She always tried to pick out and to own the 
handsomest slaves, whom she loaded with the most 
costly weapons and jewels. Everything about her 
showed a fairy-like display of riches and splendour. 

I was the only one of all her sisters who managed 
to get on with her, notwithstanding the bad treat- 
ment I had suffered at her hands in early years. 
Once when I seized a favourable moment to represent 
to her how much she was blamed for her extravagant 
habits, and especially for keeping such a great num- 
ber of slaves, she quietly replied, that she was sure 
she would not live long, and that she intended partly 
to spend her money on the poor, partly on herself, as 
fast as she could, so as to leave us nothing. She was 
very rich, having inherited a considerable fortune from 
Ali, besides her own share, but she always continued 
to live in our paternal home, regardless of the general 
feeling of dislike entertained for her. 

The opinion of her fellow-creatures troubled her 
very little. Though residing under the same roof with 
several hundred people, she took no notice whatever 
of any of them, and only lived for and among her 
slaves. Thus it came to pass that we were informed 
too late of her severe illness. Exasperated at what 
she considered want of sympathy on Chole's part and 
on mine, she refused to receive our visits, and much 
as we were grieved we could not force ourselves upon 
her and violate that firm will of hers. When she 
felt she was dying from rapid consumption, she made 
all her servants swear solemnly that no one should 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 127 

see her in death, except the woman who would per- 
form the last offices. Her commands were carried 
out to the letter, for the moment she expired her 
rooms were locked. We were only admitted after the 
body had been laid out, covered with camphor and 
wrapped in a sevenfold winding-sheet, the face in- 
cluded, as prescribed by our religious rites. Over- 
whelmed with grief, I knelt down by the body and 
embraced it, unmindful of the scared bystanders, who 
wanted to drag me away, and who warned me of the 
danger of infection. 

In spite of the difference of our characters, I really 
had liked Schewane ; I always took her part, for she 
deserved to be loved by all who could overlook her 
rough manner and her eccentricities. Pride and 
ambition were her besetting sins — no wonder she 
made many enemies, especially among her elders. 

Before her death she made ample provision for her 
town slaves and for the upper slaves on her estates. 
She not only set them free, but bequeathed all their 
costly arms and jewels to them, besides one whole 
estate for their maintenance. She did not wish that 
those who had worked for her so long should have ta 
begin life again among strangers, 

6. Mdle. 

Like Schewane, Metle was the daughter of an 
Abyssinian ; but she had so fair a complexion that 
nobody could have guessed her descent. She and 
her brother Ealub were my playmates during my 
stay at Bet il Mtoni. Her mother was totally para- 
lyzed, and could not devote herself much to the 



128 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

rearing of her children ; nevertheless, they turned 
out excellent and worthy persons. 

The poor sufferer was obliged to live on the ground- 
floor, which was intended only for store-rooms, and 
naturally very damp and unsuitable for an invalid 
like her. 

A sheltered place had been erected in front of her 
room, close to the banks of the Mtoni, about a yard 
in height, to which the sick one was carried in the 
day, and where she was attended on by her children 
and her slaves. Her step-children and their mothers 
frequently came to keep her company ; and my 
mother in particular used to read to her from the 
Kuran and other holy books, for, like most of the 
other women who became members of our family after 
they w r ere grown up, she could not read herself. 

Metle and Ealub were a dear little couple ; they 
loved their mother fondly, and only thought of 
pleasing her. Metle especially, my senior by some 
years, was very sweet, and a most unselfish play- 
mate. 

After my father's death she was my nearest neigh- 
bour on her estate, and during our stay in the 
country we met daily. Ealub delighted to break in 
upon us unawares with his friends, and so cause a 
great deal of confusion, as we were not allowed to 
show ourselves to strangers ; and I am bound to say 
he always succeeded ! 

After her mother's death, Metle used to spend the 
rest of the year at Bet il Mtoni, until she married a 
distant cousin in the town. She was very happy 
with her two charming boys, whom she always carried 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 129 

about or had on her knees when I came to see her. 
She was the most unassuming and contented person 
in the whole house, the very opposite to Schewane. 
But even this did not please everybody — her tastes, 
they said, were far too simple for a princess ; to 
which she replied that nothing would change her, 
nor did she consider it at all derogative to her dignity 
or to her station, to treat prince and beggar with the 
same kindness. " What matters it," she said, " if I do 
not choose to be always dressed in silks and velvets — 
am I worth less on that account than my brothers or 
sisters ? Do I not remain my father's daughter at 
all times ? " I must own to my shame that I had not 
sufficient good sense then to understand this kind of 
philosophy, winch I only learned to appreciate pro- 
perly afterwards. 

7. Zejdne. 

Zejane and Zemzem are sisters by an Abyssinian 
mother. I have already mentioned, that during our 
stay at Bet il Mtoni an intimate friendship existed 
between my mother and Zejane, who had a great 
weakness for me, and spoiled me more than my 
mother approved of. Our apartments were far apart, 
and as it took me a long time to get to their rooms, 
I often stayed there all day, to my mother's annoy- 
ance, who vainly sent messenger after messenger to 
bring me back, until she came herself, and in her turn 
stayed all the evening with my sisters. 

Zejane was the first to teach me pillow-lace making, 
at which she was very clever. Alone, or with my 
mother, she invented the prettiest designs, which no 



130 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

one was permitted to see until they had been success- 
fully completed. She made many friends by her 
kindness, and was never tired nursing the sick and 
helpless. 

The days that my father did not spend at Bet il 
Mtoni, the women had permission to go out ; and on 
these occasions Zejane could always be seen in com- 
pany with some slaves, loaded with many presents, 
which she distributed amongst the families of officials. 

It was a very sad parting when we removed from 
Bet il Mtoni, for both Zejane and my mother knew 
well that they would now see but little of each other, 
for Zejane rarely went into the town, which she dis- 
liked. Before we left, I was much with her, and she 
gave me many keepsakes, at the same time exhorting 
me to be always good to my mother. 

I was the more strongly impressed with our sad 
leave-taking, as we had to go immediately afterwards 
to our overbearing stepmother, Azze bint Sef, to bid 
her a cool good-bye. 

8. Zemzem. 

Much prettier than Zejane, Zemzem possessed all 
the good and noble qualities of her sister, who was 
taken away from us much too soon. I only knew her 
more intimately at a later date, when we had become 
neighbours on our estates. She was very practical, 
not given to extravagance, and fond of simplicity and 
solidity — and things prospered more under her man- 
agement than in any other Arab household. I may 
say that, taken on the whole, she came nearest to the 
ideal of a good European housewife. 



ABOUT SOME OP MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 131 

She was very motherly to me, as I had been her 
dear sister's favourite. When I did wrong, she looked 
at me with her large, expressive eyes, and said : 
''What a pity that your mother had to leave you 
behind so young in this wretched world ! Zejane 
would have been a second mother to you, if she were 
alive, and you would have remained a child much 
longer. For after all you are a child yet, with very 
little common sense." And to appease me, she added : 
"Don't be angry with me for speaking to you thus, 
if I do it is only for love of Zejane, to whom you 
were so dear. Others, you see, commit the same 
follies, but I never take the trouble to reprove them!" 

She was of great assistance to me in my farming — 
she rode with me over the plantations for hours, 
and pointed out any improvements she considered 
necessary. Once she turned to my " Nakora," or 
overseer, and said : " Your mistress is a mere child 
still (in Suahely, mhoto) and does not understand 
these matters ; you must therefore look after her 
interests, and my Nakora will always be ready to 
advise you." This was not very nattering to my 
self-esteem, but as she meant well I could not be 
angry with her. 

Zemzem married rather late in life our distant 
cousin Humud. (It is the custom with us to marry 
as much as possible in the family, so as not to be 
linked with people of lower rank.) Humud was the 
same who had once dared to ask Chalid in the mosque 
for another sister of ours, and had been so harshly 
repulsed on that occasion. After Chalid's death he 
made personal advances to the lady, but with no 



132 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

better success — and when he had recovered from 
his great disappointment, he proposed to Zemzem 
and was accepted. They were married immediately 
after, but very quietly, for Humud was exceedingly 
stingy, and not even hospitable, as all Arabs tradi- 
tionally are, though he was one of the richest men in 
Zanzibar. He was fanatically orthodox, and made a 
great display of rigorous devoutness ; but this mantle 
of hypocrisy was seen through by most people, since 
he did not hesitate to commit the greatest cruelties 
on the slightest provocation. For this reason he was 
almost universally despised — and yet no one ventured 
to show open hostility to so rich and influential a 
person. 

After her marriage I saw but little of Zemzem. 
She seemed to live happily with her unpopular husband 
— in her practical way I suppose she managed to get 
on even with him. 

9. Nunu. 

I will say a few words about a sister, treated badly 
by nature, who deserved to be greatly pitied. Nunu 
was the daughter of a Circassian, who received the 
name of Tadj (crown) on account of her marvellous 
beauty. She had been greatly distinguished by our 
father, and became the object of much envy and 
jealousy. When her child, as beautiful as herself, was 
born blind, many looked upon it as a punishment to 
the mother, who had been guilty of being my father's 
favourite. This misfortune bitterly distressed her, 
and only the firm belief that God had so willed it 
made her bear it. Nor was she spared long to her 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 133 

blind child, for soon after she died of a kind of 
dropsy. 

Poor blind Nunu was now quite alone. But in her 
case also the old saying proved true, "that God's 
help is nighest in our extremity." A trustworthy 
Abyssinian slave had solemnly vowed to the dying 
Tadj to look after Nunu and never to desert her as 
long as she lived. She kept her promise in an ex- 
emplary manner, and shielded her little mistress 
from all mischances of life, though she had often 
more than just cause to complain of her. She 
took orders from no one but my father, who in his 
love for the poor blind child took more care of her 
than he had been able to do of his other children, 
and this again gave rise to much envious talk. 

Nunu was the wildest and most unruly child I have 
ever seen, and the terror of all mothers with little 
children. From the age of six until she was ten 
years old, she waylaid all her younger brothers and 
sisters, on purpose — incredible as it may appear — to 
scratch out their eyes ! When told of the birth of 
one, her first question was whether it could see and 
had sound eyes. After a time it was deemed advisable 
not to tell her the truth, and it then pleased her much 
to know that there were others also who would never 
be able to see the sun or the moon. Her little soul 
was filled with the most bitter envy. A very pretty 
little brother of ours was greatly admired for his 
beautiful long eyelashes. His mother having gone to 
dinner one day, and the nurse having turned her 
back for a moment, the child was heard to scream 
fearfully; and upon their rushing back, they found 



134 MEMOIRS OP AN AKABIAN PRINCESS. 

that Nunu had cut off the eyebrows and eyelashes of 
the child with a pair of scissors ! 

No child in the house was from that time left un- 
garded for a single moment. Nunu possessed a 
knowledge of locality hardly credible in a blind 
person, and she moved about with the greatest ease 
and quickness. She was to be found everywhere, and 
as busy as a wicked little fairy. Her greatest pleasure 
was to smash whatever she could lay hold of, china, 
glassware, and particularly our pretty Asiatic water- 
coolers. 

One of her peculiarities was that she insisted on 
being treated as though she could see. When the 
guns announced sunset, she ordered her room to be 
lighted up. She insisted upon selecting her wardrobe 
herself, and when she was being dressed by her servants 
she always stood before a looking-glass. When she 
heard that any one had fine hair, or beautiful eyes 
and brows, she subjected those parts to a critical 
examination, only to observe that she was either 
disappointed or pleased. 

To the great satisfaction of all, Nunu became more 
reasonable and sedate as she grew up, and in conse- 
quence she was no longer regarded with such horror ; 
indeed, she gained on everyone's affection as her 
good qualities began to shine more prominently. The 
poor unfortunate girl lost her faithful nurse soon after 
her parents, and as she could not live by herself without 
some help and supervision, our sister Asche took 
charge of her and kept house together with her. 






ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 135 

10. Schembua and Farschu. 

I must not omit to mention in this place two nieces 
of mine, Schembua and Farschu, who were at school 
with me and who afterwards had the same party 
views as myself. They lived opposite our place, and 
as the streets in Zanzibar are very narrow, we could 
easily talk together from our windows without deaf and 
dumb language — discuss fashions, household matters, 
and politics. In the last case we observed the pre- 
caution of stationing such servants at the corner as 
would not be likely to attract attention, who would 
warn U3 of the approach of an enemy by dropping a 
stick, by coughing, or by a low whistle. About these 
times I shall have to say more further on. 

Schembua and Farschu were my brother Chalid's 
only children, and from their earliest youth they had 
been so fond of each other that they were almost 
inseparable. This brought them frequently into 
conflict with their mothers, who were exceedingly 
jealous of each other. Schembua, some years older 
than her sister, was gentle and modest, just the 
reverse of Farschu, and so sensible that she took 
exciting almost a mother's care of her. 

They were both very rich, having inherited the 
whole of their father's large fortune. In their love 
for each other they resolved not to divide their 
property, but to live together and share their pos- 
sessions. But this arrangement greatly displeased 
Farschu's mother, an Abyssinian, who wanted 
her daughter to shake herself free. Farschu, 
who was very determined, refused to accede to this 



136 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

demand, and declared she was firmly resolved not to 
divide the fortune as long as she and her sister 
remained unmarried. Her mother, deeply hurt by 
this refusal, and finding that things in other respects, 
too, were getting unbearable, left her home and her 
child secretly one day, taking with her only a small 
parcel and a very small sum of money. At first no 
one knew where she had gone, and it was generally 
believed she would return to her daughter after a 
while. But it was soon discovered that she neither 
intended returning to her child nor living by her 
bounty — and would, therefore, gain her living by her 
own work. I have previously alluded to the circum- 
stance that at the death of her husband the widow is 
made almost entirely dependent on her children, and 
that in some cases, as for instance in this, the law 
proves a disaster instead of a protection. 

The place of the unhappy mother's concealment 
remained perfectly unknown as long as her scanty 
means lasted ; and she only came to Bet il Mtoni, 
after having spend her last " Pesa," to see my elder 
sister Zuene, who had formerly been on very friendly 
terms with Chalid. With her she continued to live 
on condition that Zuene would never attempt to bring 
her and her daughter together, unless the latter came 
of her own accord to acknowledge her wrong. Farschu, 
however, remained perfectly indifferent to this state 
of affairs, nor did she take any steps to be reconciled 
when her mother began to sicken. Neither entreaties 
nor even the severest censure took the least effect on 
her. Repeatedly, but in vain, I tried to remind her of 
a child's duty — she remained obdurate. It was almost 



I 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 137 

impossible to believe in so much unrelenting hard- 
ness in so small and pretty a being ; but from the 
flash of her dark eyes one might have guessed how 
inflexible was her resolution. Soon after my depar- 
ture from Zanzibar, Farschu died of consumption, 
and I have never been able to learn whether she was 
ever reconciled to her mother before her death. 

The finest estate that belonged to my neices was 
the grand and superb plantation " Marseilles ; " 
Chalid's predilection for France and for everything 
French had made him select this name. The walls 
of all the rooms, except those set apart for prayers, 
were covered with large mirrors, which had a wonder- 
ful effect when lighted up. The floors were inlaid 
with black and white marble slabs, producing a 
pleasant freshness much appreciated in a southern 
clime. A large collection — such as a clock of very 
ingenious construction, from which dancing and 
playing figures stepped out at the striking hours ; 
glass globes reflecting the most grotesque distortions ; 
large round quicksilver balls like those put up 
sometimes in gardens, and a variety of other works 
of art — gave the palace quite the look of a museum, 
especially to all simple and uncivilized persons and 
to our relations from Oman. Frequently I heard 
expressions of wonder and surprise, such as "Truly, 
the Christians are real devils!" At "Marseilles," 
perhaps the best insight into the real ways of Eastern 
life was to be gained. 

I have spent many a happy day on this estate. 

The house was always full of guests, and as my nieces 

were rather emancipated and very tolerant in religious 
10 



138 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

matters there was no constraint put upon intercourse. 
The cries of the runners and outriders : " Sumila ! 
sumila! " (make room), and the announcing of visitors 
by slaves never ceased. All people here were gay and 
merry, and seemed to know of no care. The amiable 
hostesses often induced ladies to stay for more than a 
fortnight who had only come for three days, much 
to the displeasure of their respective fathers and 
husbands. 

Everybody could spend the day as he or she pleased 
best, without being considered impolite, for it is only 
true hospitality that grants full liberty to guests. In 
the evening about sunset the whole company met to 
stay till one or two o'clock in the splendidly lighted 
saloons, or, on moonlight nights, in the park. When 
there was no moon, piled up stacks of wood saturated 
with palm oil were kept burning in various spots all 
the time. 

Unfortunately, this splendid and pleasant place 
was soon after destroyed. My brothers Bargasch 
and Abd il Aziz fortified themselves in the castle 
during our rebellion against Madjid, and the closing 
and decisive battle was fought here. The estate was 
totally ruined in consequence, and my neices were 
great losers thereby. But their great wealth made 
them soon get over this loss, nor did they like to have 
it much talked about, "as it was not worth while 
losing a word about the matter ! " 

11. Hildl. 

I will speak of two of my brothers only in this 
place, of Hilal and of Tueni, both of them unhappy 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 139 

men ; the one by his own faults, the other a victim 
to his own son. 

It is well that the Mahometan religion forbids the 
use of all spirituous liquors, and our sect, which does 
not even sanction smoking, is in this respect much 
more rigorous than the Turks or Persians. By degrees 
a sad report began to gain credence that our brother 
Hilal, (Newmoon), seduced by Christians and in par- 
ticular by the then French consul, had taken to 
drinking. He then had frequent attacks of giddiness? 
the smell of wine was noticeable about him, and the un- 
fortunate man had not the strength of mind to conquer 
the evil spirit that possessed him. Hilal was the 
favourite son of our father, to whom this caused a 
bitter anguish. He tried to reform the seduced son 
by having him at first confined to the house, but soon 
found himself compelled to banish him altogether 
from our family circle. 

Oar sister Chadudj suffered most of all, as she was 
very fond of Hilal. He still visited her at our paternal 
home after his banishment, but could only gain 
admitance under the greatest difficulties and dangers, 
and when he stayed over-night with her and some 
others, who had remained faithful to him, the room 
was kept dark so that his lights might not betray him. 
No one ever found the heart to apprise our father of 
these visits. He kept him very short to prevent him 
from indulging his vice, but Chadudj assisted him 
largely, though greatly to his own ruin. 

Hilal sank deeper and deeper under his evil passion, 
until he was scarcely ever sober, and he was soon 
released from this misery by death. In spite of all 



140 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

that had occurred, our father's grief for his favourite 
son was unspeakable. He often locked himself up in 
his chamber, and the traces of tears could be seen 
afterwards in the place where he had knelt down to 
pray. Something which had never happened before : 
he gave vent to his grief even in words like these : 
" How great is my despair and my grief for thee, oh, 
Hilal ! " 

Hilal left three sons, Suud, Fesal, and Mhammed. 
The last and youngest was adopted by my stepmother 
Azze bint Sef, who was childless. The boy completely 
won her over, an attempt in which none of us had 
ever succeeded. She had always been reported to be 
mean and ungenerous, and nobody could believe their 
eyes when Mhammed commenced living very extrava- 
gantly, with her money of course. No one had ever 
before dreamt of keeping dogs — he ordered a whole 
pack of hounds from Europe, amongst them such 
splendid beasts as had never been seen in our country. 
His whole time was taken up with these dogs and 
some really beautiful horses. He would not allow 
his favourites to be fed on garbage, but had a separate 
kitchen put up for them, where a variety of food was 
prepared. The fattest fowls, the best joints of meat, 
and the largest fish, were picked out for them. Eeport 
even had it, that his dogs and horses got no water to 
drink, but only champagne. I cannot say whether 
this was true ; at all events people said a great many 
bad things of Mhammed, that were probably not 
entirely without foundation, for his was the refine- 
ment of extravagance. 

Suud had a great weakness for European habits and 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 141 

style of life ; in bis manners be resembled his father 
most. 

The third of Hilars sons wa3 very different from his 
brothers. Gentle Fesal, who had not the luxurious 
habits of Mhammed and Suud, was always so modestly 
dressed that be might sooner have been taken for a 
plain citizen than for a prince. He was of a philo- 
sophical turn of mind, very averse to all material 
pleasures, and always remained a puzzle to bis 
brothers. In after years he bought a small estate 
near my own and often came to see me. He went 
hardly ever to the town without bringing me back 
some small present, if it was only a bundle of fire- 
works, which I liked very much. 

Misunderstood by his brothers, the poor fellow was 
very unhappy ; he had a gentle and noble disposition, 
which is thought much too lightly of in this world. 
But by his gentle and amiable manners he won the 
friendship of all who saw more of him. He had lost 
his mother when very young and had hardly ever 
known true love. " It pains me the more," he used 
to say to me, who, though I was his aunt, was much 
his junior, " that my brothers look on me as quite 
superfluous, and care not one jot for me. I care not 
whether I live or die, for no one will ever miss me." 
My heart ached when I heard him talk so, for he 
really deserved to be loved. How truly happy a 
monastic life would have made this man, who felt a 
stranger in his own land and an alien in the world ! 

No one regretted more than poor Fesal, when I 
yielded to my brother Madjid's request to return to 
the town. In the course of time he had become quite 



142 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

accustomed to telling me of all his thoughts and 
sorrows, as if I had really been a sensible aunt, and 
not what I was, a wild and inexperienced girl. 

12. Tueni. 

Our eldest brother Tueni was born at Mesket, and 
spent all his life in Oman. He never came to Zan- 
zibar, and could not be shaken in his prejudice against 
that birthplace of most of his brothers and sisters. 
Since a Mahometan is not allowed to have his portrait 
painted, a commandment which is strengthened, if 
possible, by superstition, and as photographs were not 
yet known with us at that time, Tueni always remained 
a perfect stranger to those of us who had not been to 
Mesket. We had only heard a good deal of his gentle 
manners, of his courage, and his bravery in war. His 
soldiers idolized him, and his presence alone inspired 
them with confidence. Like our father, he was very 
fond of warfare, and a more accomplished soldier than 
any of my brothers. He had spent the best part of his 
life in the camp, to the great sorrow of his legitimate 
wife Ealie, our cousin, by whom he had several 
children. During my father's residence in Zanzibar, 
Tueni acted as his representative in Oman, but having 
enough to do to look after the defence of the frontiers of 
the empire, he left the real government in the hands of 
our pious second brother Mhammed, who was possessed 
of the same prejudice against Zanzibar. Tueni would 
either fight about Bender Abbas with the Persians, or 
resist the invasions of the wandering tribes of central 
Arabia. These numerous tribes are very poor, and 
most of them live only by pillage. An Arab of the 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 143 

desert seldom possesses more than a camel, some in- 
dispensable arms (such as musket, sword, dagger, 
lance, and shield), one or two iron cooking pots, a bag 
of dates, and at best a milk-goat. The men, young 
and old, carry their arms into battle, followed at some 
distance by their wives and daughters on foot, and 
met after the fight with cool water, milk, and viands. 
Oman was invaded every year by larger or smaller 
hordes, and the country was kept in a continual state 
of activity by them. None but the most resolute and 
energetic ruler could hold his own against their in- 
cursions. 

Such was the state of affairs at the time my father 
died on his return to Zanzibar. Had his death taken 
place at Mesket, Tueni might have been in a position 
to possess himself of the government of Zanzibar, 
instead of Madjid, our fourth brother, who, taking 
advantage of favourable circumstances, caused him- 
self to be proclaimed Sultan of Zanzibar. I have 
already stated that Madjid agreed to pay an annual 
sum to Tueni, but that he soon afterwards withdrew 
from this engagement. His conduct was universally 
condemned, the more so as Tueni's position became 
daily more difficult. The continued campaigns were 
a heavy drain on the country's resources, and just at 
the worst time the supplies from Zanzibar began to 
fail. Money at last became so scarce that he saw 
himself compelled to levy duties on various articles of 
merchandize. Luckily for Oman, public loans, which 
have been the ruin of more than one Eastern State, 
were then unthought of. But even these light taxes 
raised a spirit of discontent, and the malcontents 



144 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

unfortunately succeeded in gaining great influence 
over Tueni's eldest son, Salum, who at last became 
guilty of the heaviest crime man can commit. 

One day when Tueni, after having been to an assem- 
bly, had thrown himself, greatly fatigued, upon a couch, 
to take a little rest, his son stepped up, and peremp- 
torily demanded the suspension of all taxes and 
duties, for which unjustifiable proceedings he was 
naturally called to order. Whereupon this unnatural, 
cowardly son drew a revolver, which he had kept 
hidden until then, and shot down his father where he 
lay! 

But the misguided 3 r outh did not long enjoy the 
fruits of his evil deed— a speedy retribution was in 
store for him. He had hardly installed himself as 
ruler of Oman, when his brother-in-law Azzan deter- 
mined to depose him. He surprised Mesket one 
night, and put the capital to massacre and pillage. 
His action was much facilitated by the great exaspera- 
tion of the people against Salum, as no righteous 
man would take up arms on behalf of a parricide. 
The wild invaders met with little resistance — they 
carried off all they could, and destroyed the rest. 
Salum's palace in particular was sadly wrecked, and 
he succeeded under great peril in escaping on board 
one of his men-of-war, saving nothing but bare life. 

His unfortunate mother and her other children just 
managed to save themselves on board a ship, and she, 
too, lost her all. A young Indian merchant, called 
Abd il Had (servant of the Lord), had the good fortune 
to buy the greater part of her precious jewels for a 
mere trifle from a Bedouin (it was said for about three 



ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 145 

hundred dollars), and the honest fellow restored the 
lost property to the unfortunate princess as a gift ! 

Azzan, the invader, was himself soon after turned 
out by my third brother Turki, and he again suffered 
the same fate at the hands of my younger brother, Abd 
il Aziz (also servant of the Lord). The latter, Chole's 
ward, was much distinguished by intelligence, courage, 
and energy. At the age of twelve he had already 
taken our side in the conspiracy and conflict with 
Madjid, and he lived afterwards for a time in Beloo- 
chistan, whence most of our soldiers used to be 
drafted. He succeeded in the end to restore peace in 
Oman for a short period, but was not able to maintain 
himself in power for long. Turki returned, and 
possessed himself anew of the government, where- 
upon Abd il Aziz sought a refuge again in Beloochis- 
tan, where he still lives. 

Surely a sad page, these family feuds ! They can 
only be understood by those who are personally ac- 
quainted with the ambition of Eastern princes and 
with the passionate dealings of Eastern people in 
general. I, myself, was not to remain a stranger to 
these, indeed among the first I was to be a sufferer 
by them ! 



CHAPTER XVI. 

woman's position in the east. 

Before proceeding with the account of my personal 
adventures, I desire in this p]ace to include some chap- 
ters describing various phases of Eastern life. I do 
not intend enumerating all our customs and habits, 
as I am not writing strictly for instruction ; I only 
wish to enable the European reader to form a more 
correct idea of the prominent features on the general 
aspect of Eastern life. I hope I may not be led away 
to speak of matters wholly uninteresting— though I 
would like to come as near as possible to completing 
a picture that will impress itself on the mind. 

I will turn at once to the most momentous of all 
these questions, to the description of woman's posi- 
tion in the East. I find it rather difficult to speak 
of this matter. I am convinced that, as a woman 
born in the East, people will be apt to think me 
partial, and I fear I shall not succeed in eradicating 
altogether the false and preposterous views existing 
in Europe, and especially in Germany, on the position 
of the Arab wife to her husband. In spite of the 
easier ways of communication in these days, the East 
is still too much considered the land of fairy-tales, 



woman's position in the east. 147 

about which all sorts of stories may be told with im- 
punity. A traveller making a few weeks' tour to 
Constantinople, to Syria, Egypt, Tunis, or Morocco, 
sets about at once to write a big book on the life and 
the customs of the East. He has been able to judge 
only quite superficially of these, and has seen ab- 
solutely nothing of domestic life. He contents 
himself with setting down the distorted stories and 
second-hand accounts of the French or German 
waiters at his hotel, or from sailors and donkey boys, 
and considers these sources of information perfectly 
reliable and trustworthy. But even from these there 
is not much to learn, and accordingly he throws the 
reins over the neck of his imagination, and gallops 
away into fable-land. The only necessary merit of 
his book, he thinks, is amusement aud entertainment, 
which are the sugar-plums between the pages, and 
lure the reader on, and his production is pronounced 
" such a success ! " 

My own experience, I admit, was somewhat similar 
— for I myself judged things in Europe at first by 
their outward appearance only. When I first met in 
European society faces beaming all over with smiles, 
I was, of course, led to believe that the condition of 
husband and wife must be much better regulated, and 
that connubial happiness was a thing much more fre- 
quently met here than in the Mahometan East, 
When, however, my children had outgrown the age 
when a mother's continual presence is more desirable 
than her absence, and I was able to go more into 
society, I soon perceived that I had completely mis- 
judged men as well as the general state of affairs. I 



148 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

have watched many cases of what is called " wedded 
life," in which the parties seemed to be chained 
together expressly to make each other suffer ex- 
cruciating torments. I have seen too many of such 
unhappy cases to make me believe that Christian 
wedlock stands on a higher level or renders people 
much happier than the Mahometan. To my mind 
married life, in the first instance, cannot be made more 
or less happy by any particular religion, or by existing 
views or habits alone ; matrimonial happiness can 
alone depend upon real congeniality and harmony 
between husband and wife. Where these exist, happi- 
ness and peace will always predominate, and from 
them will spring in time that harmonious sympathy 
which wedlock truly ought, and is intended to be. 

Taught by this experience I will try not so much 
to give my own opinion, but to define simply the 
position of women — and of married women in par- 
ticular — in the East. I admit that I know in- 
timately only the state of affairs in Zanzibar, 
and tolerably well that existing in Oman. But 
it is just in Arabia, and with the Arab people, 
that the true Mahometan spirit, upon which the 
views of other Eastern nations are founded, has 
maintained itself most pure, and for this reason my 
description may claim to be applicable to the entire 
Mahometan East, with the exception, of course, of 
such cases of degeneracy which have arisen from, and 
grown out of, a closer connection with the Christian 
Occident. 

In the first instance, it is quite a fallacy to think 
that woman in the East is placed socially on a lower 



woman's position in the east. 149 

level than man. The legitimate wife — the purchased 
Sarari are of course to be excepted — stands in all 
respects on a par with her husband, and she always 
retains her rank, and all rights and titles emanating 
from it, to their full extent. 

The mere circumstance of her retired way of life 
makes the Arab woman appear more helpless and 
possessing fewer rights. But this is a custom exist- 
ing with all Mahometan (and also with many non- 
Mahometan) nations in the East, and the higher the 
rank the more rigorously it is observed. Only her 
father, her sons, brothers, uncles and nephews, and 
her slaves are allowed to see her. When she appears 
before a stranger, or has to speak to him, the law 
requires her to b^ shrouded and veiled ; part of the 
face, the neck and chin, and, above all, the ankles, 
must be completely covered. As long as she keeps to 
this rule she may move about freely, and walk 
abroad in open day. Poor people, who have but 
few or no slaves at all, are obliged, on this account 
alone, to go abroad more in the daylight, and con- 
sequently enjoy more liberty. Ask a woman of this 
class whether she does not mind exposing herself so 
freely, and she will reply : " Such laws are only 
made for the rich, and not for poor women ! " I must 
say that ladies of higher rank often envy their poorer 
sisters on account of their advantages, of which 
especially the women in Oman avail themselves, 
who, owing to the poverty of their country, are pre- 
vented from keeping many slaves. 

I have already stated that the lady of rank too 
may walk abroad in the daytime. For instance, if 



i 



150 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCES3. 

one of her near relations falls sick she may visit 
the invalid veiled ; in the same way she may appear 
before a judge to plead her cause in person, for 
luckily we know nothing of lawyers. But custom 
requires that this right be only put into force in most 
urgent cases, and vanity has a good share in uphold- 
ing it, as the veil disfigures women to a degree, and 
makes them look like walking mummies. 

I fully admit now that this swaddling in the East 
is carried too far, though I cannot say that I find the 
European customs any better. In my opinion the 
want of dress in the ball costume of a fashionable 
lady is carried much farther still. 

It is true that a single woman is an object deserving 
pity. Shut out completely by precept and custom 
from any intercourse with men, and without any pro- 
tection, her position frequently becomes a painful 
one. As she is not allowed to see or speak to her 
own officials and managers, if these be Arabs, she is 
often robbed by them ; and I am myself acquainted 
with several ladies who only married to save them- 
selves from being at the mercy of these frauds and 
impostures. This proves that the seclusion of women 
has its unmistakable drawbacks, and that this also is 
carried too far. There is, on the other hand, a great 
deal of sentimental pity wasted on the Eastern woman. 
She is perfectly unaware that any constraint is put 
upon her, and habit makes the greatest inconveniences 
bearable after a time. 

Pity is also lavished upon her because she has to 
share her husband's love with one or many others. 
By law the Moslem is permitted to have four legiti- 



woman's position in the east. 151 

mate wives at one time, and to marry a fifth if one of 
the former dies or gets divorced from him. Sarari, 
or concubines, he may buy as many as he pleases, 
and can pay for. But I have never met with any 
man who really had four wives at once. Of course a 
poor man can only afford to have one ; the rich man 
restricts himself to two at most, who live apart and 
keep house separately. 

In the East there are, of course, women too who 
know how to take care of themselves ; who first take 
the precaution to inquire whether the suitor to their 
hand has a wife already, and who stipulate the clause 
of a formal promise in the marriage-contract that he 
will wed no other wife or purchase a Surie. 

Practically, and in most cases, monogamy pre- 
dominates. Whenever a man avails himself of the 
full liberty granted to him by law, the relations be- 
tween the different wives become rather uncomfort- 
able. Eufned tempers and envy soon turn into 
raging jealousy with the hot-tempered southern 
women. Apathy and indifference do not create 
jealousy; this comes only when we have reason to 
doubt our power over the object we love and want to 
keep to ourselves alone. Do not these frequent out- 
bursts of passion sufficiently prove the fact that 
women in the East can love more deeply than her 
cooler northern sister ? 

By jealousy polygamy is turned into a source of great 
vexation and torment — and that is well. Many a man 
of sufficient wealth to facilitate this has a horror of 
daily scenes, and therefore he prefers monogamy, 
which acts as a further check to this bad custom. No 



152 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

sensible man, and surely no woman, can excuse or 
defend polygamy. But now comes another question. 
How is it with Christians ? how about wedded life in 
civilized Europe ? I will say nothing of the fact that 
in a Christian state the Mormons, a sect who call 
themselves Christians, are publicly and openly avowed 
polygamists. Is wedlock always considered a sacred 
nstitution in moral Europe ? Is it not bitter irony 
and delusion to talk of only " one " wife ? The Chris- 
tian may, of course, marry one woman only, and that 
is the great superiority of Christianity ; the Christian 
law requires the just and the good, the Mahometan 
allows the evil ; but custom and practice mitigate to 
a great extent in the East the evil consequences of the 
law, while sin is rampant here in spite of it. I should 
say the only difference in the position of a married 
woman in the East and in Europe to be, that the 
former knows the number as well as the characters of 
her rivals, while the latter is kept in a state of con- 
siderate ignorance about them. 

Of course only a wealthy man can purchase Sarari. 
Slaves by birth, they become free as soon as they 
have children. It happens very rarely, and then 
only in the case of very hard-hearted men, that 
the Suiie is resold by her master after the death of 
her child, from necessity or because he is weary of 
her. In case of the husband's death, his Sarari are 
absolutely free and have no other master. And if 
they are married again to a brother or to any relation 
of the deceased, they become, as free women, the legi- 
timate wives of such. 

It is an absolute myth that the Arab husband treats 



woman's position in the east. 153 

his.wife with less regard than is the case here. This 
is already provided for by religion, which, though 
neglecting the wife in some points, recommends her, 
like a helpless child, to the protection of the husband. 
The believing and pious Mahometan has as much 
humane feeling as any highly-civilized and moral 
European ; he is perhaps even more strict and rigor- 
ous to himself, believing in the ubiquity of the Lord, 
who made the laws, and carrying the firm conviction 
to the grave that his good acts and his bad will by 
and by meet with just retribution: 

Certainly there exists in Zanzibar as well as in this 
country the uncomfortable character known as the 
domestic tyrant. But I may state upon my conscience 
that I have heard here a good deal more of loving 
husbands who sometimes think fit to establish their 
argument by physical manipulation. Any decent Arab 
would feel ashamed and dishonoured by such an action. 
It is different with negroes, for I have frequently had 
to separate couples fighting on my plantations and 
make peace between them. 

Neither is the wife obliged to submit unconditionally 
and for ever to all the whims and humours of her 
husband ; in such cases she always finds shelter with 
her relations, or, if she stands alone, she has the right 
to make a complaint to the Kadi in person. Frequently, 
too, she has recourse to the law. 

A lady, with whom I was very intimate, married at 

the age of sixteen a cousin of hers, who was many 

years her senior, but by no means worthy of her. 

Continuing to lead his former gay life, he thought he 

could treat her as he pleased ; but he was not a little 
11 



154 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

surprised when he found one evening on his return 
home a very strongly-termed letter instead of his wife. 
I had always been accustomed to go to my friend's 
estate without being first announced, as I knew that 
her amiable husband was never at home, and preferred 
the pleasures of the town to his wife's company. After 
the above-mentioned occurrence, however, my friend 
called upon me one day to tell me that I could no 
longer visit her without being announced, as her 
husband was again living with her on the estate. 
Eemorseful and repenting, he had followed and im- 
plored her pardon ; and having once learned what a 
determined little wife he possessed, he took good care 
to mend his ways. I could speak of many instances 
of this kind. 

When married people meet they kiss each other's 
hands, and they take their meals in company with 
their children. The wife performs all kinds of friendly 
services for her husband. She fastens on his weapons 
when he goes out, and takes them off again on his 
return ; she refreshes him with cool drinks ; in fact, 
shows him all those trifling acts of attention which 
make life more pleasant and affectionate. But all 
these services are voluntary, and by no means the 
duties of bondage. 

The household stands entirely under the control of 
the wife, and there she is absolute mistress. She does 
not receive a certain sum for house-keeping, as is 
customary in Europe — she has full liberty to dispose 
of her husband's funds. When the latter has two 
wives living apart, his income is equally divided be- 
tween them. 



woman's position in the east. 155 

Of course much depends upon the individual dis- 
position of husband and wife, how far the latter may 
venture in using her authority. I had once invited a 
large party to one of my plantations, but the 
invitations had been issued too late to allow all the 
ladies to order their riding donkeys in time, and I was 
afraid, therefore, many of them would have to decline. 
In this plight a young married lady, a friend of mine, 
at once placed a large number of fine donkeys, fully 
harnessed, at my disposal. Before accepting her 
generous offer I wanted her to ask her husband's per- 
mission first — upon which she very quietly replied 
that she was not accustomed to let her husband 
interfere in such trifles as these. 

Another lady of my acquaintance in Zanzibar had 
still greater control over the household and all the 
property. She managed quite by herself all her 
husband's large estates and his town-houses. The 
latter was not even aware of the extent of his income, 
nor did he consider it derogatory to his dignity to ask 
her for money whenever he wanted any ; he knew 
well enough that he could not do better than leave the 
entire management of his affairs to his prudent and 
sensible wife. 

The education of the children is left entirely to the 
mother, whether she be legitimate wife or purchased 
slave, and it constitutes her chief happiness. Some 
fashionable mothers in Europe shift this duty on to 
the nurse, and by and by on the governess, and 
are quite satisfied with looking up their children 
or receiving their visits, once a day. In France the 
child is sent to be nursed in the country, and left to 



156 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

the care of strangers. An Arab mother, on the other 
hand, looks continually after her children. She watches 
and nurses them with the greatest affection, and 
never leaves them as long as they may stand in need 
of her motherly care ; for which she is rewarded by 
the fondest filial love. Her children repay her in a 
great measure for all the disadvantages of polygamy, 
and their affection renders her life more happy and 
contented. 

If foreigners had more frequent opportunities to 
observe the cheerfulness, the exuberance of spirits, 
even, of Eastern women, they would soon and more 
easily be convinced of the untruth of all those 
stories afloat about the degraded, oppressed, and 
listless state of their life. It is impossible to gain a 
true insight into the actual domesticity in a few mo- 
ments' visit. And the conversation carried on on those 
formal occasions hardly deserves that name ; there is 
barely more than the exchange of a few commonplace 
remarks — and it is questionable if even these have 
been correctly interpreted. 

Notwithstanding his innate hospitality, the Arab has 
the greatest possible objection to having his home 
pried into by those of another land and creed. When- 
ever, therefore, a European lady called upon us, the 
enormous circumference of her hoops (which were the 
fashion then, and took up the entire width of the stairs) 
was the first thing to strike us dumb with wonder ; 
after which the very meagre conversation generally 
confined itself on both sides to the mysteries of the 
different costumes ; and the lady retired as wise as 
she was when she came, after having been sprinkled 



woman's position in the east. 157 

over by the Eunuchs with ottar of roses, and being 
the richer for some parting presents./ It is true, she 
had been to and entered a Harem, she had seen the 
much-pitied oriental ladies (though only through their 
veils), she had with her own eyes seen our dresses, 
our jewellery, the nimbleness with which we sat down 
^on the floor — and that was all. She could not boast 
of having seen more than any other foreign lady who 
had called before her. She is conducted upstairs and 
downstairs again by the Eunuchs, and is watched all 
the time. Barely she sees more than the reception 
room, and more rarely still can she guess or find out who 
the veiled lady is with whom she conversed. In short, 
she has had no opportunity whatsoever of learning 
anything of domestic life or the position of Eastern 
women. 

It is essential to know another fact in order to 
understand oriental wedded life properly. The mar- 
riage of a girl neither changes her name nor the rank 
she has held previously. The wife of a prince, de- 
scended from the family of a simple citizen, will never 
think of demanding equality of rank with her husband 
— she remains always the daughter (bint) of N. or M. 
On the other hand, an Arab prince or chief often allows 
his daughter or sister to marry one of his slaves. He 
reasons thus : " My servant will remain her servant, 
and she will always be his mistress." Only he ceases 
to be a slave after marriage, but he, of course, ad- 
dresses his wife as " Highness" or "mistress." 

If a man has occasion to mention his wife in the 
course of conversation, which he avoids doing if he 
can, he never calls her, "my wife," but always "the 



158 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

daughter of N. N." At best he uses the expression, 
" Um Ijali," i.e., " mother of my family/' whether she 
has children or none. 

It stands to reason that people who marry, being 
previously unacquainted with each other, do not 
always agree ; or there may arise difficult and pain- 
ful circumstances from other causes, such as I men- 
tioned in the cases of my father and Sehesade and of 
Madjid and Asche. In cases like these the Mahome- 
tan law has the great advantage of facilitating a 
divorce. It is decidedly preferable that two people 
completely at variance in their views and disposition 
should be able to separate in peace, to being com- 
pelled to remain chained together — often a cause for 
crime. In such a case the wife has her whole dowry 
returned, the disposal of which also rests with her 
during her wedded state. If the divorce has been 
moved by the husband, she also retains the marriage 
settlement made by him, which, however, she cancels 
on sueing herself for the divorce. 

I trust the above will suffice to demonstrate that 
woman in the East is not at all the degraded or 
oppressed and outlawed being she is generally be- 
lieved ; she is by no means a cypher. What power 
and how great an influence some women may gain I 
have already pointed out in speaking of my step- 
mother, Azze bint Sef. She ruled our father com- 
pletely, and court and public affairs depended in most 
cases on her verdict. All attempts on the part of her 
step-children to weaken her influence completely failed, 
although their efforts were, if at no other time, per- 
fectly united in this aim. Any request of ours, made 



woman's position in the east. 159 

to our father in person, was invariably referred to her 
final decision, even in matters that might be thought 
to have been beneath her consideration. While my 
father lived she ruled with a rod of iron.. 

Here is a case in point : The daughter of the com- 
manding officer of one of our fortresses in Oman came 
over to Zanzibar with her husband. They were pretty 
well off, and had no children — " fortunately," as the 
lady told me herself. She was very clever and witty 
(wit is nowhere more valued than with us) but fright- 
fully ugly. Her husband, nevertheless, adored 'her, 
and bore all her whims and humours with an angelic 
patience. When she walked out he had to accom- 
pany her, whether he liked it or not. He could never 
dispose of his time himself, and in the morning after 
prayers he had to wait for orders from mistress Asche, 
to know if she deigned to remain at home with him 
or intended to go out for the day. He was altogether 
her slave. ~- 

I will only speak of one more member of our family, 
whose history contradicts better than anything else 
all the fabrications about the inferiority of Eastern 
women. My great-aunt, my grandfather's sister, is 
to this day held up as the model of a clever, coura- 
geous, and energetic woman. The history of her life 
and of her deeds is told over and over again to old 
and young, and listened to with awe. 

My grandfather, the Sultan Imam, of Mesket, in 
Oman, left at his death three children : my father 
Said, my uncle Salum, and my aunt Asche. My 
father was only nine years old at the time, and a 
regency had to be established. Contrary to all 



160 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

custom, my great-aunt at once declared in the most 
decided manner that she would carry on the govern- 
ment herself until her nephew was of age, and she 
suffered no opposition. The ministers, who had never 
anticipated such a thing, and who had already in 
secret congratulated themselves on the prospect of 
ruling the country for some years, could do nothing 
but submit. They had to make their reports to her, 
and to receive her instructions and commands every 
day. She closely watched. and knew everything, and 
nothing could remain concealed from her, to the great 
vexation and annoyance of all the disloyal and idle 
officials. 

Personally, she put aside all rules of etiquette ; re- 
gardless of what people might say, she merely wore 
her schele in the presence of the ministers, and went 
her own way with energy and firmness. 

Her courage was soon put to a very severe test. 
Not long after she had taken up the reins of govern- 
ment a very serious war broke out — unfortunately, a 
frequent occurrence in Oman. Some of our next of 
kin had thought it an easy affair to overthrow the 
government of a woman, to extinguish our house, and 
possess themselves of power. Their hordes ravaged 
the country with fire and sword, and advanced close 
to the gates of Mesket. Thousands of country people 
from the sacked provinces had already fled for shelter 
and protection into the city, leaving all their goods 
and chattels behind. Mesket is strongly fortified, and 
well able to stand a siege, but of what use are the 
strongest walls when provisions and ammunition are 
exhausted ? 



WOMAN'S POSITION IN THE EAST. 161 

But in this terrible distress my great- aunt proved 
herself equal to the occasion, and she even gained the 
admiration of the enemv. Dressed in man's clothes, 
she inspected the outposts herself at night, she watched 
and encouraged the soldiers in all exposed places, and 
was saved several times only by the speeed of her 
horse in unforeseen attacks. One night she rode out, 
oppressed with care, having just received information 
that the enemy was about to attempt an entrance into 
the city by means of bribery that night, and with 
intent to massacre all, and now she went to convince 
herself of the loyalty of her troops. Very cautiously 
she rode up to a guard, requesting to speak to the 
" Akid " (the officer in charge), and did all in her 
power to seduce him from his duty by great offers of 
reward on the part of the besiegers. The indignation 
of the brave man, however, completely allayed her 
fears as to the fidelity of the troops, but the experi- 
ment nearly cost her her own life. The soldiers were 
about to massacre the supposed spy on the spot, and 
it required all her presence of mind to make good her 
escape. 

The situation, grew, however, to be very critical at 
Mesket. Famine at last broke out, and the people 
were well-nigh distracted, as no assistance or relief 
could be expected from without. It was, therefore, 
decided to attempt a last sortie in order to die at least 
with glory. There was just sufficient powder left for 
one more attack, but there was no more lead for either 
guns or muskets. In this emergency the regent ordered 
iron nails and pebbles to be used in place of balls, the 
guns were loaded with all the old iron and brass that 



162 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

could be collected, and she opened her treasury to 
have bullets made out of her own silver dollars. Every 
nerve was strained, and the sally succeeded beyond all 
hope. The enemy was completely taken by surprise, 
and fled in all directions, leaving more than half their 
men dead and wounded on the field. Mesket was 
saved, and, delivered out of her deep distress, the 
brave woman knelt down on the battle field and 
thanked God in fervent prayer. 

From that time her government was a peaceful one, 
and she ruled so wisely that she was able to transfer 
to her nephew, my father, an empire so unimpaired 
as to place him in a position to extend the empire by 
the conquest of Zanzibar. It is to my great-aunt, 
therefore, that we owe, and not to an inconsiderable 
degree, the acquisition of this second empire. 

She, too, was an Eastern woman ! 



CHAPTER XVII. 



ARAB MATCHMAKING. 



In Arabia matches are generally arranged by the 
father, or by the head of the family. There 
is nothing peculiar in this, as the same is done 
even in Europe, where man and woman are allowed 
to meet freely. Does it not often happen here that 
a reckless father who has run. deeply into debt sees 
no way out of his difficulties but by the sacrifice of his 
pretty daughter to some creditor ; or that a fashion- 
able, pleasure-loving mother hurries her child into 
marriage for the sole purpose of obtaining an undis- 
puted sway ? 

Amongst the Arabs there are just as many despotic 
parents, who care as little for the happiness of their 
children, or listen to the voice of conscience. But it 
is not abuse of power alone which makes parents in 
those parts choose for their children ; they are com- 
pelled to do so by the retired life of the women; 
though even by this seclusion a meeting with men 
cannot always be prevented. But it is a general rule 
that a girl must not see (except perhaps from the 
window) nor talk to her future husband before the 
evening of her wedding. Yet he has not been quite 
a stranger to her — his mother, his sisters and aunts 



164 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

have had frequent opportunities of describing him, 
and telling her everything aboat him that ma}- be of 
interest. 

Sometimes the young couple have been acquainted 
in early youth, as girls are permitted, up to their 
ninth year, to associate freely with boys of the same 
age. In such a case the young man goes to the 
father of his old playmate to ask for her hand, after 
having secured her own consent through the media- 
tion of his mother or sister. . 

In all such cases the cautious father asks : " But 
where have you been able to see my daughter ? " To 
which the reply is made : " As yet I have never had 
the good fortune to see your honoured (makschume) 
daughter — but I have heard a great deal about her 
charms and virtues from my own people." 

If the candidate does not suit, he is straightway 
refused by the father, though, as a rule, the latter asks 
for some little time to take the matter into considera- 
tion. He does not mention a word at home about 
what has occurred — but secretly and rigorously he 
watches the conversation between his wife and 
daughter. Occasionally, and in quite an indifferent 
manner, he will speak of his intention to give a small 
gentlemen's party in a few days, mentioning the 
names of his friends with as little concern as 
possible if the women require to be told them. If 
they appear to be pleased at hearing the suitor's 
name mentioned, he knows that some understanding 
exists already between the two families. Then only 
he informs his daughter that N. N. has asked for her 
hand, and asks her opinion. Her yes or no are 



ARAB MATCHMAKING. 165 

almost always decisive — only a despotic father takes 
the decision upon himself without waiting for his 
daughter's acceptance or refusal. 

Our father, too, showed in such questions his sense 
of justice, and left his children to decide their own 
lot. A distant cousin of ours, Sund, proposed for 
my elder sister Zuene when she was barely twelve 
years old. My father disapproved of his pro- 
posal on account of her youth, but did not like to 
decline it altogether without having first consulted his 
daughter. Zuene had lost her mother, and having no 
one to advise her, she was so pleased with the idea of 
being a married woman soon, that she insisted upon 
accepting him, and my father gave his consent. 

There are cases, it is true, in which children are 
affianced and married in very early youth. Two 
brothers had agreed upon the intermarriage of their 
children, and, as it happened, they had only one 
child each, the one a son, the other a daughter. 
The marriage w r as already talked of when the boy 
was seventeen, and the girl seven. The boy's mother, 
who lived on an estate not far from my own, a very 
prudent and sensible woman, often complained to me 
of her husband and her brother-in-law, who insisted 
upon her accepting a little child as daughter-in-law, 
wdiom she would have to nurse and educate first, 
while on the other hand the girl's mother was incon- 
solable at having so soon to part with her daughter. 
But they both only so far succeeded as to have the 
wedding postponed for two years. I do not know 
how the matter was finally settled, as I left Zanzibar 
soon after. 



166 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

All friends and acquaintances are formally in- 
formed of the engagement by handsomely-dressed 
female slaves, who, sometimes to the number of 
twenty, go from house to house with the announce- 
ment and the invitation to the wedding, for which 
message they are richly rewarded at each house. 

The paternal home of the bride is now the scene of 
much life and bustle, for the wedding generally takes 
place within four weeks. Under any circumstances 
the betrothal never lasts long, as but few arrange- 
ments are necessary in our blessed South. There we 
know nothing of the hundred and one things con- 
sidered indispensable to Northern people on such 
occasions, and an Eastern bride would become 
speechless with surprise at the sight of a European 
trousseau. Why are people in these parts so very 
fond of loading their new bark with such a quantity 
of unnecessary ballast ? 

The dowry of an Arab bride is comparatively a 
small one ; according to her rank and wealth it con- 
sists of rich dresses, jewellery, male and female 
slaves, of houses, plantations, and ready money. 
She gets presents from her parents, from those of her 
affianced husband, and from the latter himself. All 
this remains her personal and private property, and 
the cost of her dowry is never deducted from her 
share of the patrimony. 

The making of the bride's dresses takes some time, 
for a lady of rank has to change her toilet twice or 
thrice a day during the first week after her marriage. 
A bridal dress, like the white robe and veil here, is 
not worn in the East, but the bride must put on 



ARAB MATCHMAKING. 167 

perfectly new garments from head to foot — the colour 
of the dress is left to her taste. Some appear in all 
the colours of the rainbow, yet their costume is 
neither ugly nor without taste. 

Special perfumes are prepared, which play an im- 
portant part at the wedding feast — the- Ehia, a costly 
mixture of powdered sandal-wood, musk, saffron, and 
plenty of ottar of roses, is used as an ointment for 
the hair, and a pleasant incense, made of tfre wood 
of the "ud" (a species of the aloe), of the finest amber, 
and of a great deal of musk. An Eastern lady never 
can get too many perfumes. 

Then comes the baking, the preparing of sweet- 
meats, and the slaughtering of cattle, which occupies 
all hands fully. 

The bride herself has yet to go through several un- 
pleasant and tiresome ceremonies. During the last 
eight days she has to sjtay in a dark room, nor must 
she put on any of her finery, so that she may appear 
all the more resplendent on her wedding-day. All 
this time she is a much-to-be-pitied creature — visit 
follows upon visit, all the old women whom she 
knows, and her nurses foremost of all, whom perhaps 
she has not seen for years, come to her with hands 
open ready to receive. The chief of the eunuchs, who 
has shaved off her first hair, who is very proud of 
this service of honour rendered to her once, begs to 
offer his congratulations, and returns his way with a 
souvenir — either a costly shawl, a ring for the little 
finger of the left hand, a watch, or some guineas. 

The bridegroom is spared this imprisonment in a 
dark room, but otherwise he has to undergo quite as 



168 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

many trials. All those who have ever been in his 
service or in that of his bride come to him before 
calling upon her, and in this way they obtain double 
presents. 

The bridegroom stays at home during the last 
three days, and only his most intimate friends visit 
him. But there is a lively intercourse between the 
two families — for there is no end to the interchange 
of compjiments and of presents between bridegroom 
and bride. 

The great day appears at last. Generally the 
nuptial ceremony is performed in the evening at the 
bride's house, and not in the mosque. The act is per- 
formed by a Kadi, or, if no such is to be had, by a 
reputedly devout man. It may appear strange to a 
European, that the principal person, the bride, is not 
present herself during the solemn act ; she is repre- 
sented by her father, her brother, or some other near 
male relation. 

She only appears before the Kadi in person if she has 
no male relations at all, to be united to her bridegroom 
with the customary ceremonies. In this case, she 
enters the empty room first, completely muffled, after 
which the Kadi, the bridegroom, and the witnesses 
are admitted. After the conclusion of the ceremony, 
in which the voice of the bride is barely audible, the 
gentlemen leave first to let the newly-married wife 
retire to her apartments. 

All the gentlemen, the bridegroom included, par- 
take of a sumptuous feast. Whilst this lasts, the 
room in which it takes place is richly perfumed with 
incense of ud and of ottar of roses. 



ARAB MATCHMAKING. 169 

The surrender of the bride to the bridegroom does 
not always follow upon the ceremony, but in most 
cases three days later. Numerous persons are now 
engaged in dressing her in her finest garments, and 
at about nine or ten in the evening of the third day 
she is conducted by her female relations to her new 
abode, where the bridegroom receives her in company 
with his male relations. Before the entrance to the 
private rooms, leave is taken with many congratula- 
tions and blessings, and the company then retire to 
the reception-rooms on the ground floor, to celebrate 
the marriage by merrily feasting for several days. 

Some rules of etiquette are always to be observed 
when the bridegroom has entered the bride's apart- 
ment. If her rank is higher than his, she remains 
quietly seated, nor deigns to speak to him until he has 
first addressed her, and meanwhile still retains her 
costly mask, which covers her features. Then, to prove 
his affection, and as a bribe for the removal of the mask, 
the young husband places at her feet such presents 
as his means can afford. A few pence will suffice 
with poor people — but by rich ones large sums are 
spent on these offerings. 

On the same evening, a general entertainment com- 
mences in the house of the young husband, which 
lasts three, seven, and even fourteen days. Friends, 
acquaintances, strangers — all are welcome, and may 
eat and drink as long as they will. There is, of course, 
neither wine nor beer, and even smoking is not allowed 
with the sect of the " Abadites," to which we belong 
— but that does not prevent people from being very 

merry and jolly. There are plenty of good things to 
12 



170 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

eat, and almond milk, lemonade, &c; songs are sung, 
warlike dances are performed, and stories are listened 
to. Eunuchs perfume the rooms with ud and sprinkle 
rose-water over the guests, out of silver dishes. 

The ladies always remain together till midnight, 
but the gentlemen stop all night till the} 7 are called 
away to prayers in the morning. 

Wedding tours are not known in the East. The 
young couple spend their honeymoon quietly at home 
the first week or fortnight, invisible to the outer 
world. After this time, the young wife receives 
visitors, and in the evenings her apartments are 
filled with her female friends, who have come to offer 
their congratulations. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



AN ARAB LADY S CALL. 



I have repeatedly mentioned that we made many 
visits to, and received as many from, our friends and 
acquaintances. It may be interesting to the reader 
to learn a little more of such calls, and also about the 
etiquette observed and the conversation on such 
occasions. 

If we wished to call upon any one, we had ourselves 
announced on the same day by well-dressed female 
slaves ; we rarely ventured to go without having done 
so. In town our visits were made on foot, in the 
country we rode. The finest dresses are, of course, 
worn on such occasions, not only in honour of the 
friend to be visited, but also to exhibit our costumes 
and jewellery — just as it is done here ! 

An Arab lady is not permitted to show her face ; at 
home it is generally, and walking abroad it is always, 
covered by a mask, which is not like those worn by 
Egyptian women, which are ugly, and render respira- 
tion difficult. ; Oar masks are nicely made of black 
satin, trimmed with splendid lace of coloured silk, and 
of gold and silver thread. They are in two parts, the 
upper portion covering the forehead, the lower hiding 
the nose and part of the cheeks. The eyes, the tip 



172 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

of the nose, mouth, neck, and half of the cheeks 
remain free. The mask is fastened with long chains, 
twisted several times round the head, serving at the 
same time to keep the head-dress in its place. ) 

Generally, Mahometan ladies do not walk abroad 
into the public streets during the day — they mostly 
do so early in the morning or in^ the evening, after 
sunset. The streets in Zanzibar were not lit up at my 
time ; we took lights with us to walk through the nar- 
row, uneven, and dirty streets. A great deal of luxury 
was carried on with these lanterns, of which the larger 
ones sometimes were more than two yards in circum- 
ference. The prettiest were sometimes small f ac-similes 
of a Kussian church, a big cupola in the centre and 
four smaller ones at the corners. The light in each 
of these towers was reflected through glass windows, 
white, red, green, yellow, or blue. A -lady of rank 
always had two or three such lanterns carried before 
her, and it required very strong slaves for that. 
Common citizens use one lantern only. 

Eainy days, though they occur rarely, hang heavily, 
as they admit of no sociability out of the house, and 
prevent all intercourse with the outer world. Um- 
brellas, these indispensable companions in the North, 
are not owned by every one in the East, nor is it easy 
to get one borrowed for a walk. The middle classes, 
and sometimes the negroes, carry immense umbrellas 
of Indian make, covered with yellow, green, or black 
oil-skin. 

Ladies of rank are accompanied by a large troop of 
armed slaves, who look more martial however than 
they really are. These attendants are very expensive, 



AN ARAB LADY'S CALL. 173 

as their Weapons, with the exception of musket and 
revolver, are always very costly and richly inlaid with 
gold and silver. But that did not prevent the rogues 
from selling their arms for a mere trifle, or pawning 
them at some usurer's (these nice fellows are generally 
Hindoos or Banyans) for the mere sake of quenching 
their thirst for once in " Pomhe " (palm wine). In 
such cases the mistress can do nothing but redeem 
the weapons at a tenfold rate, or equip the rascal 
anew, and let a well-deserved, severe chastisement be 
administered to him at the same time. Nothing, 
however, could break them of their equanimity in 
disposing of their masters' property, which w r as 
always a heavier item than the buying of the 
slaves. 

The vanguard was led by ten to twenty of these 
armed fellows, two or three in a line carrying lan- 
terns ; the mistress, with an Arab companion, fol- 
lowed ; and a number of well-dressed female slaves 
closed the procession. 

The slaves turned all people, high or low, passing 
the street at the same time, out of the way ; and to 
let the procession pass, they were obliged to take 
refuge in a by-street or in some open doorway. This 
measure, however, could only be carried through by 
members of the reigning family — other great ladies 
were not so easily obeyed, and the lower classes rarely 
disposed themselves with alacrity to clear the way. 

It was a very pretty spectacle to see such a long 
procession move on with lanterns ; and although 
Southern custom prescribes that perfect decorum be 
observed in the public streets, it would be almost too 



174 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

much to expect that such a merry party could proceed 
many yards in total silence — and there is a general 
rush to doors and windows to see it pass. If a sister 
or lady friend was met in the street, the processions 
joined and formed into a large one. 

Having arrived at the place of destination, we were 
at once announced ; after which, we followed the 
servants into the reception rooms, or, on moonlight 
nights, up to the clean paved roof. 

The hostess is seated on her " Medde," a seat some 
six inches high above the ground, which is covered 
with rich cloth of gold, reclining against a " Tekje," a 
cushion put against the wall. It is not customary 
for her to rise and meet her visitors as courtesy 
requires in this countiT ; she only rises to express her 
pleasure, or in honour of the rank and station of the 
calling lady. 

Arab women are very reserved to strangers, whether 
of high or low station ; but whenever they meet you 
as friends the difference in birth and rank disappears 
at once. It is true that Southern women are more 
easily inclined to be jealous, but they also love more 
intensely than the children of the cold North ; there 
the heart is allowed to speak for itself, while here the 
cool, calculating mind rules alone — which no doubt is 
as well, considering the different mode of life. 

The visitors kiss the hands of the hostess, her 
head, and the hem of her shawl (persons of equal 
rank only shake hands), and they then seat them- 
selves. Only a lady of the same rank can sit down 
on the Medde — those of an inferior station in life 
have to sit at some distance. 



AN ARAB LADY'S CALL. 175 

The mask is retained ; with the exception of the 
shoes no part of the dress is removed, not even the 
Scheie. In walking, the wooden sandals are re- 
placed hy the richly-emhroiclered " Kosch," a kind 
of leather slipper with broad heel. The shoes are 
slipped off before entering the room, and this custom 
is followed from the sovereign down to the slave. It 
is the business of the attending slaves to place these 
shoes, which are all much alike, in such a way that 
the owner on leaving can at once step into them. 
Even in this there is a strict rule of etiquette main- 
tained : the slippers of the lady highest in rank are 
placed in the centre, and all the others round in a 
circle. 

Coffee is then handed round in little cups, and this 
is repeated whenever a new visitor appears ; fruits 
and sweetmeats are served besides. 

The hostess is not required to keep up the conversa- 
tion, and certainly not such a formal one as in these 
parts, from mere politeness. People are perfectly 
natural, and talk about everything they can think of. 
There are no theatres or concerts, balls or circuses, 
that can be talked about ; nor are there any bright 
remarks made on the state of the weather. The con- 
versation turns mostly on personal affairs and on 
agricultural pursuits, for which every lady of rank 
has a taste. There is nothing to check or restrain 
good spirits, and jests are exchanged without anxious 
regard to dignity. It is one of the greatest blessings 
Southern people enjoy, that they are nearly always 
bright and merry. Why should they not be so, when 
their serene and bright sky at all times sets them so 



176 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

good an example ? And how should they have fits of 
the blues when Nature grants them so bountifully all 
they need and can wish for ? 

During visiting hours the master of the house does 
not come into the rooms of his wife, daughter, or 
mother. The sovereign only, and his nearest male 
relations, are dispensed from this rule ; but whenever 
a lady cousin of equal rank from Oman was present, 
even our brothers and nephews were not allowed to 
enter without being announced. The husband of a 
married sister, upon whom I call, remains in his 
reception room until I have departed. If the master 
of the house is compelled to talk about some matter 
of moment to one of his female relations, he has her 
called into another room. The same is done by ladies 
who wish to speak to their male relations, when these 
are engaged with their friends. This custom is 
rigorously observed even if a lady stays with her 
friend all day, say from half-past five a.m. to seven 
o'clock p.m. ; and the gentlemen are frequently put 
to a great deal of inconvenience to avoid coming across 
strange ladies. 

Still the Oriental bears the inevitable with in- 
credible patience; for he has been reared in these 
views, and has lived no other life. The force of habit 
and its influence remains alike everywhere. I do not 
at all deny that many things in the East are exagge- 
rated, and may appear superfluous. But are people 
in Europe quite free from such conventional tyranny 
and foolish customs ? In one country the strictest 
reserve is observed in the intercourse between men 
and women ; the most licentious liberty prevails in. 



AN ARAB LADY'S CALL. 177 

the other. There, a state of muffling up and wearing 
of masks in spite of the heat ; here, in the cold North, 
the fashion of low dresses, and so on. All these are 
extremes; both things are overdone, and the happy me- 
dium has not, as yet, been put into practice anywhere. 

Amidst very lively conversation these calls gener- 
ally last from three to four hours. At last the time 
has come to part. The slaves must be roused to get 
into order for the procession ; the lanterns are 
always kept lighted during the visit — a perfectly 
useless extravagance — but it is " swell " to do so. 

Before separating, the hostess presents each visitor 
with a parting gift, however trifling, and the same 
compliments are exchanged as at the arrival. It 
always takes some time before the different processions 
form into proper order to return home ; but home 
must be reached by midnight, this being the hour for 
night prayers. 

The Arab ladies possess another great advantage 
over their European sisters : they are never required 
to thank their hostess at parting for their entertain- 
ment, and make pretty, hypocritical speeches. It is 
bad enough to be compelled to go to a tiresome party, 
it is worse still to have to express thanks for it after- 
wards. I have often heard ladies in this part of the 
world highly complimenting their hostess on the 
great success of her delightful party, and immediately 
afterwards picking them both to pieces. What de- 
grading hypocrisy ! Would it not bring us nearer to 
our Creator if everybody endeavoured to meet his 
neighbour in a kindly, yet a straightforward, spirit ? 
Why carry on such an eternal masquerade ? 



CHAPTEB XIX. 

THE AUDIENCE. INTERCOURSE BETWEEN GENTLEMEN. 

Twice a day, by an old-established custom, all the 
male relations, the ministers and officials — in fact, all 
those who wish to see or speak to him — are allowed 
free access to the sovereign in the morning after 
breakfast and later in the day, after fourth prayer. 
The audience chamber (barze) was on the ground- 
floor, in a wing of the palace, built close to the sea- 
shore, and at high tide the water came right up 
to its walls; there was a magnificent view far out 
into the sea from its windows. It was a very large 
chamber, and yet not sufficiently so to contain, at 
times, all persons who appeared. The furniture was 
in the same plain style as in all Arab rooms, con- 
sisting only of some carpets, of tall looking-glasses, 
some clocks, and of a number of chairs ranged along 
the walls. 

As no Arab of rank goes out by himself, there 
was always a crowd of some hundreds of followers 
outside the doors waiting for the return of their 
masters and friends. As many of them as could find 
a place sat down on the stone seats provided, the 
remainder stood about in the open court of the palace. 



THE AUDIENCE. 179 

To us this was always a very interesting spectacle — 
for the gentlemen appeared at the audiences in their 
state-dresses, that is to say, with turbans, and in the 
long overcoat (djocha) reaching down to the ankles, 
with their scarves girt round. 

At home the Arab covers his shaven head with a 
white skull-cap, which is sometimes very handsomely 
embroidered, but whenever he walks abroad he puts 
on his turban (amame). It requires a great deal of 
skill to .twist it up, and takes some people more than 
half an hour to arrange it properly. It must be taken 
off very carefully, so that it may not collapse ; but, as 
a rule, it is built up afresh every time it is worn. 
The cloth used for it is not expensive, and only costs 
some five to eight dollars ; much more costly, how- 
ever, is the material for the scarves (mahsem), their 
price varying from twenty to two hundred dollars 
each ; it is of silk richly interwoven with gold and 
silver thread. A man of rank possesses a great many 
scarves, and changes them as frequently as people in 
this country change ties ; old and devout men, who 
no longer care for fashion, wear only mahsems of 
plain white or black silk. The Arab's full dress is 
not complete without his weapons, as I already 
mentioned before. They are generally handed to him 
by his wife or daughter, or by his son, when he is 
about to leave the house. 

Before entering the audience-chamber, the gentle- 
men slip off their shoes, and by the manner in which 
this is done the different ranks can be easily dis- 
tinguished. The common people, for instance, take 
off their " watjes " some distance from the door; 



180 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

those of rank and station just in front of it. This 
is not ordered by some " despotic " law, it is an es- 
tablished and voluntary action. The Arab is ac- 
customed of old to pay respect to every station, and 
his sentiments to his sovereign and to his house are 
instinctively loyal. 

As soon as the audience-chamber is full, the sultan 
opens the proceedings. During my father's life, the 
procession was formed in the following manner : A 
detachment of negro guards came first ; then a 
number of young eunuchs headed by the chief 
eunuchs ; behind these my father, followed by his 
sons, the youngest closing up the column. In front 
of the entrance to the barze the guards and eunuchs 
formed into double line, through which my father, 
with his sons, passed into the chamber. All rose to 
salute him, and the same order of procession was 
repeated when he retired from the assembly. If a 
man of rank wished to leave the room before the 
audience was over, my father used to walk with him 
a few steps, and the whole company rose. To Euro- 
peans this may appear peculiar, and the liberty 
allowed to every one to come in and go without being 
dismissed by the monarch, or until the latter had 
left himself, is to a certain extent quite in opposition 
to the usual ceremonious bearing of the Arab. 

At the morning audiences coffee was rarely served, 
but this was always done at those of the evening, after 
which business began. Everybody had a right to 
come forward and prefer a request, or to bring in a 
complaint, and to ask for a decision in his case. 
Nearly all the proceedings were verbal ones — either 



THE AUDIENCE. 181 

to settle affairs or give judgments in writing is much 
disliked. Petty business was mostly referred to the 
ministers or to the kadis (judges), and even to the 
chief eunuchs. The audience continued for two to 
three hours ; people who had not got their business 
settled within this time, or who had come in too 
late, were ordered by the chief eunuchs to let the 
arbitration stand over till next day. 

From the age of fourteen to sixteen the princes are 
permitted to assist at the assembly ; afterwards they 
are even obliged to. In the same way every notable 
is obliged to put in an apj)earance, to show his loyalty 
and respect to his sovereign, unless he be prevented 
by some urgent reason. If any such notable absent 
himself for several days running, the reason for his 
absence is at once inquired into at his house, and in 
case of sickness he may count upon a speedy visit from 
his master ; not even the most contagious diseases, 
such as cholera or smallpox, will prove a hindrance — 
indeed, this will prevent no one from going near him, 
for all things are predestined and ordered by God. 
The nurses of the sick man, his wife, mother, or other 
females, of course leave the sick-room while other 
men are present. 

Every Arab of standing has such a barze on the 
ground floor of his house, quite apart from the 
ladies' rooms, and there he generally lives and re- 
ceives his friends. In most cases, the floor is paved 
with black and white slabs of French marble, and to 
keep the chamber cool there are neither carpets nor 
mats in it. 

The gentlemen have the same visiting hours as the 



182 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

ladies, after seven o'clock in the evening. The Arab 
never goes out without a certain aim or object ; he 
never dreams of taking the so-called constitutional 
walk, and if he sees a European pacing up and down 
on the roof of his house in the evening, he thinks he 
is saying his prayers in a fashion peculiar to 
Christians. 

I need not add anything about the ceremonials or 
the conversation carried on at these gentlemen's calls ; 
they are much the same as. with the ladies, only there 
are more topics to be talked about, such as the affairs 
of town and country, the features of the last audience, 
the petitions and various lawsuits either pending or 
settled. To all these parties, and to the audiences 
especially, Europeans are freely admitted, and thus 
the patriarchal way of living with us, its advantages 
and disadvantages, are much better known in the 
North than anything connected with an Eastern 
woman's secluded life. 



CHAPTER XX. 



THE LONG FAST. 



Most people may have heard that the Mahometans 
have to fast some time every day for a whole month, 
until the sun has sunk below the horizon, but the 
Mahometan fasting is not like that of the Roman 
Catholics, which is very easy in comparison. Every 
Moslim fasts himself and makes his children do so 
after their twelfth year. My mother being very devout, 
I had to keep the month of the Runidan (thus 
pronounced by us, and not as it is here generally, 
Ramadan) from the time when I was nine years old. 
It is indeed no easy matter for a child of that age 
to eat and drink nothing whatever for fourteen hours 
and a half every day. Thirst being much more trying 
in the tropics than hunger, and having very little 
conception of religious duties at that age, I admit I 
more than once, quenched my thirst secretly with 
water. When questioned by my mother, I ruefully 
confessed my sin, and was only forgiven after promising 
not to trespass again. The rules are so strict, that it 
is even considered wrong to swallow the saliva, and 
for the first few days I was in such a drooping state, 
that I was sent away to sleep, to get over the time. 



184 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

The beginning of the fast is signalled at four o'clock 
in the morning by firing from the ship ; from that 
very moment you cease eating, you put down the cup 
untouched that you were about to raise to your lips. 
After these shots no grown-up person in sound health 
touches either meat or drink; people sleep, however, 
a good deal during the day, to enable them to enjoy the 
pleasures of the table at night. 

The sun sets at six o'clock; at half-past six, after 
prayers, the fast is broken. Beautiful fruit and cool 
water are taken as first refreshment, and then the 
whole family meets, and with every conceivable variety 
of delicacies makes up for lost time. 

During the month of Eumdan, the Arab completely 
puts aside his ordinary simple habits, and devotes 
himself completely to sumptuous feasting. 

On the whole, it is a very social time — hymns are 
sung throughout the evenings and nights, stories are 
told, while eating and drinking go on uninter- 
ruptedly. At midnight a gun gives the signal for those 
who have gone to sleep, to get up for the night meal 
(Suhur), which is taken between three and four in the 
morning, and even the little children who have been 
put to bed at ten o'clock, are roused to take part in 
it. The Suhur is generally served to all persons 
separately in their own rooms. 

In this manner the whole month is passed. Faint- 
ing fits occur frequently at its commencement, and 
people grow visibly thin and slender — but gradually 
they get more accustomed to this mode of life, and 
they sleep less in the daytime than they did at 
first. 



THE LONG FAST. 185 

The fast is kept very strictly, and the head of the 
house keeps his slaves to it, especially those engaged 
in the household and the personal attendants. An 
exception is only made with slaves working on the 
plantations, who, having for the most part no religion 
at all, are at liberty to fa«t or not. 

Children and all invalids are dispensed, of course, 
but the latter have to make up, after recovery, for the 
days missed, by an equal number of unbroken fastings 
in the course of the year. The same rule is valid for 
people travelling at this time. 

The fasting season is not meant to be a mere pro- 
bation to the outer man — it is intended to be a time 
of serious reflection to the devout Mahometan. He 
endeavours to discover his own deficiencies, and prays 
for forgiveness of his sins, in the same way as a good 
Christian spends Lent and the Holy Week. Even 
dangerous beasts are spared during this holy time, and 
every one endeavours to do as much good as he can. 
Thus the Rumdan is intended to be, as far as possible, a 
time of " Peace on earth, and goodwill towards men." 
Those who may at all other times lead a heedless life, 
are in this month's rigid service of their Lord brought 
nearer and raised to Him. 

The traditional hospitality of the Arab never shows 
itself more than in this period, when it is con- 
sidered a religious duty. All those who have a family 
or a household of their own, entertain as many 
strangers as they can find, olten without inquiring 
their names. They request the warden of the mosque 
they habitually attend to send them a certain num? 

ber of poor to their evening meals. The persong 
13 



186 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

invited are not necessarily poor people, they are often 
rich men of high rank, who, being strangers in the 
place, have no home of their own during this holy 
season, and the true and hospitable Arab is only too 
happy to supply this want. No one considers it 
derogatory to be entertained by a man poorer than 
himself, nor would he in that case think of offering to 
pay for the hospitality received. Selfishness cannot 
become a national sin where such principles prevail. 
Happy those nations where charity is practised as a 
sacred duty. 

The Eumdan is in some respects like Christmas- 
time. A great many presents are distributed on the 
first day of the following month, Schewal, which is 
one of the great feast days of the Mahometans. These 
presents consist but rarely of ladies' fancy work ; in 
general they are articles purchased ready made. The 
best business is done by goldsmiths and jewellers — 
nearly all of these are Hindoos and Banyans, and they 
are without exception the most mendacious crew. 
They are, however, very clever workmen, and have 
succeeded in driving all the Arab goldsmiths out of 
the field. They have plenty to do before the feast ; 
they get more orders than they can execute, but under- 
take them nevertheless. To insure our orders being 
executed in time, we had to send a couple of armed 
slaves to the workshop to watch our work being clone, 
and to prevent other orders being finished first. 
These may seem rather strong measures, but we had 
no choice else. One of my sisters first suggested this 
expedient. 

The presents most preferred consisted of arms. To 



TIIE LONG FAST. 187 

European ladies it may sound odd that a woman 
makes a present of weapons to her husband, her 
brother, her son, or her bridegroom. Bat it must be 
remembered that these are not ordinary arms, but 
perfect gems of workmanship, and Arabs do not mind 
paying fabulous sums for them — when they are in- 
tended as presents. 

Many other things are bestowed besides jewels and 
arms, such as beautiful horses, white riding donkeys, 
and — it will shock the civilized European to hear it — 
even slaves ! 

The last week of the Rumdan is spent with great 
preparations in every household for this feast, and as 
the first day of Schewal draws nearer, there is much 
bustling in getting the presents and everything else 
ready in time. The night of the twenty-seventh day 
is considered the most holy one, it being the " night 
of value," in which Mhamed received the Koran from 
heaven. The prayers on this particular night are 
uttered with the full conviction of their being granted. 

On the last day of the month, the twenty-ninth or 
thirtieth (our months have only twenty-nine or thirty 
days, and our year three hundred and fifty-five days), 
all try to be the first to discover the new moon. In 
our country only scholars are initiated into the use 
of the almanacs — but on this occasion its prognostica- 
tions alone would not avail, as the new moon must be 
clearly seen before the fast can be said to be at an 
end — a discovery which is rarely retarded by clouds 
in our deep blue southern vault. 

Opera and field-glasses are passed from hand to 
hand — friends and acquaintances from a long distance 



188 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

send to get the loan of one for a short time. Keen- 
eyed men are sent up to the roof of the fort (a remnant 
of the Portuguese dominion) and to the mastheads of 
our ships to signal the first approach of the silvery 
crook. 

The greatest excitement always prevailed in our 
palace. Forgetting that a shot fired off on board the 
ships right in front of us could hardly have passed 
unnoticed some one cries out every now and then, 
" There's the signal/' '-'Hark!" all of which of 
course are false alarms, till at last a crash shakes our 
building from roof to basement, and immediately on 
that follow cries of joy from every soul in the town, 
with the words, " Id mbarak " (a happy feast to you). 
People on distant plantations despatch mounted mes- 
sengers into the town to learn and bring back the 
longed-for news, or they send slaves up into high 
trees to watch the horizon ; but should any false 
alarm cause the fast to be broken before its lawful 
termination, then the shortcoming must be made up, 
which is a harder trial while it lasts than the whole 
month put together. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 



As I have already said, the preparations for the cele- 
bration of this feast begin a week beforehand. A 
large supply of bullocks, sheep, goats, gazelles, fowls, 
and ducks, has been provided (veal is not used, and 
pork forbidden to Mahometans), and the stalls are 
barely large enough to hold all the beasts. The 
eunuchs of rich people are very busy changing gold 
pieces and guineas for silver dollars, to be distributed 
during the festival among the poor, especially among 
the numerous poor from Oman. 

Immediately after the signal, announcing that the 
celebration of the so-called "little festival " is to take 
place on the morrow, a very picturesque and lively 
spectacle is enacted in every Arab house. People, 
whose usual demeanour is staid and dignified, rush 
about hurriedly to offer congratulations to all their 
dear ones, and in this high-water-mark state of 
general brotherhood inveterate enemies are frequently 
seen to shake hands. There is such hurrying and 
scurrying, such talking in various languages, and 
such quarrelling among the slaves, who have yet to 
get through some work, all through the night, that it 
is impossible to get any rest whatever. 



190 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

The butchers (slaves) rush upon their bellowing 
and squeaking victims, and despatch them with the 
words, " In the name of the Lord, the merciful; " the 
throats of the animals are cut in a strictly ritual 
manner, the heads quickly severed from the body, 
and after being skinned the animals are sent into the 
kitchens at once to be prepared for the festive meal 
of the morrow. On such an evening our slaughtering 
yard was changed into a lake of blood; for this reason 
all the Banyans at Zanzibar, who are vegetarians, 
looked upon our feasts with much horror, and took 
care not to come near any such places at this time. 
I have already spoken of these Banyans as the prin- 
cipal traders and money-lenders in the town, and in 
the last capacity they are, beyond a doubt, the 
greatest cut-throats imaginable ; they are bitterly 
hated on this account, and on occasions like these 
there is a splendid opportunity for their victims to 
take revenge upon them. Among the lower-class 
people it is a standing joke to entice the Bairyans, 
who never allow any chance of business to slip out of 
their grasp, under pretence of some important order, 
into these blood-streaming yards, which is the 
greatest insult that can be offered to the star- 
worshippers, of whom it can be said, however, in spite 
of their low, moral standing, that they adhere 
religiously to their code in being strict vegetarians. 

In some of the ladies' chambers the burning ques- 
tion of dress is still being gone into or revived before 
the morning. Every fair one desires to surpass the 
other. Three complete costumes are required for the 
three feast days, every item of which must be brand 



THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 191 

new. Incredible quantities of fresh roses, jessamine, 
orange-blossom, musk, amber, and all kinds of the 
finest Oriental perfumes and essences are used during 
this time. Many an Arab lady spends more than 
five hundred dollars on perfumery alone, and no 
nerves could stand these conglomerate strong scents 
if the doors and windows were not always kept 
open. 

The henna is an important article of an Eastern 
lady's toilet, particularly on festive occasions ; it is 
prepared from the leaves of a medium-sized tree, and 
serves to dye the feet of the women and children red. 
This henna, so indispensable to Eastern ladies, is 
used, for two purposes — as a remedy for boils, prickly 
heat, itching, and the like, and as an ointment for 
the hands and feet. The leaves, resembling those of 
the ntyrtle, are not efficacious if used alone; they are 
dried, pulverized, and mixed with some lemon-juice 
and water. A stiff paste is made of this, which must 
be exposed to the sun for several hours, when used it 
is again softened with lemon juice. 

The lady who is about to undergo the dying pro- 
cess is stretched out full length on her back, and is 
not allowed to stir. The paste is put on the sole of 
the feet, the toes included, about an inch thick — the 
upper part of the feet is never dyed ; soft leaves are 
then applied as a covering, and the whole is tightly 
wrapped in linen. The same process is gone through 
with the palm of the hand and the fingers. To keep 
the application in its place, she must remain all night 
perfectly still without moving ; for no other parts 
but those named must have the dye, and a smudge 



192 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

on the back of the hand or on the finger-joints is con- 
sidered a great disfigurement. 

All this time she is dreadfully teazed by the 
swarms of mosquitoes and flies, but she dare not move 
to drive them away. In the upper classes women 
slaves have to watch all night by their mistress, to 
keep these plagues off with fans until the paste can 
be removed in tbe morning. The same process must 
be gone through three nights running, to obtain the 
desired dark red tint ; then it sticks for about four 
weeks, and resists all washing. 

I remember reading once about a fashion that pre- 
vailed in France at one time, of employing only one 
particular hairdresser who was very clever, and that 
this man, in order to satisfy on festive occasions his 
numerous customers, had to begin his work on the 
previous day, and that the ladies were compelled to 
pass all night seated in their high-backed chairs 
without stirring, so as not to disarrange their fashion- 
able head-dress. This story reminded me very much 
of my youth in the East, though the sufferings we 
had to undergo for vanity's sake were even worse. 

Middle-aged ladies and little children are not sub- 
jected to this tormenting process ; they only employ the 
henna as a cooling ointment, and wash their hands 
with a liquid solution thereof. 

The festive day has at last arrived ; as early as 
four o'clock all are in full dress. More time is spent 
over prayers, and more fervently this morning than 
usual. At half-past five some ladies may be met 
already hurrying along the gallery in all their magni- 
ficent finery, showing their new dresses and jewels to 



THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 193 

particular friends. It would not do to postpone this 
to a later hour, for the general splendour by and by 
would preclude any close and individual inspection, 
and swallow up the due share of admiration. The 
scene is something like that in a European ball-room, 
with the difference that quieter colours or white 
dresses prevail there. I wonder what a European 
belle would think of an Arab lady's " full dress," 
and whether she would care to exchange her gauzy 
and delicately tinted ball costume for the following 
combination : a loose red silk ' dress, richly em- 
broidered with gold thread in different patterns, 
elaborately trimmed with gold or silver lace, and 
satin trousers of bright green. It sounds odd, I own, 
but habit soon does away with a great many of 
our scruples. I was struck with something of the 
same feeling, but from a perfectly opposite cause 
when for the first time I saw people in Europe 
dressed in sober grey and black. I w r as far from over- 
joyed at having to adopt these dark shades myself, 
and being told that they were conformable with good 
taste and breeding. 

The first gun is fired at six o'clock, to be followed 
by the firing of a succession of shots in honour of 
the Feast of the Faithful ; if there are any foreign 
men-of-war in port, they also fire a salute of twenty- 
one guns. Every Arab shows his joy on such a day 
by letting off as many fireworks as he can — a 
stranger might almost fancy himself in a bombarded 
city. Every ship in port runs up whatever flags she 
has, as do our own men-of-war. 

An hour later all the mosques are crowded to 



194 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

excess — no Arab stays at home on this day — and those 
who cannot find a place within say their prayers in 
the open street. Mahometan worship is attended 
with a great deal of bodily exertion ; it prescribes 
bowing down very low, and touching the ground with 
the forehead repeatedly. To have to do this in a 
dirty ill-paved street is decidedly unpleasant. The 
faithful must not let their prayers be interrupted by 
rain or thunderstorm, and on festive occasions, it is 
specially ordained to say them either inside or close 
to a mosque. Our father always went to the nearest 
mosque on such days shortly before the hour for 
prayers, followed by his numerous sons, and by a 
very large retinue. 

Meanwhile, there is a great deal of bustle in our 
house to get everything ready for the entertainment 
of the numerous people, who come to offer their con- 
gratulations on the return of the gentlemen from the 
mosque. As soon as the conclusion of the worship 
is made known by the guns, everybody is free to 
enjoy the good cheer offered, for the fast only closes 
when the prayers in the mosque are over. 

We waited for our father's return in his apartments, 
from where we could see the crowds of visitors arrive. 
On his entering the room, we all rose to congratulate 
him, and to kiss his hands. This kissing of hands 
continues all day, only, however, between people of 
high rank ; the middle class kiss the head, or rather 
the cloth on the head of those superior in station, and 
common people kiss the feet. 

The moment for the distribution of the presents 
had now arrived. Accompanied by my sister Chole 



THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 195 

and by Djohar, the chief of the upper eunuchs, both 
of whom were not a little envied for this proof of 
confidence, my father went into his treasury, which 
contained a great variety of precious objects, such as 
costly arms inlaid with precious stones, all kinds of 
women's trinkets, from the plainest to the most ex- 
pensive, rare materials for dresses, ordered expressly 
from Persia, Turkey, or from China, ottar of roses 
and other varieties of fine essences in large jars, from 
which smaller bottles were filled, and any amount of 
glittering gold pieces. 

It was impossible to expect that our father should 
know how much and what kinds of jeweller}*- each of 
his wives or daughters possessed, or what they desired 
to have ; he generally inquired a few days beforehand 
to learn the wishes of each, but Chole would again 
refresh his memory when he selected the gifts. 

The sorting was done by the eunuchs in our father's 
presence, the name of the recipient was attached to 
each article, and handed over by the eunuchs. The 
presents were of course inspected at once, and it 
occurred frequently that they were returned to our 
father with the request to change them for something 
else, which was granted in most cases, as he was ex- 
tremely good-natured. He was always very liberal, 
but never received anything in return. It is a beauti- 
ful custom in Europe for children to offer presents to 
their parents on their birthdays or at Christmas — 
the head of an Eastern family does not fare so well. 
Arab children never give a present to their father. 

Hitherto, I have only spoken of the presents made 
by my father to his family ; his obligations did not, 



196 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

however, end there. On this day everybody expected 
something ; he had to remember all high African or 
Asiatic chiefs who happened to be in Zanzibar at the 
time, his officials, the soldiers and their officers, the 
captains of his ships and the crews, the managers of 
his forty-five estates, and last, but not least, all his 
slaves, exceeding 8,000 in number. The various gifts 
were, of course, suited to the rank of the receiver ; 
the slaves, for instance, merely received materials for 
dresses. To all these many hundreds of poor may be 
added, who sometimes came a fortnight afterwards 
to claim a present ; on the whole, it was not a bad 
time for the poor, who received rich donations from 
all the wealthy people. 

A similar and quite as comprehensive a distribution 
of presents took place at Bet il Mtoni. I often 
wondered at the inexhaustible productiveness of the 
treasure chamber to withstand such a drain, par- 
ticularly on ready money, as was made upon it during 
these three days, which proves, I think, that our 
father was an excellent manager, and a clever business 
man. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



THE GREAT FESTIVAL. 



The Mahometan celebrates only two great festivals 
in the course of the year, and to a Roman Catholic 
with his numerous saints' days this may seem very 
strange. Two months intervene between the little 
and the great feasts, called Id il hadj generally known 
in Turkey and in Europe by the name of the great 
Beiram feast. 

It is a repetition of the one I have just described, 
with the difference only that it is celebrated in a still 
more beautiful and grander style, and is altogether of 
a more solemn order. It is the time of the great 
pilgrimage to Mekke,* which is the dearest wish of 
every one of the Faithful to undertake at least once 
during life. The devout Muslim cannot be deterred 
by the danger of cholera and other epidemics, which 
carry off many thousands of the pilgrims at times; 
countless crowds join every year to seek forgiveness 
of their sins in the holy city of the Prophet. These 
poor people have to travel on foot over long distances; 
and the manner in which they are conveyed in over- 
crowded ships is really dreadful. Still they go, 

* The word is pronounced as written above, and not Mekka. 



198 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

putting their trust in the Lord, in whose hands their 
life is. Truly, such faith, which knows not fear, and 
shuns no hardship to carry out this religious duty, 
may well hope for mercy. 

This, the greatest feast of the Mahometans, falls 
on the tenth day of the twelfth month of the year, 
and lasts from three to seven days. Many hallow 
the same by a nine days' fast, beginning on the first 
day of the month, in the same way as is done by the 
devout pilgrims to Mekke. 

Whoever can possibly afford it, procures a sheep, 
which is killed on the first holiday, and distributed 
among the poor. The law prescribes, that the sheep, 
intended for this purpose, be of the very best quality, 
and perfectly sound ; it must not have lost even a 
single tooth. It is, of course, next to impossible to 
procure so faultless a sheep, and we used to send 
slaves all over the island a fortnight and more before 
to obtain what we required, but if none were to be 
had near home, the slaves crossed over to the African 
continent, where there is a greater abundance. The 
owners knew that Arabs of high rank were ready to pay 
any price for really fine sheep, and made their charges 
according ; so that, added to the other expenses in- 
curred in the purchase, each specimen represented 
a somewhat disproportionate value. 

No part, however, of the immolated animal may 
be consumed by any of the family nor by the slaves — 
every particle must be given away to the poor. 

To them, the great feast is the most important 
event of the whole year, as on this occasion one of 
the most commendable of all Mahometan eustoms is 



THE GREAT FESTIVAL. 199 

made manifest, viz., the self-taxation in favour of the 
poor. 

With the exception of such half-cultured States as 
Turkey, Egypt, and Tunis, public funds and shares 
are things quite unknown in the true East ; nobody 
understands the meaning of the word investment. All 
the property consists in plantations, houses, slaves, 
jewels, and ready money. Keligious law exhorts 
every Mahometan to give to the poor a tithe of the 
yearly profit on his crops, the rental of his houses, or 
any other source of income. At the same time he must 
get all his property, consisting of precious stones and 
gold and silver, valued by experts, and relinquish the 
tenth part for the same purpose. 

All this is done without any authorized civic super- 
vision or control. Alone the voice of conscience 
prompts to the performance of this duty. This law 
of the Prophet is kept particularly sacred, and none 
but people of really bad character ever try to elude 
it. Moreover, this act of charity is never talked 
about or inquired into, but is carried out on the pre- 
cept that the left hand shall not know what the right 
hand doeth. 

This may account for the fact that such a great 
number of beggars, if I may say so, are quite an in- 
dispensable institution in every Mahometan state, 
and also for the reason of this self-taxation. But 
these poor people must not be compared with the 
poor in these parts, who have far better claims on 
our charity. For one-half of the Oriental beggars 
possess more perhaps than they want. Begging is 
their trade — it has become their second nature, and 



200 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

they would never be lit for anything else. Their craft 
is more often than not a heritage, and you may 
happen to be accosted thus : " Why, don't you know 
me ? I am the daughter (or the son, the sister-in- 
law, &c.,) of So-and-so, to whom you always used to 
give so much, when they were alive. Now I have 
taken their place, and if you have any alms to give, 
please be good enough to send them to such or such 
a place." 

Hundreds of such poor used to assemble for their 
share of the alms we distributed in fulfilment of cer- 
tain vows we made during the year. They gather 
also under the windows of sick people, and alms given 
in such cases are called "Satka." No Mahometan 
will refuse the poor on such occasions, even if he has 
to part with all he has. Whatever his motive may be 
— real charity or the hope of being acceptable in the 
eyes of God, I think it a beautiful custom. 

Many of these beggars are covered with wounds 
and sores — some go about minus some feature, and 
otherwise horribly maimed and disfigured. They are 
the victims of a very bad disease called Belas, which 
attacks hands and feet first, and leaves these snow- 
white ever after. Everybody flies from them, as the 
taint is thought to be contagious. I cannot say 
whether this is leprosy or not, but these unfortunates 
always receive rich alms. 

The giving away of presents does not, however, 
stop with the feast itself. For those who may have 
been ill or absent at the time do not forego their 
right to their share of the alms. Weeks and months 
may have passed away — the new feast may already 



THE GKEAT FESTIVAL. 201 

be close at hand — still tbey come and claim their 
overdue present. 

There is no other religious holiday for the next 
nine or ten months — nothing to interrupt the even 
and regular course of life, unless it be by some such 
festivities already described or about to be described 
in the next chapter. Birthdays are not celebrated in 
our country. 



14 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM. 

When I was about fifteen years old, I wore one day 
for the first time a red dress of silk brocade ; and 
on the very next day some kind of inflammation 
spread over my whole body. Old and experienced 
people declared at once that I was bewitched, or that 
some jealous being had cast an evil eye on the pretty 
dress. I had, however, always been a great sceptic 
in this respect, and declined to part with my new 
dress, which, in spite of all warnings, I put on again. 
Perhaps the dye really contained some poisonous 
substance — or from some other unexplained reason — I 
was taken ill again, and had to stay in bed. The 
matter was now perfectly clear — I was not allowed to 
wear the dress any more ; therefore, to settle the 
point, I gave it to a courageous citizen's wife, who 
believed no more in witchcraft than I did. Had I 
acted strictly in accordance with the prescribed pre- 
caution in such cases, I should have ordered a "spell" 
to be said over it, or had it burnt so as to completely 
destroy its evil effect. 

The above may serve as a little sample of the kind 
of superstition that prevails in the East. I have 



AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM. 203 

spoken on this subject before, and some more details 
may follow now, connected with the rites of a certain 
oblation, also originating in superstition. 

Some springs are believed to possess special miracu- 
lous powers — not their waters, but their presiding 
spirits. Such a spirit will do all it can for those who 
implicitly believe in and do honour to its power ; it 
can cure the sick, restore lost people to their homes, 
arrange a good match for those who wish to marry, 
give childless parents their desire ;.it can soften angry 
parents, reconcile husband and wife and friends, re- 
store lost property (such as gold, slaves; cattle, and 
so forth) to its owners, make poor people as rich as 
Croesus ; indeed there is no feat with which such a 
spirit is not credited. 

The favourite spring in the island of Zanzibar is 
called Tschemschem ; it is situated some miles out 
of the town. A visitor to this miraculous spot would 
gain the impression that its spirit must be easily con- 
tented, to judge from the poor quality of the gifts 
presented. Poor people spend only a small bit of 
cloth, two inches wide, left dangling about in the 
wind, or an eggshell. The spirit is also rather partial 
to all kinds of sweets (Halve), to perfumes, and in- 
cense ; but to make quite sure of success, the tribute 
must be paid in blood. 

Tschemschem is visited by many afflicted people, 
who have vowed to bring some such offering. There 
is, however, always a cautious proviso attached to 
these vows — the wish must be granted within a 
certain stipulated time, otherwise the spirit goes 
without his offering. If the spirit is not punctual to 



204 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

time, tbe promise is cancelled, and there is an end of 
it. In the reverse case the promise is faithfully 
kept, often by the relations of those who have died 
before their vow was fulfilled. 

When quite a child I was frequently taken to one 
of these sacred springs, and we always had a very 
pleasant time there. But after I ceased to be called 
" Kibibi," or little mistress, and had become "Bibi," 
or a real mistress, and when I was old enough to 
observe and to think for myself, I only assisted 
at one more oblation, which was, however, very 
grand. 

My sister Chadudj, now dead, had been seriously 
ill for a long time, and her anxious attendants made 
the vow that she should go to Tschemschem herself 
to present an offering if she recovered life and health; 
and when this came about she went to carry out the 
promise made on her behalf. 

Four weeks before the day appointed invitations 
were issued to several of her favourite sisters, and 
preparations on a large scale commenced at the same 
time. Ten invitations to balls in Europe, all received 
at once, would not cause such anxiety and expense as 
this single one to our impending pilgrimage. It was 
not a case of simply providing dresses for one's self or 
daughters, but a whole regiment of slaves of both 
sexes had to be equipped with dresses and jewellery 
suitable to the wealth of their mistress, not to speak 
of a great number of donkeys that the occasion would 
require. Artists and workmen were over head and 
ears in work; and jewellers, w 7 ho never keep any 
stock, but make everything to order, had conse- 



AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM. 205 

quently most to do, besides superintending the 
polishing up of the gold and silver ornamented 
harnesses and the weapons of the slaves. A pilgrim- 
age of this sort is always something of a pageantry — 
all the riding gear must look beautifully new and 
resplendent ; no expense is spared, and many an 
article of jewellery is paid tenfold its value on 
account of the great demand. 

As early as half-past five on the appointed day, I 
rode to my sister's house to join her there; the crowd 
was so great that I despaired ever getting there at 
all. At last the signal was given to start, and we 
had a long and brisk ride in the pleasant morning 
breeze to the spring. 

The spot, at other times so lonely and deserted, 
had been changed for this day into the most wonder- 
ful fairy palace. For clays the grand preparations 
had been going on. The long grass was cut, carpets 
spread under the big trees, mirrors nailed to their 
trunks, and every possible comfort provided ; a sump- 
tuous meal had been prepared the day before. 

Breakfast was taken soon after our arrival in the 
shade of the magnificent trees. The picture of this 
scene deeply impressed itself upon my memory ; the 
gorgeously-attired people, with their costly jewels, 
gracefully reclining in front of the merrily bubbling 
spring, and surrounded by the romantic rich vegeta- 
tion of a tropical wood ; truly it was a picture that no 
painter's fancy even could devise — indeed, like the 
enthralling descriptions of "The Arabian Nights." 

Two hours later we prepared to make the offering, 
the object of our excursion. The spirit of the spring 



206 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

was to rejoice this day in the blood of a beautiful, 
ciioice bull, and in smaller tributes, such as sweet- 
meats and immense numbers of fresh eggs, dashed to 
pieces on the water's edge. Two flags were likewise 
dedicated — a red one, our insignia, and a white one — 
as a peace-offering. 

Our camping place was only a short distance from 
the spring, and the whole company rose to assist at 
the ceremony. Oue of my sister's chamber-women 
advanced close to the water's edge to make a little 
speech. She spoke of the severe illness of her mistress, 
and how the vow had been made in the last ex- 
tremity. She thanked the kind spirit for its assist- 
ance in restoring her mistress to health, who had 
now come in person to present the promised thank- 
offering. 

The bull was brought forward and killed ; the 
blood was carefully collected and sprinkled over the 
spring from ail sides. Musk and ambergris were thrown 
upon burning charcoal in silver incense pans. The 
ceremony concluded with some prayers, which were 
said standing. 

Besides the blood of the immolated animal the 
invisible spirit received the heart, liver, and a few 
other parts, which were strewed all round, cut up in 
small pieces. The remainder ought to have been 
distributed amongst the poor, for neither the person 
making the offering, nor any of her relations, are 
by custom allowed to partake of it. As the spring 
Tschemschem is, however, too far removed from town, 
and as there were no poor people to be found in its 
immediate neighbourhood, an understanding with the 



AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM. 207 

spirit had been come to when the vow was made, 
that, to overcome this difficulty, the immolated beast 
was to be eaten on the spot, and thus it formed part 
of our afternoon's repast. 

When the company all sat round again to rest, one 
or the other of our party might be seen to disappear 
quietly for a while, but no notice was taken thereof, 
for we knew that the secret visit had been paid to the 
miraculous spring, and to the discreet and powerful 
spirit were confided many griefs and afflictions, 
physical and mental troubles, or, may be, the burden 
of an unrequited love ; but for all of them its in- 
tercession was craved. 

The hours up to four o'clock passed away in feast- 
ing, walking about, playing, resting, and praying. 
The horses and donkeys were then brought back to be 
saddled. It generally took above an hour before 
we were quite ready to start, as one of the bad habits 
of negroes consists in forgetting the most necessary 
things at the last moment. 

On our return we stayed at Mnasimodja, or at 
Ngambo, for prayers, and after dusk we all re-entered 
the town to .accompany my sister home. The mag- 
nificence and splendour of this feast formed the main 
topic of our conversation for many weeks after. 



CHAPTEK XXIV. 

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. POSSESSED PEOPLE. 

People in the East grow up without paying any par- 
ticular attention to their body or their health ; rarely, 
and then only in cases of severe sickness, nature is 
aided a little, but the remedies used for this purpose 
are, as a rule, more than useless. 

The detestable practice of cupping plays a great- 
part, and only the very smallest children are spared 
this torment. Letting blood is considered the uni- 
versal remedy for all kinds of ailings — it is made use 
of alike in attacks of cholera and small-pox, or in 
any other case of suffering. It is also employed as a 
preventive remedy, for people in perfectly good health 
have themselves cupped once a year at least, as was 
the custom in Europe formerly. 

In the upper ranks bleeding takes the place of cup- 
ping, but no particular precaution is ever observed in 
this practice. I once had a great fright in one of the 
dark passages at Bet il Mtoni, seeing one of my sisters 
being carried past quite motionless, and looking as if 
she were dead. My screams alarmed the whole house, 
and I would not be calm till they told me that she was 
not dead, as I had feared, but that she had only fainted 



DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 209 

after having been bled too profusely. She recovered 
very slowly from the critical state into which the 
careless treatment had thrown her. 

I am not competent to judge whether such profuse 
issues are, from time to time, beneficial to the health 
in a hot climate ; I fancy, however, that the manner 
in which they are practised must be extremely 
dangerous. 

The kneading of limbs and joints produces a very 
pleasant effect. I have spoken of this as being done 
regularly every morning and evening, and of the 
great proficiency our slaves had acquired in it. In 
cases of ordinary indisposition, especially indigestion, 
it is much practised. 

Emetics, prepared of the most nauseous herbs, are 
frequently taken. It is sometimes next to impossible 
to swallow these concoctions, the mere smell of which 
is sufficient to produce the desired effect. 

In cases of severe illness the aid of God is alone 
invoked, and to this end sentences from the Kuran 
are considered the best cure. These passages are 
written by a person, generally admitted as devout, on 
a white plate, with a solution of saffron. (^This writing 
is dissolved with water (generally with rosewater), and 
the whole mixture must be swallowed by the invalid, 
like a dose of medicine, thrice a day, morning, noon, 
and night ;j but to do any good, not the smallest 
particle of this sacred liquid must be spilt. (I myself 
had to take this remedy once for some time during a 
violent attack of fever. ■> 

In exceptional cases, and if the sick person was a 
special favourite of our father, a real medical man, 



210 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

or a sorcerer, was admitted to the bedside. My sister 
Cliole once suffered severely from pains in the ear, 
which would not get better, in spite of all the 
quackeries employed. At last it was thought advisable 
to call in a Persian doctor (hakim), very famous at 
the time. I was quite a child then, and was per- 
mitted to stay in the room while he was consulted. 
Chole was wrapped up so completely in a schele that 
nothing of her whole body was visible but the ear. 
My father stood on the right, and my brother Chalid 
on the left of the couch on which she was seated, and 
my other brothers formed a circle round her, all of 
them fully armed. The doctor was conducted into 
the sick room by a number of eunuchs, while others 
were placed as guards at different parts of the house, 
to give the female residents the signal to retire on the 
approach of the Persian. The hakim, of course, was 
not allowed to speak to the sick, but his inquiries had 
to be addressed to my father or to my brothers, who 
also replied. 

When I was down with typhoid fever, at a later 
period, and had been raving for some days, my aunt 
Asche, my father's sister, resolved at last to call in a 
European doctor, as none of our Arab or Suahely 
remedies would answer. My father's death having 
made me personally independent, the ceremonial just 
described was no longer needed. The doctor, who was 
well acquainted with Arab customs, insisted upon 
being allowed to feel my pulse, which demand was 
granted by my aunt after long consideration. A 
number of eunuchs had, however, been put in requi- 
sition, and I was completely covered by my schele, 



DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 211 

although quite unconscious of what was going on 
around me, and was only told afterwards by my aunt. 
But when the. doctor required to see my tongue, 
Djohar, the chief of the eunuchs, aghast with horror, 
flatly refused this unheard-of demand, so that the 
doctor withdrew quite furious, without having pre- 
scribed anything. 

Such panacea are, of course, only made use of in 
countries where the deepest ignorance prevails of the 
human frame, as well as of its functions, and the 
ailments to which it is subjected. . The Arab is per- 
fectly ignorant of all these, and quite unable to dis- 
tinguish one case of sickness from another. He 
divides all inner complaints into two classes — pains in 
the stomach and pains in the head. No matter which 
be the internal organs affected, the disease goes always 
by the same name ; and every complaint that affects 
the head, up to softening of the brain and sunstroke, 
is called headache. But as to the origin of all these, 
the Arab remains in utter darkness, and when all the 
home cures have been tried and have failed, a eunuch 
is perhaps sent to one of the consular doctors to ask 
for .some medicament. A medical man who can, 
however, not see the sick person, and who obtains 
only the vaguest information about the disease itself, 
labours rather under a disadvantage. Consequently, 
the sufferer often gets a wrong medicine, or an innocu- 
ous one at the best. 

No one knows what is meant by observing a certain 
diet. A person attacked with cholera, typhus, or 
small-pox is allowed to eat whatever he chooses, or 
what he can get. Nature is supposed to be proof 



212 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

against anything, and with the belief in predestination, 
the Muslim does not even guard against the danger of 
contagion ; people taken with sinall-pox, for instance, 
are never isolated. Needless to say, that with such 
rampant ignorance precautionary measures can 
never be effected, and that all attempts to confine 
cholera epidemics, or to set a strict watch over the 
great caravans of pilgrims, have so far failed. 

I wish to say a few words more about some kinds 
of diseases. Small-pox, unfortunately, rules perma- 
nently in Zanzibar, and kills off many thousands. The 
person attacked is rubbed all over with an ointment 
of Djiso (curcumac), and placed in the sun ; in some 
cases the skin is saturated with cocoanut-milk, which 
is preferable to Djiso. The only other means to ease 
the invalid consists in removing him from his bed to 
a soft mat, or by placing him upon a large plantain 
leaf. Internal remedies are not given, and, above all, 
care is taken that no water comes near him. 

Cases of consumption, especially of a rapid nature, 
are frequent, but they are taken no notice of, nor is 
any treatment of the disease known. Yet, of all, it 
is the most feared ; it is thought to be contagious, 
and not unjustly so, as many European physicians 
assert. Any one suffering from consumption is almost 
an outcast ; nobody likes to occupy the seat just left 
by such an one, or touch hi3 hand, much less drink 
out of the same cup with a consumptive person. One 
of my stepmothers, a young and very beautiful woman, 
was very ill with consumption, but to the last she was 
able to leave her bed and visit her friends. Though 
still quite a child, I could plainly perceive how un- 



DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 213 

welcome she was to all. I felt very sorry for her, and 
used secretly to go and he of some use to her when 
she could leave her couch no more : she had only one 
little hoy, and no daughter to tend her. 

Many of my dear relations have succumbed to this 
malignant disease, and the majority of them at an 
early age. The property left by consumptive people 
is treated with the greatest precaution ; their dresses 
and bedding are carefully washed in the sea, gold and 
silver objects even are put through a process of firing 
to guard against contagion. 

Hooping cough is as frequent with us as it is in this 
country. The children are given large quantities of 
" dew-water " to drink, which is collected in the morn- 
ing from the giant leaves of the plantain. A remedy, 
founded on superstitious belief, is likewise used. A 
number of round pieces, of the size of a shilling, are 
cut from the dried skin of a kind of pumpkin, called 
hawashi, and these pieces are suspended round the 
child's neck. 

Sores and boils are very common and very painful. 
They are covered up with the skin of onion and with 
dough. 

The simple home remedies are all tried in turns, 
but medical aid and treatment — never, in the absence 
of which it can hardly be a matter of surprise that 
people trust in the miraculous instead, and address 
themselves for help to fortune-tellers. These Basarin, 
as they are called, are consequently in great request, 
and do a thriving business. We generally consulted, 
in cases of sickness, an old, one-eyed woman from 
Hadramot, who was a "Schihrie." Her magic imple- 



214 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

ments consisted in a dirty bag, containing a variety 
of things, such as small shells, sea-pebbles, bleached 
bones, quantities of broken bits of glass and china, 
rusty old nails, bent copper and silver coins, and so 
forth. When she was wanted to answer a question, 
she prayed first for aid from above for a revelation of 
the truth, after which, she opened her bag, mixed its 
contents well, and then emptied them out. Her 
answer was always regulated by the position of the 
articles she had thrown out of her bag, and then she 
stated whether the sick person would get better or 
not, &c. Chance appeared to favour this Basara a 
great deal more than any of the other fortune-tellers ; 
frequently her predictions proved true, and she made 
a good thing out of it, for in these cases she was re- 
warded by large presents, quite out of proportion with 
the small preliminary fee. 

External hurts are of course cured more easily than 
inner diseases. To stop bleeding tinder is generally 
used ; though broken bones are cases of a more 
dangerous nature. I broke a forearm once, falling 
downstairs ; my aunt and my brother Bargasch at 
once bandaged the broken limb, but unfortunately 
they did not understand setting the bone properly, so 
I have a somewhat crooked arm in consequence to 
this day. 

I have not yet touched upon a very important subject 
— the devil ! It is well known that in the East nearly 
everybody believes in the devil, and that he prefers 
taking up his residence with human beings. I do not 
remember a single child with us, that had not been 
possessed of the devil once, at least. A new-born 



DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 215 

child, that is more restless and more inclined to cry 
than is usual, -must surely be possessed, and the 
exorcising of the evil spirit. is at once set on foot. 
Little onions and bits of garlic are strung like pearls 
and suspended from arms and neck. The remedy is a 
very simple one, and not quite so foolish as it looks, 
for if the poor devil has any olfactory nerves, he could 
hardly withstand such an attack upon them. 

Grown-up people are also frequently possessed — 
men but rarely, but many women, and of the Abys- 
sinian women, nearly one-half. Convulsive attacks, 
want of appetite, and general apathy, the desire to 
remain shut up in dark rooms, and such propensities, 
are taken as sure signs. A person, thought to be 
possessed, is treated with a tremendous amount of 
respect, or rather — fear ! 

A special examination takes place to find out whether 
a person be really possessed. For this ceremony a 
party is invited, of which all the guests must be 
acknowledged habitations of the evil one. These 
pitiable victims form a kind of secret society, in which 
they keep their movements quite dark. 

The newly attacked woman sits down in a dark room, 
wrapped so completely in her schele, that she cannot 
be touched by the slightest ray of light. She is then, 
in the true sense of the word, smoked out, a vase con- 
taining strong incense being held close to her nostrils. 
The company round her begin to sing a strange song, 
wagging their heads all the time to and fro. Some 
Abyssinian concoction, composed of corn and dates, 
which tastes rather pleasant, is a beverage necessary 
for the occasion. I have been told that all these com- 



216 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

bined influences put the victim into a state of second 
sight ; she first talks incoherently, until at last she 
raves with foam at the mouth. Then is the time that 
the spirit has taken possession of her. The company 
present enter into conversation with this spirit, and 
request to be informed what it wants ; for it must be 
understood that the sick are not plagued by evil spirits 
alone — there are also good spirits, that may have 
taken a special fancy to a person, wishing to protect 
her in life. Sometimes it occurs that two spirits, a 
good and a bad one, contest for the same person, and 
during this exorcism they are sure to manifest them- 
selves. It is said that frightful scenes sometimes 
ensue on such occasions, which none but the very 
bravest can face out. 

Frequently an expert woman will drive out an evil 
spirit ; with a good one a kind of agreement is made, 
allowing it to pay visits to its victim at times, when it 
would be well received, on condition that it predicts 
what may befall the possessed one, as well as her 
relations. 

Possessed people are in the habit of drinking the 
blood of immolated animals, such as fowls and goats ; 
they devour eggs and meat raw. Of course the poor 
people who have undergone such an examination 
suffer from its effects for many a day afterwards. 

In these cases I was also able to observe how fast a 
bad example is followed by others. In spite of the 
superstitious views of all Mahometans, the Oman 
people are far from believing in all the nonsense I 
have just described. When they come to Africa, they 
look upon everything at first as only fit for negroes, 



DISEASES AND MEDICAL TUEATMExNTT. 217 

and would wish to return borne at once. After a 
short stay, however, they are more susceptible and 
credulous than all the rest put together. 

But enough of this melancholy subject ! 

In conclusion, I should like to ask if it would not 
be more humane to import female physicians into 
Zanzibar instead of those horribly demoralizing 
spirituous liquors ? Must corruption always precede 
civilization ? There is a great opening here for 
Christian charity, that would bear fruit hundredfold, 
without any great obstacles in the way. For my part 
I am perfectly willing, in case a society undertake to 
send out a qualified person, to instruct the same in 
Arabic and Suahely ; this is the least service I can do 
my dear native home. But it must be a female 
physician ; she will be able to do more good in the 
East than ten medical men combined. A kind woman 
with pleasing manners would be received with open 
arms by all Eastern ladies. She would not only find 
herself well rewarded, but soon acknowledge herself 
that she is doing a good and charitable deed. 



15 



CHAPTER XXV. 

SLAVERY. 

This chapter treats of one of the most conflicting 
subjects of the day. I am perfectly aware that I 
shall not make any friends by the opinions I hold, 
but nevertheless consider it my duty to state them 
frankly. I have met everywhere with a great deal 
of ignorance in regard to this question, and even 
those people who are more intimately acquainted 
with it frequently overlook the fact that it is not 
called into existence solely and purely by the humane 
efforts on the part of Europeans, but that political 
interests are often a secret incentive. 

I was still a child at the expiration of the term 
after which, as convened between my father and 
Great Britain, the slaves of all British subjects 
in Zanzibar, the Hindoos and Banyans, were to be 
set free. These were hard times for the owners, who 
complained bitterly ; many of the upper classes sent 
their wives and daughters to entreat our intercession, 
which, of course, w T as utterly outside our power. Some 
of them had a hundred or more slaves on their 
estates ; all these received their liberty on one day, 
which caused the ruin of their owners. The latter 
could procure no men to work their plantations, and 



SLAVERY. 219 

consequently they could get no revenues from them ; 
besides which, our beautiful island had the ques- 
tionable good fortune of suddenly finding itself saddled 
with a few thousand idlers, vagabonds, and thieves. 
These great children thus set free enjoyed their liberty 
as a release from their bondage, and its inflicted duties, 
but what was their physical condition in life on waking 
from their short dream of happiness ? They found 
themselves for the first time in their lives thrown 
upon their own resources, homeless, and utterly 
without means of maintenance. The apostles of the 
anti-slavery unions, after fighting hysterically for the 
liberty and rights of citizenship for the slave classes, 
disappeared on having gained their point, making 
no more provision for their 'proteges than if they had 
been lilies of the field, except in so far — and probably 
to complete the grim farce — that their ladies at home 
sent woollen socks for the lilies on the burning soil 
of Africa. Everybody who has lived in the United 
States, Brazil, or any country where there are negroes, 
will corroborate the fact that, apart from many good 
qualities, the black race cannot be induced to work, 
but only forced. 

As I said, only British subjects were henceforth for- 
bidden to keep slaves. The English could not inter- 
fere with the laws and customs of our country, and 
slavery exists to this day in Zanzibar as well as in 
all Mahometan States of the East. One must, how- 
ever, be careful not to judge slavery in the East by 
the same standard that is applied to slavery in the 
United States or in the Brazils. The slave of a 
Muslim is in quite a different and far superior position. 



220 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

The worst features of this institution are the slave 
trade and the transport of these poor people from the 
interior of the continent to the coast. Great numbers 
perish of fatigue and of hunger and thirst, but all this 
is shared also by their leader. It is absurd to suppose 
that the slave traders cause these great hardships 
and privations on purpose ; their own advantage 
requires to bring out the people in the best possible 
condition, as they have often invested their whole 
fortune in such an enterprise. 

Once arrived, the slaves are for the most part well 
cared for. They have of course to work for their 
masters without wages, but they have no care them- 
selves, and their welfare is always studiously looked 
after. Is every non-Christian of necessity a creature 
without a heart ? 

The negro, above all, is fond of his ease — works only 
when he is compelled to, and then requires the 
strictest control even for the little work he is required 
to do in our parts. Neither are they an easy family 
to rear and keep, for there are a great many thieves, 
drunkards, deserters, and incendiaries among them. 
What is to be done with these ? To overlook their 
sins would be to encourage them in their practice. 
Imprisonment they would not resent, but on the con- 
trary, court it, and revel in their cool retreat, eating, 
drinking, and dreaming their time away. 

Under these circumstances there is only one ex- 
pedient — corporal punishment. A great outcry is 
raised about this in Europe, especially by those who 
are more richly possessed of well-sounding theories 
than of practical knowledge and insight. 



SLAVERY. 221 

Cruelty and despotism is justly condemned every- 
where, may its victim be a poor negro or a civilized 
person languishing in a Siberian mine. But all 
things must be fairly considered, nor is every in- 
stitution alike justifiable or applicable. With Eastern 
nations slavery is a very ancient institution. I 
doubt if it could ever be completely abolished, and 
in any case it is folly to attempt sweeping away old 
customs in a bluster of enthusiasm. Every good 
thing must take its time, and be confronted with good 
examples. There are a good many Europeans in the 
East who keep slaves themselves, and who buy them 
if they find it in their interest to do so. Such things 
are, of course, not reported home, or they are excused 
on the plea that they have been done " in the in- 
terests of science." Science must serve as a pretence 
to many an evil. The morality, however, remains 
the same, whether the Arab puts his slaves to field 
or domestic work, or whether they be employed as 
carriers and porters by Europeans, the latter being 
much harder and more trying work. Nor are these 
European slave-keepers always humane enough to 
set the slaves they have bought free when they require 
them no longer, as the Arabs often do ; they simply 
resell them. The Mahometan population of Zanzibar 
were greatly incensed on one occasion against an 
Englishman who, before returning to Europe, secretly 
sold his woman-slave to an Arab official. 

With one or two more such cases of inconsistency 
on the part of Europeans that I could quote it is not 
surprising if Arabs look on their civilized visitors 
with an eye of suspicion, and wish back those happy 



222 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

times when they had nothing to fear from their sub- 
verting ideas. They have taken it into their headsthat 
the object of suppressing slavery was solely to work 
the slowruin of their nation, and ultimately of their God. 

If people really think that slavery can be abolished 
by degrees, and that other important changes can be 
effected beyond that, then the greatest caution will 
be necessary, and slow advancement step by step. 
The negroes must first be trained to think and to 
work, and their masters must be taught in an intuitive 
manner, and in a form admitting of no doubt as to 
its disinterested motives, that by employing good 
agricultural implements and machinery they could 
easily do without those hundreds of slaves which are 
now required to cultivate their lands. The i\.rab must 
be brought to understand that there is no intention 
to ruin him, and that he is to be treated and weighed 
in the same balance as the negro. 

In my opinion it would have been more judicious 
to adopt the slow and sure course, than ostentatiously 
to build a church on the slave market, for which there 
was no need, as two existed already, one Catholic and 
the other Protestant, and both with very meagre con- 
gregations. That this must have been offensive to 
Eastern people will easily be understood by those 
who know a little about things there. The Arab, like 
all Eastern races, is conservative by nature, and 
adheres with great tenacity to his traditions. He 
must not be hurried into innovations which appear 
to him impossible and incomprehensible. His objec- 
tions are peremptorily put down to Mahometan fana- 
ticism and religious intolerance. But the following 



SLAVEEY. 223 

may show that this intolerance is by no means so 
great as it is described. When I revisited Zanzi- 
bar after a nineteen years' absence all came to 
meet me with the greatest friendliness — the people 
even left the mosques to welcome me and to wish me 
all blessings ; and if my countrymen had really been 
the religious fanatics they are reported to be, I, as a 
renegade, would have deserved and roused their in- 
dignation much more than a born Christian. It is 
therefore not intolerance which governs them, but a 
sense of self-preservation, increased and intensified 
by the fact that their most vital interests and rights 
are encroached upon by reckless, high-handed inno- 
vators, and often by utterly worthless, inefficient re- 
presentatives of civilization and Christianity. 

The negro, however, is at present still very indif- 
ferent to religious matters, and certainly such is the 
case in Zanzibar with the greater part of the black 
race. Many become Christians merely from selfish 
motives. An English missionary who has worked for 
many years at Membase (Mombas, a little island to 
the north of Zanzibar) complained to me once that 
the number of his converts had always risen and 
fallen with the duration of the supplies he received 
from England. Hence I regret that, before fami- 
liarizing the negro with higher doctrines, his religious 
sense must first be awakened and nursed with an 
untiring care ! For this reason many of those brave 
men may have failed after risking their strength, 
their health, and their lives even in the attempt to 
deepen the shallow level of the negro soul, and then 
to lift his race into culture and Christianity. 



224 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

The objection might be raised against me that I 
am not a fair judge on the slave question ; that, 
having grown up with Eastern views, I am unable 
now to release myself from them or weigh the mattsr 
calmly. In vindication of which I here produce as 
momentous evidence the views of some ultra-Euro- 
peans on this subject. 

The African traveller, P. Eeichard, wrote in 1881 
from Gonda : 

"In the night of the 12th of October, I was aroused 
by the shrieks of a woman who asked for admit- 
tance. I sent Askart to discover the reason of this 
noise, and was told she wanted to get into my place, 
having quarrelled with her husband, and smashed 
some object of value, that she might, by the custom 
of the country, become our slave. Three similar cases 
happened to a native Arab within a short time, who, 
however, obtained compensation, and it is by no 
means an uncommon occurrence for a free man, dis- 
satisfied with his position, again to become a slave in 
this way. This is a clear and distinct proof of the 
exaggeration and one-sidedness of many of the reports 
on slavery, which depict their condition in dark, 
and I might say, non-existing, colours. . . . 

" The position of a slave once settled down, is by no 
means worse, at least as good, and frequently much 
better, than in his own country. The tribes south of the 
Tanganika, for instance, are governed by very cruel 
sultans, and slaves coming from that place to this 
would on no account go back again. 

"The slave of the Arab is not at all overburdened 



SLAVERY. 225 

with work, and criminals alone are condemned to cor- 
poral punishment j greater severity than that which 
exists would necessitate many more overseers, and 
an enormous additional expense. Moreover, the 
slaves of Arabs are generally set free after having 
served faithfully ten to fifteen years. 

" Slaves owned by natives are considered as mem- 
bers of the family, and enjoy their own free will. 
They are not punished even when they show their 
masters open defiance — as, for instance, going down 
to the sea-shore and hiring themselves out as 
pagasi (porters)." 

An Englishman, Mr. Joseph Thompson, says in his 
book, " Expedition to the Lakes of Central Africa" : 

" All classes of society showa cheerfulness and happi- 
ness, which would appear uncommon everywhere, but 
this is an ideal land, where four shillings and sixpence 
suffice all day to live in plenty. Half-starved or ill- 
treated slaves are nowhere to be seen ; for as soon as 
any cases of barbarous treatment come to the know- 
ledge of the' sultan (of Zanzibar) the sufferers are at 
once set free, and protected against the cruelty of their 
masters. It would seem, indeed, as if this class here 
is in a particularly comfortable position, and enjoys 
ten times more liberty than thousands of our clerks 
and shop girls." 

Another Englishman, who had lived long in the 
East, and who knew the state of things there well, 
once expressed himself to me in a shorter and more 



226 



MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 



drastic term; lie simply called the anti- slavery 
movement, with its countless meetings, " bosh." 

In conclusion, I should like to call attention to one 
more fact. Gordon, who at one time was one of the 
greatest adversaries to slavery and the slave trade, 
began his second short government of the Soudan by 
abolishing his former laws. He may not have been 
convinced of the necessity of slavery in Africa, but 
he may have been sensible of the necessity not to 
suppress at one stroke an institution so deeply rooted, 
but to gradually mitigate its effects before abolishing 
it completely. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 

Since my father's death I had lived with my mother 
and Chole at Bet il Tani, happy in their friendship 
and love, for about three years, when suddenly a fear- 
ful cholera epidemic spread over the town and the 
whole island, and snatched away many people in our 
house. It was during the hottest season, and finding 
it impossible to get any rest in bed, I had one night 
got a soft mat spread out on the floor to lie down 
upon, but was not a little shocked, upon waking in the 
morning, to find my dearly beloved mother writhing 
with pain at my feet. To my anxious questions she 
replied that she had been there half the night already, 
and that feeling herself attacked by cholera, she 
wished to die near me at least, if it was so decreed. 
I was well-nigh distracted at seeing my dear mother 
suffer from the malignant disease without being able| 
to help her. For two days longer she withstood its 
attacks, then she was taken from me for ever. 

My grief was boundless, and without heeding the 
warnings of my friends, who were afraid I might 
catch the disease, I clung frantically to the dear body. 
My only desire was to leave this world together with 



228 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

my mother, but God willed that I should be spared, 
and to His will I at last found strength to resign 
myself. 

I was now barely fifteen years old, an orphan, a 
ship without a rudder tossing in the sea. My mother's 
prudence and good sense had always guided me, and 
now I was all of a sudden to take upon myself the 
duties of a grown-up person, and the responsibilities, 
not only of myself, but also of the welfare of my 
servants. When I came to a clear understanding of 
my position, God helped me to do my duty and to 
manage my affairs without the assistance of others. 
Nevertheless, trials did come, and I succumbed to 
them, for, without knowing myself how it had been 
brought about, I found myself drawn suddenly into a 
conspiracy against my noble brother Madjid ! 

It was just as if my father's death had been the 
signal for general discord amongst us, instead of 
uniting us more, as it ought to have done. It certainly 
may be difficult to maintain perfect concord and 
unanimity amongst thirty-six brothers and sisters, 
and thus we divided into groups of threes and fours, 
according as affection drew us together. Our position 
was quite incomprehensible to strangers, and even our 
friends became, quite against their wills, involved in 
our feuds. A loyal friend of my brother's, or a true 
friend of my sister's, must needs become my most 
bitter enemy — unless these belonged to my special 
circle — whatever their personal feelings toward myself 
might be. Such utter disunion could of course only 
end in disaster. Still, with hot passion we pursued 
each other blindly, and hated without a cause. 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 229 

We soon ceased to have any personal intercourse 
•with our belongings, but instead kept numerous spies, 
who took care to widen the gulf by informing us 
secretly of every word said, and every project made by 
our adversaries. These worthy persons always made 
their appearance at night to receive their reward, 
which varied according to the gravity of the news they 
had to report. Gold coins had never slipped so fast 
through our lingers before ; frequently we did not 
even count them, but took a handful of gold from 
our kis (pocket) in acknowledgment of some daring 
and successful deed. Sometimes we were roused at 
night by a muffled person demanding to be admitted 
by the gate-keeper — and such nightly visits not only 
lightened our purses considerably, but often kept us 
from going to sleep again if the messenger had com- 
municated some particularly perturbing news. Indeed, 
(Ve seemed to be, one and all of us, labouring under 
some sudden attack of madness, and no pains were 
spared when w r e could annoy or thwart an antago- 
nist. If one seemed inclined to buy a line horse, a 
house, or an estate, his opponents promptly out-bid 
him four and six times beyond the value, to the great 
satisfaction of the owners. If one sister appeared 
with a new article of jewellery, the jew 7 eller was sure 
to receive orders from all sides for one just like it, 
or a still more beautiful one. The people soon found 
this out, and merchants and workmen rapidly learnt 
how to turn our discord to their advantage. 

Mad j id and Chole had been on very good terms up 
to this time, at which I was delighted, for I was very 
fond of both ; after my mother's death they had 



230 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

treated me like a child of their own. But the good 
relations between them began gradually to get cooler 
on account of my brother Bargasch, and this ended 
finally in a complete rupture. I was always strongly 
attached to Chole, but in truth I am bound to state 
that the fault was hers and not Madjid's. I cannot 
here give an account of all the circumstances which 
preceded this rupture, only that we were all, as it 
were, completely blinded and maddened. 

It was a period of great, conflict for me. I lived in 
one house with Chole ; we took our meals together and 
were hardly apart all day. Without any reason, she 
commenced to avoid Madjid,and ended by wishing him 
every possible evil. At first, I hoped to be able to 
remain neutral, and I even ventured to take my 
brother's part, whose only guilt was his being sultan 
instead of Bargasch. But passion knows no justice, 
and Chole continued to nurse her grudge. 

I was thus placed for some months between two 
fires — I wished to act for the best and could do 
nothing — I hesitated to choose between the two per- 
sons equally dear to me ; and when I could not longer 
put off my decision, I sided with Chole, whoni, though 
in the wrong, I cherished most, and who by degrees 
ruled me completely. Is there anything we can deny 
those we fondly love. What avails our faint inner voice 
— justice — when love cries aloud ? For their sake we 
abandon our views, our principles, our most sacred 
convictions — as a tree loses its withered leaves in 
autumn, without its sound trunk being able to help it. 

•Madjid, a thoroughly noble-minded man, possessed 
the love of all his people. He was, however, of weak 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 231 

health, unable to act always for himself, and for this 
reason he had to leave a good deal to his ministers. 
One of these, Slernan bin Ali, unfortunately had the 
knack of making himself indispensable to his master. 
He was a crafty, selfish man, who gradually contrived 
to get all the power into his hands, and to reduce the 
other ministers to mere ciphers ; he even carried his 
presumption so far as to act the master whenever a 
favourable opportunity presented itself. And yet with 
the dignity he arrogated, he was far from having 
attained those years which every Arab holds in respect 
and deference, or from possessing sufficient discretion 
to disguise his dandyism and libertinism. In his 
unbounded ambition, he sued for the hand of one of 
my stepmothers, a Circassian named Fatme, who was 
old enough to be his mother ; she was foolish enough 
to accept him, but lived to regret this bitterly. 
Sleman's only object had of course been to get her 
large fortune into his hands. 

This evil spirit gained a great influence over Madjid, 
and in secret he managed to incite all brothers and 
sisters one against the other in order to increase his 
own power. He succeeded too well in his plots every- 
where ; quarrel upon quarrel took place in our family, 
many notables were insulted and neglected, and things 
grew gradually so bad that the people began to mur- 
mur and complain aloud. 

Fortunately, there was one brave and honest man 
at least among the ministers, who did all he could to 
w r eaken the effects of Sleman's actions, and to redress 
them. This man was Mhamed bin Abd Allah il 
Shaksi, a very rich and also a very generous and 



232 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

noble-minded man, who would never have committed 
a mean or selfish deed himself. As a matter of course, 
he was by no means on good terms with his colleague. 

My brother Bargasch next endeavoured to tuna 
the discord between the brothers and sisters, and the 
discontent of part of the people, to his profit. Madjid 
had only one daughter and no son, Bargasch was 
therefore the next successor to the throne, and had 
generally been regarded as the heir-presumptive since 
my father's death. That two elder brothers, Turki 
and Mhammed, were still living in Oman, was not 
taken into account at all, for Oman was such a long 
way off ! 

In the East, the heirs-presumptive to a throne are 
always in a hurry to possess themselves of it — they 
endeavour to forget the fact that others may have a 
better title, and speedily overcome all scruples about 
justice and honour. 

This was the case with Bargasch. He had failed 
in usurping the power at my father's death, but had 
never abandoned his plans. He began more seriously 
to think of carrying them into effect after having 
removed with his sister Meje from Bet il Mtoni to the 
town. They resided in a house opposite to the one in 
which Chole and myself lived, and which had once 
been used as a residence for the cavaliers of the 
Princess Schevade of Persia. 

Now began a time of great excitement to all of us. 
I, as a sister, cannot well recount all that occurred, 
although there are certain acts which almost defy 
silence. But even the harshness with which he con- 
tinues to treat me, cannot induce me to lift the veil, for 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 233 

I still remember our Arab saying, that " all the sea 
is not deep enough to wash away blood-relationship." 

Hardly had the brother and sister taken up their 
residence near us, when a great friendship sprang up 
between Bargasch and Chole, and the former soon 
began spending his days with us. Meje took this as 
a neglect shown to herself, and complaining about it 
to others, there came a soreness between the two sisters 
that prevented them looking at each other when they 
met. Things assumed a more and more uncomfort- 
able aspect, till finally peace disappeared entirely from 
our houses. I rejoiced at not being concerned in 
this new quarrel, but being made the confidant of both 
angry sisters, I was soon drawn into it against my 
will. 

Chole did not act rightly with regard to Meje — 
indeed she was not quite herself all this time. Bar- 
gasch was her idol, to whom she sacrificed everybody 
without hesitation, and I, to whom she was all in all, 
followed her lead in everything. Secretly, I felt a 
sincere pity for poor Meje, for, in spite of her 
pride, I could not help admiring her justice and com- 
mon sense. She alone foresaw that no good would 
come of this party conspiracy against Madjid, and 
she never tired of warning us. 

The friendship which my two nieces, Schembua and 

Farschu, had for me was soon extended to Bargasch 

also. They lived just opposite our house, theirs being 

only separated by a narrow lane from that of Bargasch. 

Our three houses formed thus a dangerous centre for 

the conspiracy. 

It became now Bargasch's main object to gain over 
16 



234 MEMOIRS CF AN ARABIAN PRIXCESS. 

a number of notables and chiefs. The Arabs are 
divided into numberless larger and smaller tribes, 
each of which has a chief, who is implicitly obeyed. 
It is of moment, therefore, to each prince to be on 
good terms, either openly or in secret, with one or 
more such chiefs, to make sure of their aid in 
case of need. They are, of course, always promised 
some prospective post of importance or some other 
advantageous remuneration. No tribe will ever desert 
its chief, for their attachment is proof against 
every temptation. Those who can write never omit 
to sign the name of their tribe ; we, for instance, 
belong to the " Lebu Saidi," a small but brave tribe, 
and I have always to append this in signing m}^ name 
in full. 

Bargasch gained over several of these chiefs, and 
by degrees they formed quite a small court round him, 
which caused a good deal of stir in the island ; and 
by and by it transpired that the majority of his sup- 
porters were people of bad repute, men known to be 
turbulent and reckless, from whom he ought to have 
kept aloof altogether, but who were about his person 
night and day. And no wonder either — for what 
upright, honest man could have joined his conspiracy. 

As the number of these bad and doubtful characters 
who gathered round him increased, and as soon as we 
clearly realized the true bent of his plans, all those 
withdrew from him who had more the interests of our 
family at heart than his wild projects. Their places 
were, however, soon filled again by a class of men 
that seem ever ready to grow out of the ground with 
the noble and self-imposed task of fighting the cause 



my mother's death, a palace revolution. 235 

of the oppressed — whilst at the same time dealing a 
blow at a long-cherished personal grievance. Dozens 
of these malcontents considered themselves already 
his future ministers or the happy possessors of other 
high appointments, or of fortunes that could in no 
otherwise have fallen to their lot, except by a baneful 
violation of the laws of merit. Characters of this 
sort arrived from all parts to join the conspirators, 
apparently with the desire to serve Bargasch, in 
reality to serve themselves. The most desperate were 
not only received, but hailed with joy ! 

After having gathered together a sufficiently large 
number of such partizans, the details of the projected 
rising were more minutely considered. The plan con- 
ceived was to seize Macljid unawares and to proclaim 
Bargasch Sultan. Preparations for open fight had to 
be made, meetings were held upon meetings, always 
presided over by Bargasch himself, to gain over one 
or the other chief. They always took place at night, 
sometimes towards morning, when the moon had gone 
down. A state of feverish excitement and deep mis- 
trust towards everybody had taken hold of us all ; we 
were always in fear of being observed or espied, and 
frequently did domestic duties ourselves, only to keep 
our servants out of earshot of our dark designs, and 
visiting was long since at an end. 

Bargasch became more excited every day. Hitherto 
he had regularly attended, like the other princes, all 
the audiences presided over by Macljid ; now, however, 
he began to neglect them, and to appear only once 
a week, until he finally remained away altogether. 
This with us is considered a sign of great discontent, 



236 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

and a subject keeping ostentatiously aloof lays himself 
open to punishment. There could be no longer any 
doubt now about his hostile projects, which many 
would not give credit to previously. His quick temper 
made him behave very imprudently, for he roused the 
suspicion of his adversaries, and in consequence the 
attempt at a sudden surprisal had to be abandoned. 

In secret Macljid endeavoured once more to show 
me the error of my ways before it was too late. As 
he could not come to Bet il Tani himself under the 
circumstances, and as I had not been to his house for 
a long time, he sent one of my most favourite step- 
mothers to beg me in his name not to take part in 
the intrigues of his enemies, or to allow myself to be 
seduced by them ; that I could never expect any thanks 
in that quarter, but would be sure to repent my 
adherence to the bad cause. I was also told that in 
that case I must take upon myself all the consequences 
of my actions, as he would be unable to make any 
exception on my behalf or to protect me if a bombard- 
ment of the house in our neighbourhood was to take 
place afterwards. 

My noble brother's warning arrived too late. I had 
already plighted my word to Chole and to Bargasch, 
and considered it my sacred duty to keep and fulfil 
my promise. My stepmother left me in deep sorrow, 
weeping bitterly ; she had meant well, and had at a 
later date the sad satisfaction of recalling to my 
memory the justice of Madjid's prediction. To escape 
the risk of being distrusted or called a mother of two 
faces* for any supposed double dealing, I thought it best 

* A byword given in our country to false women. 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 237 

to avoid all further intercourse with Madjid, and to 
devote myself entirely to the cause of the conspiracy. 

It would have been easy for Madjid at this time to 
have had his badly-advised brother and his adherents 
arrested, now that there were so much stronger 
grounds for suspicion, and to imprison them all in 
some fortress until they had repented them of their 
ways. But it was not in his nature to be severe, and 
he could not be brought to take such a measure ; he 
still hoped to see his brother turn back, seeing that no 
other reason for enmity existed between them, and 
fearing that a premature punishment might sever 
them for ever. Above all, he was desirous to spare us 
four women, mixed up in this affair, at all hazards. 

Thus for a long time Madjid shut his eyes ; but 
when whole crowds of men, muffled in their " Barnus" 
besieged the doors of Bargasch's house, the Govern- 
ment at last decided to have our houses watched. By 
this measure however little was gained, for the 
watchers were Bluchcs, soldiers enlisted in Beluchis- 
tan, who were greatly attached to our dynasty and 
would rather have run any risk themselves than 
compromise any of its members. This the wily 
plotters knew perfectly, and made their arrangements 
accordingly. We women undertook to carry out the 
more dangerous missions ourselves, without regard to 
existing custom. No one ventured to molest us, while 
others were followed and searched. At times one or 
the other imprudent person was arrested, but this did 
no great harm to our proceedings. We were all like so 
many busy ants, all working hard for the success of 
our enterprise. Our spies informed us that the 



238 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Government had at last decided to put an end to our 
doings by either imprisoning all suspicious persons 
or evicting them from the island. When this news 
reached us our preparations were not yet completed, 
so we redoubled our efforts. Quantities of hard cakes 
were got ready and brought at night to Marseilles, 
which was to be our head-quarters. 

Although I w T as the youngest female member of the 
conspiracy, they made me on account of my ability in 
writing, the secretary, and as such had to do all the 
correspondence with the chiefs. I was indeed old 
enough already to have many pangs of remorse, and 
the thought preyed heavily on my mind that the 
ammunition and guns I was ordering were intended 
to cause the death of many innocent people. But 
what could I do now ? Was I to break my word and 
forsake my dear sister at the very moment w r hen 
danger became imminent? It was, indeed, not 
sympathy with the cause that urged me on, but sheer 
idolatry for Chole. 

Bargasch, the son of an Abyssiniau woman, is a man 
of great talent, and he was much superior to us in 
intelligence and foresight. Proud and imperious in 
manner, he understood the art of impressing the 
masses ; but the fact that of all our large family only 
four female members, and one single brother, Abdil 
Aziz, who was scarcely twelve years old at the time, 
and moreover Chole's fosterchild, sided with him, 
proves unmistakably how little he was generally liked. 
Since he had caused our father to be buried in secret, 
and without the customary ceremonies, he fell into 
universal odium — so that when he began to organize 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 239 

his conspiracy the true estimation in which he was 
held by his family came to the surface. I remember 
encountering upon one of my rare walks one nignt 
two of my sisters ; they accompanied me to within 
five, hundred paces of my house and then hurriedly 
retreated from fear of approaching the neighbourhood 
of his dwelling. 

We worked on unremittingly in spite of the search- 
ing watch set over us, and even the meetings were 
continued under real difficulties. Already the day was 
fixed for the open rebellion, when suddenly Bargasch's 
house was surrounded by several hundred soldiers. 
The time had been chosen when he was sure to be 
indoors, with strict orders to cut off all communication 
until its occupants surrendered voluntarily. This 
change in the aspect of affairs was naturally a great 
blow, but we kept up our energies nevertheless. 

Of course we expected the same fate to overtake us, 
and then indeed our cause would have been lost 
altogether. We afterwards learned that the ministers 
and the other members of the council had voted for 
the blockade of all the dangerous houses, but Madjid 
would not give his consent to this in his desire to 
spare us women. 

A few minutes after the appearance of the soldiers 
we six conspirators stood at our windows, two in each 
house, to take council over the narrow street as to 
what should be done next. We were almost on the 
point of breaking down for good, but Bargasch would 
not listen to anything like submission. 

But a very distressing fact now rose to our minds. 
Hardly any of the houses in Zanzibar have pumps, so 



240 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

that people collect their water from public wells. 
Bargasch's establishment had been provided, for pre- 
caution's sake, with a good supply some days before, 
but in the hot weather this water could not be used 
for drinking; at the best it would only do for washing 
and cooking purposes. Provisions were plenty, and 
the besieged had a sufficient stock to hold out for 
weeks ; but water, the one thing most needed in the 
tropics, was wanting. Under such circumstances it 
would have been 'impossible to resist for more than 
two days at the utmost. 

While the men were quite helpless, the inventive # 
genius of a woman found a way out of this dilemma 
and saved them from sudden defeat. She proposed 
to make a canvas hose and to convey water through 
it to Bargasch's house. The canvas was obtained, a 
few dozen hands got the hose ready within half an 
hour, and at dusk the captives could, be refreshed with 
a deliciously cool drink. We had, of course, to use 
great caution to escape our watch's observation ; 
fortunately, guards were placed only at the one door 
leading to the seashore — and they perhaps willingly 
shut an eye. 

Hitherto our partizanship, I mean the women's, 
had been of great use ; but now it devolved solely 
upon us to carry out the doubtful sequel. It was only 
through us that Bargasch from his windows was able 
to remain in communication with his party. Several 
of the chiefs had been shut up with him, and were 
placed in a very unpleasant position. As they could 
not move about the house freely wdiile my sister Meje 
stayed in it, they had to confine themselves to the 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 241 

assembly-room on the ground floor. The most influ- 
ential and energetic chief of the Hurt tribe was 
however at liberty and able to go on enlisting soldiers. 

Our whole plan had to be changed. It was decided 
to collect all our followers at Marseilles, the fine 
estate of my two nieces, and to fortify the place. 
It was not a bad idea, for Marseilles was already 
quite a little fortress and could easily shelter several 
hundred men. All the arms and the ammunition 
were carried there, the soldiers levied were quartered 
in its neighbourhood, whence they would exercise their 
instigations to rebellion over the entire island. As 
we strained every nerve the plan succeeded within a 
short time. Common funds for our operations we 
had none ; we therefore drew upon our private purses, 
from which every one of us also furnished a number 
of well-armed slaves. 

When everything had been secretly transported to 
Marseilles, we took council to wield our final stroke. 
This was nothing less than setting Bargasch free, to 
enable him, by restoring the head to the conspiracy, 
to conduct matters personally from Marseilles. We 
well knew that the undertaking was one fraught with 
danger, but fear was far from us : we were resolved to 
dare all risks. 

Hitherto we had not attempted to pay a visit to our 
captive brothers and sister, for we had no wish to call 
any special attention to ourselves, which would have 
endangered our enterprise, and we were, moreover, 
afraid of being refused admittance by the guards, a 
humiliation we were not eager to experience. But 
nothing venture nothing win ; all hesitation was now 



242 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

set aside, and the evening was fixed upon to carry out 
the abduction, as the only resource now left. 

After dark one night Chole and myself left our 
house, followed by a large and picked retinue, to be 
joined by our nieces with theirs, who, as prearranged, 
had left their home at the same time, and together we 
proceeded to Bargasch's house. Upon arriving at the 
door our advanced guard was stopped, but the soldiers 
had no idea who was to follow ; we could only succeed 
by undaunted courage. " Chole," I said to my sister, 
" we will go ourselves to the commanding officer and 
tell him who we are — surely they will respect us ! " 

This proposal was in violation of all custom, but the 
situation was too critical to allow of scruples ; our 
undertaking was altogether out of the common, so we 
might as well try and forget troublesome points of 
etiquette ! 

Chole and myself went up to the officers and in 
impressive language made a thrilling appeal to their 
manly feelings, which extraordinary and quite un- 
precedented proceedings had the effect of making their 
eyes stare wildly and their tongues speechless; but 
when at last the meaning of our words began to filter 
through to their brains they poured forth such humble 
excuses and prayers for pardon, that, conscious as I 
was of our guilty purpose, I almost betrayed my 
shame. However, pluck once more came to our 
rescue, and with countenances on which guileless 
innocence of design was depicted we proceeded on our 
dangerous way. 

We reached our destination, and were allowed to 
pay the prisoners a short visit, and having thus 



my mother's death, a palace revolution. 243 

effected so easy an entrance, we dared hope that our 
egress in company with our brother would be attended 
with equal success. 

We found Bargasch and Meje in a great state of 
excitement. They had witnessed the scene with the 
guard from above, and had begun to fear that we 
should be obliged to turn back after all, and leave 
them to their fate. But now Bargasch raised another 
difficulty ; he steadfastly declined to disguise himself 
in a woman's dress. For aught we knew our visit 
had already been reported and instructions been 
applied for. In his own dress he would never have 
been permitted to quit the house ; strict orders had 
been given to shoot down at once every suspicious 
person. We felt convinced that no one had dreamt of 
our undertaking such an audacious deed, for if so, 
other measures would most decidedly have been taken 
beforehand. We were literally standing on a volcano, 
that might open and swallow us up at any moment. 

Armed to his teeth, Bargasch at last consented to 
be wrapped in a Scheie, which only left his eyes free 
and Abd il Aziz was disguised in the same way. We 
chose the tallest women of our retinue to walk by the 
side of Bargasch, to render his height less conspicuous; 
and before starting we each said a silent prayer, 
which for all we knew might be our last. 

To escape suspicion we moved on in the usual 
deliberate gait, while our hearts were throbbing and 
well-nigh bursting with suppressed anxiety. Moreover, 
we chatted as we went, though we must have made 
superhuman efforts to conceal the trembling of our 
voices. But now we reached the outposts, when — oh ! 



244 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

rapture — the guard made way respectfully, and let us 
pass unmolested with our treasures. I need scarcely 
attempt a description of our relief after the horrible 
suspense we had endured, the breathless hovering 
between life and death when we approached the lion's 
jaws ! That memorable night passed as all earthly 
things do — but its memory is ineffaceable. 

We had written to inform several chiefs of our 
purpose, and they were to w r ait for us at a certain 
place outside the town with some of their followers. 
It was arranged that, unless we were there to keep our 
appointment at a given time, they were to consider 
our plan as aborted, and in that case they were to 
disperse and wait for further news, The meeting 
place was a long way off, hidden among, trees. 

We went through the inhabited part of the town at 
our ordinary pace, but once on the outskirts we took 
to our heels so as to be in time. We rushed over the 
fields like a hunted band, with our delicate feet in 
their gold and embroidered slippers, scrambled over 
hedges and ditches, on— on. Then our servants, 
who were ahead, cried out to us that we were making 
straight for a stubble field ; but what cared we, so 
long as our obstacles were not human beings ; but 
there was no fear of detection, having put our lamps 
out on leaving the town. Soon, however, we had to 
slacken our pace, for we were getting near the 
appointed place, and we women had of course to 
observe some amount of reserve. Then slight coughs 
were given as signals, and a voice was heard to ask 
under its breath: " Is it you, Highness?" and an 
answer being given in the affirmative, a general, 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 245 

" Praised be the Lord," burst forth. We had reached 
our goal in safety. 

Bargasch, who had been terribly agitated on the 
road, but had hardly uttered a word all the time, 
threw off his disguise, bid us a hurried farewell, and 
taking his little brother Abd il Aziz by the hand, at 
once disappeared in the darkness, as he had to reach 
Marseilles this very night. 

For a time we stood perfectly exhausted and 
speechless, looking after the retreating figures ; but 
it had grown very late now, and we had to return 
home, which we did in silence, and not without some 
trepidation. We separated as we approached the 
town, and avoiding the principal streets, reached our 
homes, having first divided ourselves into small de- 
tachments. 

But now in the quiet solitude of our chambers, the 
trials of the last few hours began to tell on us. It 
was, perhaps, not so much to the mental strain we 
felt ready to succumb ; but certainly the violent and 
altogether unusual exertions w r ere too great for our 
pampered bodies to pass over in silence. We all lay 
down and groaned and wept for the remainder of that 
night. Some of us fainted from sheer exhaustion. 
Sleep that would have put our shattered nerves right 
came not ; so we could do nothing but live over again 
the horror of the last few hours, and repeating over 
and over again for our own consolation that our 
wildest hopes had been realized, and that our nearest 
and dearest were in perfect safety. Of course, the 
slightest sounds our ear detected, or those imagined 
by our fevered brain, during that endless night, our 



246 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

guilty consciences magnified into the tramp of horses 
and the clank of arms. Our distorted vision positively 
saw the approach of the enemy who had come to 
inflict the punishment for our deeds ; and when those 
phantom shapes had vanished at last, our poor heads 
were once more distracted hy fresh sounds proceeding 
from a new quarter. 

We peeped from our windows and saw the guards 
passing quietly up and down outside the house in 
which Bargasch had been confined up till a few hours 
before. At dawn our servants summoned us to 
prayers as usual. Generally Chole and I said our 
prayers in separate rooms ; to-day, however, not know- 
ing what might be in store for us at any moment, we 
met in the same room for this purpose. Our fervent 
desire was that Bargasch might be safe at Marseilles 
by this time, about five o'clock in the morning. 

But soon enough bad news came in. Already at 
seven o'clock, we heard that our enemies had received 
full information of all that had passed during the 
night. A Bluchi soldier had recognized Bargasch in 
spite of his disguise, but out of respect to our departed 
father, in whose service he had been for many years, he 
deferred giving the alarm, thinking that it was Bar- 
gasch's intention to fly the country after getting free, 
and seeing no reason for betraying us. 

The market people, on reaching the town, reported 
having seen many Arabs hurry on to Marseilles, and 
a suspicion at once arose that this might be in con- 
nection with the conspiracy, though nothing certain 
was known. The Bluchi now considered it his duty 
to reveal what he knew of the case, and with that 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 247 

purpose apprised the Government. Upon examina- 
tion, he announced in explanation of his delayed 
report, that he would rather have sacrificed his life 
than have compromised the women. I never heard 
what became of the generous fellow afterwards, whom 
our deed had thrown into such conflict with his con- 
science. 

Nothing was now left for the Government to do but 
to put an end at once to open rebellion. Several 
thousand soldiers were despatched to Marseilles. We 
conspirators had counted upon success by means of a 
sudden surprise or by skirmishes ; but the open field 
had not been contemplated. The bombardment of 
Marseilles soon reduced that beautiful palace to ruins, 
and after an obstinate resistance and the loss of several 
hundred innocent lives, the rebels fell into the hands 
of the superior force. 

The reader will naturally ask, what was the lot of 
us women for the active part we had taken in the 
rebellion, and what kind of punishment was adjudged 
to us ? None. We should certainly not have come 
off so well had the decision rested with any one but 
noble and generous Mad j id — for indeed we had 
deserved a heavy penalty. 

The news of the fight and its result had not reached 
us when we learned one morning that Bargasch, whom 
we still believed at Marseilles, hadbeentotally defeated, 
and had returned a fugitive to his house. Meje was 
our informant. As for Bargasch, he remained con- 
cealed, and would not even come to the window. But 
still he scorned the idea of surrender, and declared his 
intention of holding out to the bitter end. 



248 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Beside himself and little Abd il Aziz, who had shown 
the greatest bravery notwithstanding his youth, a 
number of notables and many servants had arrived in 
groups, who completely filled the lower part of the 
house. With their assistance Bargasch yet hoped to 
carry out his plans, though he had failed with a far 
greater force. We also, in spite of the heavy loss we 
had sustained in property, in soldiers, and in slaves, 
and though we had sacrificed the friendship of our 
other brothers and sisters and relations, we had not 
yet come to our senses. In our blindness and obsti- 
nacy we would not believe in such a miserable failure. 

The news of Bargasch's return spread all over the 
town the same night. It was generally believed that 
he had come back to surrender to his brother, and 
Madjid himself desired to make his submission easy 
for him. Instead of soldiers, he sent his nephew, Sud 
bin Hilal, this time with a message to the effect that 
he would readily grant his pardon for all that had 
occurred, if Bargasch would promise to give up all 
rebellious plans for the future. Sud, a very gentle 
and kindhearted man, should deliver this message 
quite alone, in proof of his peaceful intentions. 

At first Bargasch would not even allow his nephew, 
who was considerably older than himself, to enter his 
house, and requested him to deliver his message from 
the street ; but Sud positively declined to do this. 
After being kept a long time waiting, the gate was 
just opened sufficiently to allow him to pass in alone ; 
after which he had to climb up the barricaded stairs. 
Preparations had everywhere been made to shoot down 
any one attempting to enter by force. The staircase 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 249 

could be closed at its upper landing by a massive trap- 
door, a contrivance which was only to be found in this 
house, and which dated from the times of our step- 
mother Schesade, and this door was covered with heavy 
boxes besides. In this rather humiliating manner 
Madjid's ambassador made his entrance ; and the 
result of his mission was equally painful, for he had 
to leave without having succeeded, Bargasch refusing 
in the most decided way to yield and to surrender. 

Mad j id had now no alternative left but force. In 
conferring with the British Consul, the latter con- 
vinced him at last of the necessity of putting a stop 
to these dangerous tumults, and offered his assistance 
to that end. An English gunboat happened to be 
in port, and owing to her small draft of water she was 
considered more suitable to anchor opposite Bargasch's 
house, than our own larger men-of-war. The crew 
disembarked to blockade the house, and if this step 
still took no effect it was resolved to bombard the 
palace, and to shoot every soul in it. 

I had one morning left my room, which looked out 
upon a narrow street, and from which there was no 
view of the sea, on my way to Chole to w 7 ish her good 
morning. I found her in great agitation, walking up 
and down her room, wringing her hands. " Oh, 
Salme, dearest, where have you been all this time ? " 
she exclaimed, plaintively ; and, showing me the 
English ship and the disembarked marines, she told 
me in broken sentences all that was happening. 

On reminding her that it w 7 ould never have come to 

this if she and Bargasch had only yielded in time, I 

was again answered with the olfl reproach, that I 
17 



250 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

showed too little ardour in their cause. But, in the 
name of heaven, I asked, what could I do more ? 
Had I not compromised myself as much as they ? 
Had I not staked my property without hesitation? 
Had I spared myself personally, whenever I could be 
of service to our party? All this appeared to be entirely 
forgotten now, when in the face cf my cooled sense 
and justice, I could not longer lend any countenance 
to this irrational enterprise. But I think I could 
have borne the taunt from any one better than from 
her I loved with all my being. 

The marines now began to fire upon Bargasch's 
house, at first with their muskets only. The balls 
entered the windows, and one passed close to Bargasch, 
and struck the wall behind him. When matters had 
become thus serious, he fled with Meje, Abd il Aziz, 
and the other occupants of the room, to the back of 
the house, to escape the bullets which were now sent 
flying about right and left. 

When the first shot was fired, Chole broke into con- 
vulsive crying, abusing Madjid, the Government, and 
the English all at one time, for the cruel measures 
they were adopting. The whole household, too, broke 
out in panic as the firing increased, for our house 
being immediately behind Bargasch's palace, we were 
likewise exposed to great danger. Some rushed about 
wildly, taking a tender farewell from everybody, and 
asking forgiveness where they thought it was needed, 
whilst those who were more calm packed up their 
jewels ready to carry away in their flight ; others 
again stood helplessly about, moaning and weeping, 
unable to collect their thoughts or come to a decision. 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 251 

Many prayed where they stood — in the passages, on the 
stairs, in the courtyard, or on the roof, which had 
been boarded in by palisades. Their example was 
soon followed by others, and instead of the general 
agitation we were soothed by the consciousness that 
not men's but the Lord's will is done, and that our 
fate is in His hands always. By and by we, one and 
all, were bent low with our foreheads on the ground 
in token of humble submission. 

All these hundreds of people, who, after getting over 
their first terrors, put their faith in the Lord, might 
have fled easily. There was nothing to prevent us 
seeking a refuge at Bet il Sahel, but not one thought 
of doing this. 

Unable to face such imminent danger any longer, 
Chole at last persuaded our obstinate brother to give 
in and tender his submission. Contrary to all rules 
of etiquette, she ran herself to the British Consul to 
announce this, and to demand a cessation of hostili- 
ties. It may be asked, why she did not go to Madjid 
to settle with him direct ? This question was put by 
a good many people in Zanzibar. They could not 
understand that Chole's and Bargasch's hatred of 
Madjid should be so great as to prevent them meeting 
on any consideration whatever. It must have been 
that they were too much ashamed of themselves ; 
that they would rather humble themselves (for it was 
a great humiliation in the eyes of every true Arab) in 
asking the assistance and the mediation of a foreign 
Power. At that time the English did not possess the 
supremacy they have at present in East Africa ; they 
had as little to do with the inner affairs of Zanzibar 



252 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

as the Turks or the Germans. It is only since 1875 
— thanks to their slave policy — that their power has 
greatly increased, and that circumstances are tending 
to the gradual decline and ruin of our people. 

Chole did not find the English Consul at home ; 
but as the people from Bargasch's house called out 
to the marines: " Aman, Aman" (Peace), they 
stopped firing, and an end was put to further ruin. 
If the gunboat had been in operation instead of the 
marines, there would be in all probability another sove- 
reign seated on the throne of Zanzibar to-day, and I 
should never have come to Europe. But one thing is 
quite certain, that we none of us would have got off 
so well if in the place of noble Madjid any other 
person had determined our fate. 

To prevent the recurrence of such a rebellion, it 
was decided to banish Bargasch to British India. This 
was done upon the advice of the British Consul ; the 
English, perhaps, wished to get him, as the pre- 
sumptive successor to Madjid, into their power to 
train him for future plans of their own. We met 
Bargasch and Meje once more that evening to bid our 
departing brothers good-bye, for Abd il Aziz had 
declared of his free will to share his brother's exile. 
They were ordered to embark the next morning, and 
were conveyed to Bombay in a British man-of-war. 
Bargasch stayed there for about two years, and then 
quietly returned to Zanzibar, succeeding, in 1870, 
after Madjid's decease, to the throne he had so eagerly 
coveted. 

Thus ended our enterprise, which had been com- 
menced with such sanguine hopes. It had cost us 



MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 253 

dear enough, especially our nieces, whose great wealth, 
however, soon recovered the heavy losses. Many of 
our hest slaves had fallen, and as many more wounded 
and invalided, reminding us continually of the mischief 
we had been the means of causing, though this was 
the smallest punishment we could expect to reap from 
the evil seed we had sown. But one great grief was 
still in store for us — the affection and regard of our 
brothers and sisters, of all our relations, that we had 
so wantonly forfeited, were lost to us for ever, and the 
sting in our remorse lay in that we felt their coldness 
to us to be in every way justified and the only attitude 
they could possibly assume. 

Madjid alone did not change from the large-hearted, 
magnanimous brother he had always been. He was 
repeatedly advised not to let us go without punish- 
ment, it being notorious that without our active co- 
operation Bargasch must have surrendered long before 
the sacrifice of life had been resorted to as the last 
means of restoring order. He replied that all this 
was quite triae, but that nevertheless it went against 
his principles to publicly humiliate any woman — a 
generosity which we were as far from deserving as he 
was from meriting the public opinion that his action 
was a sign of weakness on his part. 

I cannot say that our life henceforth was a bed of 
roses in the town. Eemaining friends we had very 
few indeed ; whilst our foes thought fit to watch our 
every action. Even the crafty Banyans so far conformed 
to the general odium in which we were held, by keep- 
ing aloof from us, but only during the day, for at 
dusk their scruples seemed to have vanished, and 



254 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

they would creep in stealthily and press on us those 
wares which they had not been able to dispose of 
before. So, considering the scanty attractions the 
city could offer me for the present, I decided to with- 
draw for a time to one of my estates. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 



A few days later I was hastening at sunrise, mounted 
on my little white donkey, to my plantation, Kisimbani. 
I intended to stay and take rest here for some time, 
until things had become a little more quiet and 
peaceable at home. Cliole, Meje, and my two nieces 
soon followed my example, and retired likewise into 
the country. 

Since my mother's death I had been but rarely, and 
then only for a day or two at a time, to my three 
plantations ; and after all that had passed I now 
enjoyed the quiet and repose of country life all the 
more. My mother had always shown a preference 
for Kisimbani, and many things there reminded me 
of her, so I revisited all the spots where she had 
liked to walk and to rest. I was now going to take 
into my own hands the pleasures as well as the great 
drawbacks that rise in the path of unmarried Arabian 
ladies, our laws of seclusion precluding every possi- 
bility of applying for male assistance. Etiquette even 
forbids us to speak to those of our officials who are 
free men. Orders and accounts can only be given by, 



256 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

and settled through, the medium of slaves. Very 
few great ladies can write themselves, and fewer still 
of single ladies have ever received a written account 
of any sort from their overseers, such as European 
landowners expect from their bailiffs once in the year. 
A mistress is generally satisfied if they provide the 
necessities of the household, and send in cash as 
many thousand dollars after the sale of the crops 
as they can. These sums are realized by the sale of 
cloves and cocoanuts ; but it is thought mean to 
sell potatoes, yams, or any other vegetables raised 
on the estates ; and the overseer is allowed to dis- 
pose on his own account of all the surplus. These 
people, who are mostly natives of Oman, soon acquire 
sufficient wealth with which they can return to their 
country and live and die in peace. 

"While I lived in town my overseer, Hassan, used to 
come once a week or fortnight from Kisimbani to 
hand in his report through my slaves and to ask for 
orders ; but now that I purposed staying at Kisimbani 
for a time, honest Hassan was very much in my way. 
The poor fellow himself was made very uncomfort- 
able at having to escape to all sorts of places lest he 
might even unintentionally happen to meet us. I 
therefore transferred him to another estate which he 
also managed, and replaced him by an Abyssinian 
slave, called Murdjan (Coral), a superior man for his 
station, who could also read and write. He was full 
of energy, and well able to manage a few hundred 
country slaves. The Abyssinian s are very smart 
people as a rule, and we purchased them in preference 
to negroes. 



KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 257 

I was now able to move and ride about as much as 
I liked without fear of confronting poor Hassan bin 
Alys at every turn of the road. I spent many happy 
hours daily in looking after my domestic animals, 
and visiting the old people in their huts, with dainties 
from my table for their toothless gums. The little 
slave children — -who are considered as a sort of 
property by their masters — were sent to me every 
day to be washed at the well with Eassel (the leaves 
of a tree which, dried and powdered, make a lather 
like soap), and then fed. They remained in some 
part of the courtyard for the remainder of the day 
under the care of a trustworthy female slave, until 
their parents returned in the afternoon from the 
fields to take them home. They were much better 
off this way than tied all day to their mothers' backs, 
exposed to the heat and glare of the sun. 

This free and untrammelled country life was ex- 
quisite enjoyment to me, and I rejoiced at having 
thus escaped all the troubles of the town. The wives 
and daughters of the notables on the adjoining estate 
called upon me, so I soon had my house full of guests 
for weeks and months together. 

Many strangers also came in to refresh and rest 
themselves after a long march, in the room set apart 
for men. This is a custom always practised with us, 
and the number of these guests was very considerable, 
as Kisimbani stood near two much frequented cross 
roads. 

Two sisters and one nephew had estates adjoining 
mine. The last was Fessal, the orphan son of Hilal, 
of whom I have already spoken as a very kind, but 



258 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

greatly misjudged man. I was the first to know him 
really well ; he attached himself to me with quite a 
childlike confidence, and came over to see me nearly 
every day. 

I was also in constant communication with the 
town. Two sets of messengers started on alternate 
mornings and returned with the news in the evening. 
I was heartily glad to receive now only visits of a 
harmless nature, after the tangled net I had been 
drawn into in the capital. • 

The great excitement which had followed the 
miserable failure of the conspiracy had at last given 
way to a feeling of greater quiet, but the dissent 
between the brothers and sisters continued unabated. 
I was, therefore, in no hurry to return or even to pay 
a short visit, though I could have easily ridden there 
in two hours ; but, instead, my friends came frequently 
to see me. 

My happiness would have been complete had I not 
missed one thing — the sea — which until now I had 
had before me all my life. My three plantations 
were in the interior of the island, but as I had decided 
to live in the country, and did not know at that time 
what it was to have an unfulfilled wish, I made up 
my mind to purchase a plantation at the seaside. To 
my regret this was not an easy matter, as all estates 
possessing this advantage were owned by people 
who cared more for the situation than for their rental. 
The "Dellal" (broker) who had, through my slaves, 
received instructions to make inquiries, declared that 
he would not rest until he had found such an estate, 
but still he failed. 



KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 259 

He had just arrived with this dismal news when a 
lady friend called, who mentioned to me that a cousin 
of hers had a small country seat close to the sea, and 
that residing, permanently in town, he had no use for 
it, and might possibly be induced to sell or at least 
let it to me. 

People in Europe are generally under the im- 
pression that the whole country is the private pro- 
perty of the Sultan and of his family, and that the 
subjects are quite defenceless in protecting their 
property against them ; indeed, that we have merely 
to take what we covet, without asking the owner's 
consent. But jurisdiction is not quite as primitive 
as all that with the Arabs, and private property there 
can no more be touched than anywhere else. The 
difficulties I had to contend with, notwithstanding the 
liberal offer I was prepared to make is, I think, a very 
good proof of my statement. I much regretted to 
learn during my last visit at Zanzibar, that a de- 
teriorating change has recently taken place in this 
respect, for it appears that the property of the British 
Consul was a present made to him by the Sultan, who 
had deprived the former owner of it without awarding 
any compensation. 

On the following morning we rode over to the 
estate, which was called Bububu, to have a look at 
it. The house was shut up, and it took some time 
before we could gain admittance. The grounds looked 
as if they had been allowed to take care of themselves 
of late ; but the house was spacious and well-built. 
Outside, in a courtyard, were the kitchens and servants' 
lodgings, A little river, reminding me greatly of my 



260 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

much-loved Mtoni, ran right through the court, and 
this was worth a great deal in itself in a hot clime 
like ours. The view from the upper story was per- 
fectly charming, large and small palm trees rose on 
either hand, and the front was huilt so close to the 
shore, that its walls at time's were washed hy the 
waves. 

I decided at once to huy or to rent Bubuhu, and 
sent my friend to her cousin next morning. She 
informed that he could not make up his mind to 
dispose of it, but that it would give him great pleasure 
to offer it me for as long as I cared to reside in it. 
This, however, I politely declined, and succeeded at 
last in obtaining a lease at a certain annual rental. 

About a week after signing tbe contract— for even 
that formality is gone through in Zanzibar — I removed 
to Bububu, where I once more delighted in the sight 
of the sea that I had known from my earliest youth. 
The only thing that saddened me was the parting 
from my nephew Fessal ; he took our separation 
much to heart, as he had no companion beyond his 
old stepmother. 

I took all my domestic animals with me ; they 
seemed not a little surprised at finding themselves 
suddenly in a new place, but evidently as satisfied 
with the change as myself. For hours together I 
would walk about here on the shore, watching the 
many ships and fishing boats that glided past on their 
way to the city. 

I was now much nearer to the latter, and could reach 
it both by sea and by land. Almost every day my 
three brothers, Abd il Wehab, Hanclan, and Djemschid, 



KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 261 

came out to see me, either on horseback or by boat. 
Many pleasant days and hours we spent together in 
this place, and in their company the time passed 
away very agreeably. 

I saw much more society here than at Kisimbani. 
Not a single day passed without one or two, and fre- 
quently as many as ten, ladies coming to stay with 
me for some days. I always look back with pleasure 
and regret on this beautiful, unclouded period of my 
youth. 

My stay at Bububu was not, however, to be of long 
duration. I was sweeping the sea one day with my 
glass, to see if any of my brothers were coming. 
A single boat soon came in sight, in which Abd il 
Wehab was alone this time, his looks betraying to 
me at once that he was the bearer of unwelcome 
news. 

" What news do you bring, Abd il Wehab, my 
brother ?" I asked, when he entered. 

" I have been sent with a request to you to-day, 
sister Salme, which is far from pleasing to me," he 
replied. " Only guess from whom." At my pressing 
questions, he continued : 

" You are aware that a new British Consul has 
lately arrived ? " 

" What do I care for him? Has he sent you, 
perhaps ? " 

"No!" 

" Well, then, speak out and tell me all, without 
tormenting me any longer ! " 

" Bat won't you be angry with me, Salme ? " 

" No, no ; but now out with it quick," I exclaimed. 



262 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

"Well, I am commissioned by — Mad j id, who en- 
treats you, if you still have any love for hiin, to give 
up Bububu. The new British Consul sent yesterday 
to him to inquire if he could have Bububu as his 
country seat." 

Madjid's request was a great blow to me. Any one 
else I should have refused point-blank, but could I 
again thwart Madjid, against whose government and 
life I had so wickedly conspired ? I had so far made 
no attempt at meeting him, although I felt convinced 
that he had condoned the past and wiped it from his 
memory. Now that he, the injured and offended one; 
took the first step himself (this was his meaning, for 
otherwise he might easily have told the consul that 
Bububu was not his to dispose of), I thought I might 
repay a small portion of the debt I owed him, by 
granting his request ; and I spoke to Abd il Wehab to 
this effect. 

Madjid had sent me word that if I consented he 
would get Abd il Wehab to procure a proper town 
residence for me, as he was aware that I did not wish 
to return to Bet il Mtoni. But I had not yet made 
up my mind where to go, and I asked for time to 
consider his proposal. 

I was, perhaps, for the first time in my life, really 
grieved at anything so material. But I had been so 
happy at Bububu, and could have had no desire for 
anything better. When Abd il Wehab left me after 
dinner, it was with the earnest request not to return 
to Kisimbani. Then I took a tearful leave of all my 
favourite spots. 

I struggled long before making up my mind to 



KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 263 

return once more into the turmoils of the capital, for 
it seemed as if I could not shake off certain gloomy 
presentiments. 

Next morning I wrote to Abd il Wehab that I should 
be ready to leave Bububu in a week's time, and would 
then place it at Madjid's disposal, and as I had 
decided to return to Kisimbani I made all necessary 
arrangements for this purpose. But in the afternoon 
my three dear brothers appeared, crying out simulta- 
neously: " Salme, we will hear no more of Kisimbani ! 
If you care for us in the least, you must return to 
live in town ! " And Djemschid jestingly continued : 
"If you are going to hide yourself on your plantation, 
we shall come at night and set it on fire ! " At the 
same time they begged me in their mothers' names 
(who were Circassian women all three) to come back 
to town. For the last time we all spent the day to- 
gether at pleasant Bububu, and then they left me 
and rejoiced at having prevailed on me to live in the 
town again. 



CHAPTER XXVIIL 

HY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 

I happened to be, a few days afterwards, one moon- 
light night, on the roof of my new town residence, 
procured for me by Abd il Wehab, talking to an old 
acquaintance, when Selim suddenly appeared to an- 
nounce Chole. 

"Oh, Salme, I never thought you were so bad as 
all that ! " These were the first words she exclaimed 
on entering. 

" Good evening, Chole ; and what ill have I done 
to you ? " I asked, quite taken by surprise, leading 
her to the seat of honour, the " Tekje." 

"You really pretend you have done nothing to me ? 
Is it nothing that you have given up Bububu to oblige 
Madjid and the godless Kafer ? " (Englishman). 

" But, my dear sister," I replied, a little hurt, 
" surely if I don't mind — and, besides, I explained 
the matter to you fully in my letter the other day." 

" I suppose you wished to insinuate yourself again 
into the good graces of the damned ? " (by whom she 
meant Madjid). 

" No, you are altogether mistaken ; it is no favour 
I want of any one, and that you know well enough 
Yourself." 



MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 2G5 

" Yes, I know that ; but why did you grant his 
request ? " she persisted, getting more and more 
excited. " And I understand it is he who induced 
you to live here instead of at Bet il Tani." 

" No, it was not he who asked me to do so, but 
Abd il Wehab, Hamdan, and Djemschid wished me to 
live here," I said. 

" Well, I see now that you have turned against us." 
she replied, rising and refusing the refreshments 
offered to her by the servant. " You may now choose 
between myself and Bargasch on the one side, and 
the slave of the Englishman on the other ! Good- 
bye ! " And without listening to another word she 
turned and went. 

I have never seen Chole since that day, though I 
lived for some years longer in the same town with 
her, and it was only after my departure that she re- 
lented. I often asked myself in what way I could 
have offended her, but could think of no intentional 
offence on my part ; my only object in giving up 
Bububu had been to relieve my own conscience of 
some of its load. And now this absurd reproach that 
I had been moved by motives of ultimate gain ! 
But on the evening when Chole had vented her dis- 
pleasure on me I remembered she was very much 
excited, and might have said more than she meant. 

Up to this time I had seen neither Mad j id nor 
Chadudj; and in order to avoid giving fresh grounds 
for Chole's suspicions, I resolved to keep out of their 
way altogether. But it was to be otherwise, for hardly 
had I been a fortnight in my new place when Madjid 
himself came, followed by a great retinue. 



266 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

" Good morning, Saline," he cried ; " you see I am 
the first to come, though I am so much your senior, 
to thank you for getting me out of that dilemma with 
the Englishman." 

" Oh, my brother, that was nothing, really nothing 
worth speaking of," I stammered, for no one w 7 as 
taken more by surprise by this visit than myself. 
Nor did Madjid, in his kind and generous way, allude 
to aught that had occurred, but tried to put me at 
my ease at once by talking of all sorts of other 
things. 

"You will, I hope, come and see Chadudj one of 
these days ? " 

" Yes, surely I will come," was the reply I naturally 
gave. 

M And our aunt Asche, who loves you so dearly, 
now lives with us, and she will be so rejoiced to see 
you again." 

Madjid stayed about an hour, and we parted per- 
fectly reconciled. The news of his visit spread all 
over the town the same day, and it was of course also 
reported to Chole. 

Now that Madjid had been the first to come to me, 
which I could never have looked for, the only course 
left open to me, even if I had remained unforgiving in 
my heart, was to return his call and also inquire for 
Chadudj and my aunt Asche. I could not then fore- 
see how dear this simple act of courtesy w r as to cost 
me afterwards. This step is still considered the 
greatest crime on my part. Such excess of jealousy 
may appear incomprehensible, yet at the time it was 
unfortunately but too well in keeping with the rest of 



MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 267 

our family affairs, as I found out by and by. Indeed 
it had to be neck or nothiug. Friendliness with both 
factions of our family was a thing utterly out of the 
question. 

The two parties existed as before, and the intrigues 
continued unabated, only more secretly. 

It is the nature of Eastern people to be very candid. 
They are unable to dissimulate in the masterly manner 
that answers so well here. An Oriental rarely con- 
ceals his aversion to a person who has affronted him 
by look, word, or deed; he at once betrays his feelings 
as a child would. Dissimulation, if such a thing could 
be practised with any degree of success by our quick- 
tempered Southerners, would be simply put down to 
cowardice. They reason thus : " Why should I show 
myself otherwise than I am ? Are not all my thoughts 
and feelings known to the Lord ? Why then should I 
try to dissemble in the face of men or be afraid of 
them ? " 

The engagement and subsequent marriage of two of 
my sisters with two cousins happily caused a little 
diversion in our life ; indeed, the continual quarrels 
and dissensions in our family were suspended for some 
months. As is frequently the case, these sisters 
married to two brothers, had drawn a very different 
lot. The unhappy one had children and the happy 
one had to go without, however much she might long 
for them. Oar circle was further increased b} r a good 
many of our Oman relations, who had come to our 
country on account of the precarious position of our 
brothers there, and for a time at least I could once 
more taste the pleasures of family life. 



'268 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

Above all, I shall never forget one of my friends. I 
may not mention her name or be more explicit here 
as to our relations or separation. All I can take on 
myself to state is that this true friend helped me to 
the last when I was about to leave my home under 
great perils. Being fully acquainted with all my 
domestic concerns, she could not fail to perceive what 
was going on ; still she remained, until I was com- 
pelled to remove her by gentle force till half an hour 
before I left. "Highness," -she said, in taking leave, 
may the Lord of the universe protect you ! I am 
aware that I shall have to give up my life within 
twelve hours ; but for your sake that is not too much ! " 
Her parting words still ring in my ears, and 1 may 
well exclaim : A friend in need is a friend indeed ! 

If people wish to know what is really understood 
by perfect devotion and self-sacrificing friendship, 
they must go to the East. I do not mean to say that 
such friendship is not elsewhere to be met with ; but 
certain it is that where an Arab once loves, his life is 
for evermore consecrated to the object of his heart. 

Though the distinction of classes is nowhere more 
observable than in the East, it is not taken into ac- 
count at all in a case of real friendship. A prince 
will be on the same friendly terms with the son of a 
poor stable-man, whom he is fond of, as with any of 
his more distinguished friends, and without making 
the least distinction between them ; and a princess 
will treat the wives and daughters of a simple over- 
seer as affectionately as the most exalted lady. My 
sister Meje, for instance, formed an intimate friendship 
with the daughter of an overseer. She invited her to 



MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 269 

her palace, and lier attachment to the poor, shy, but 
highly-giffced girl remained a very close one until they 
were separated by death. 

It is no rare occurrence either, that a lady of high 
rank makes a friend of one of her female slaves, not 
a negress of course, but some Abyssinian or Circas- 
sian ; which ends in her being bought by her bene- 
factress for five or six times her value, if purchase 
in her case be possible ; her freedom being secured by 
a legal act for all times. 

In case of imprisonment a friend will always 
spend several hours every day with the prisoner, and 
a banished person is everywhere accompanied by his 
friends. In misfortune and poverty the friends assist 
the luckless person with their fortune, nor is it ever 
required to appeal to the public for contributions on 
such occasions. All this is, as it were, instilled into 
us from early youth, and is thenceforward regarded as 
a matter of course. 



CHAPTEE XXIX. 



GREAT CHANGES. 



While all this bitterness prevailed in our family I 
was made happy by the affection of a young German, 
who lived at Zanzibar as the representative of a Ham- 
burg mercantile firm. A good many untrue reports 
have been published with regard to these, to me, 
important events, and I feel it incumbent on me to 
briefly mention them here. During the reign of my 
brother Madjid the Europeans enjoyed a very respected 
position; they were often and gladly received as guests 
at his house and on his estates, and were alwavs 
treated with marked attention on such occasions. 
My step-sister Chole and myself were on most friendly 
terms with all foreigners in Zanzibar, which led to 
various courtesies, such as the custom of the country 
admitted. The European ladies of Zanzibar for the 
most part called only upon Chole and myself. 

Soon after my removal from Bububu I made the 
acquaintance of my future husband. My house was 
next to his ; the flat roof of his house was a little lower 
than my own. He held his dinner parties in a 
room opposite to where I could watch them ; for 
he knew that this display of a European festivity 



GREAT CHANGES. 271 

must be very interesting to me. Our friendship, 
from which in time sprang love, was soon known 
in the town, and my brother Madjid also was well 
aware of it, but he never showed any displeasure, 
much les^ made me suffer imprisonment on this 
account, as the gossips had it. 

I was, of course, desirous of leaving my home secretly, 
where our union was out of the question. The first 
attempt failed, but a more favourable opportunity soon 
presented itself. Through the mediation of my friend 
Mrs. D., the wife of Dr. D., the .British Vice-consul at 
the time, I was one night taken on board by Mr. P., 
Commander of the British man-of-war, Highflyer; and 
everything having been in waiting and preparation 
for me, we started at once and steered to the north. 
We reached Aden all safe, where I was received 
by a Spanish couple, whom I had known at Zanzibar; 
and there I was going to wait till my affianced hus- 
band could join me; for he was as yet detained at 
Zanzibar in winding up his affairs. 

In the meantime I had been instructed in the 
Christian religion, and was baptized in the English 
Church at Aden with the name of Emily, and married 
immediately after according to the English rite. 
After our marriage we left for Hamburg, via Marseilles, 
where I was received in the kindest manner by the 
parents and relations of my husband. 

I accustomed myself soon to my strange surround- 
ings, and endeavoured to learn all that was necessary 
for me. My dear never-to-be-forgotten husband 
helped me on in all these stages, with the deepest 
interest. Especially fond he was of observing the 



272 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

first impressions that European life and the customs 
of tbe civilized world made on me. I have retained 
a most faithful memory of them, and may speak 
of some on a future occasion. 

Our quiet, happy, and contented life was only to 
last a short while. Little more than three 3-ears 
after our removal to Hamburg, my dear husband had 
the misfortune of falling while jumping from a tram- 
car, and was run over. He expired three days later 
after great sufferings, leaving me quite alone in the 
world with three children, of which the youngest was 
only three months old. For a time I thought of re- 
turning to my native home, but fate decreed that two 
months after this unspeakable grief my dear brother 
Mad j id was also to die, he who had always been so 
kind to me. He did nothing to harm my fiance after 
my departure, but allowed him to settle his affairs at 
Zanzibar without hindrance, nor did he ever after 
manifest the slightest resentment at my secret flight. 
Like a true Moslem he believed in fate and predestina- 
tion, and was convinced that it'was this that took me 
to Germany. He gave me a touching proof of his 
brotherly love shortly before he died by despatching 
a steamer with a full cargo of all kinds of things to 
Hamburg for presents. The generous donor suddenly 
departed this life while the ship was yet on its way. 
I have never seen or received any of the goods in- 
tended for me, nor had I received any intelligence at 
the time of Madjid's generous intention. I only 
learned afterwards that his kind purpose was inter- 
cepted, and that the appearance of the ship at Ham- 
burg at the time was reported to be for the purpose of 



GREAT CHANGES. 273 

repairs. Nine years later I heard from a friend, -who 
had been on board the vessel at Gibraltar, and who 
had then seen the captain, that the cargo was intended 
for me. In spite of every effort to keep their arrival 
in port dark, the dusky crew had by some means 
found out my dwelling in Hamburg. The poor fellows 
were wild with joy at having succeeded, and showed 
their attachment in the most touching manner. 

Two years more I lived in Hamburg, but never 
free from misfortunes. I lost a considerable part of 
my property through the fault -of others, and learnt 
now that the management of my affairs must be 
undertaken by myself. The deepest aversion to the 
place where I had formerly been so happy now? com- 
pletely overpowered me — in addition to which my lrfe 
among the people of that city was not made as plea- 
sant as I could have wished or expected. 

I removed to Dresden, where I met with the kindest 
advances from all sides. From that place I went to 
London, of which I am going to speak in the next* 
chapter. Wishing to lead a quiet life for a time, I 
lived for some years in pretty Kudalstadt, and there 
also I made many dear friends, foremost among whom 
I must mention with gratitude their Eoyal Highnesses. 
I soon recovered my shattered health so far that I 
could think of removing to Berlin, for the better ad- 
vancement of my children's education. There, also, 
my social life was of the happiest. I shall remain 
deeply grateful all my life for the interest evinced 
for me by the most exalted persons there. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON. 

I had always kept up a- correspondence with my 
native country, and had never given up hoping to see 
it again, but the obduracy of my brother had ren- 
dered any reconciliation hitherto impossible. His 
implacability was not, however, on account of my de- 
sertion of the faith — it was what he chose to consider a 
personal affront to him — viz., my renewed friendship 
with his old adversary Madjid ! But I continued to 
yearn for all my dear ones at home, and secretly I 
never relinquished the hope of being once more recon- 
ciled to them. 

All at once a report was spread through the press 
— in the spring of 1875 — a report that stirred my 
whole being, to the effect that my brother Bargasch, 
the sovereign of Zanzibar since Madjid's death, was 
about to visit London. 

I took no steps at first to verify this news, nor did I 
betray the uneasiness it caused me. I had experi- 
enced too many disappointments in my life to allow 
of sanguine hopes, and it required all the power of 
persuasion on the part of my friends to decide me to 
go to London myself. The Secretary of State, Herr 
von Biilow, held out hopes to me of the diplomatic 



SEJID BARGASCII IN LONDON. 275 

aid of the ambassador, Count Miinster, which I regret 
to saj, however, proved of little assistance to me. 

The short time previous to my departure I employed 
in learning English, so as to render myself a little 
less helpless. For nearly eight weeks I was busily 
poring from morn till night over my books, learning 
English words and reciting dialogues. The thought 
of having to leave my three children behind damped 
my ardour not a little all the time. 

After an exhausting, wearying journey, I arrived at 
last in the giant city, where rooms at a hotel had 
been prepared for me by some friends of mine, the 
only persons I knew in all London, and those but 
slightly. I had only seen them once, when they paid 
us, or rather my dear husband, a short call on their 
wedding tour, yet they were ever after kindness and 
devotion itself to me. 

My brother's arrival was only expected a week 
later, and in the intervening time I made myself 
acquainted with all that was new and quite strange 
to me. Count Miinster, on whom I had called at the 
earliest opportunity, kindly promised to assist me 
to the best of his ability. 

Some few days after my arrival, while sitting in the 
drawing-room of my hotel, buried in sad thoughts, the 
card of Dr. P., M.P., the brother of a dear friend of 
mine, was handed to me. I was a perfect stranger to 
him and to his wife, since deceased, but in both I sub- 
sequently found two of the most kind-hearted persons, 
ever ready to pluck the thorns from under my feet. 
They had come to offer me their services, and to 
make at the same time the welcome proposal of carry- 



276 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

ing me off to their own home. I dined with them the 
same day, and removed on the following to their 
house, and as things had thus acquired a more plea- 
sant aspect, I took fresh courage, hoping that the end 
of my mission would take a favourable turn. 

My friends in Germany strongly advised me before 
starting to proceed as cautiously as possible, and in 
the first instance to try and procure the aid of the 
British Government in my behalf. I at last gave way 
to their earnest entreaties, though I had at first been 
resolved — after having often before realized to my cost 
how inexpedient it was of me, a stranger, to negotiate 
matters in Europe — to trust to God and myself alone. 
Pictures rose up in my mind of vague, empty shufflings, 
of diplomatic periphrases, of slight coughs given to 
gain a little time before speaking ; these and many 
more such signs I was soon to be brought face to face 
with. I was to learn that my fate lay in the hands of 
those who study and practise, and finally excel in the 
art of prevarication. 

It was not long after my removal to the residence 
of my kind friends, that the visit of Sir Bartle Frere, 
afterwards Governor-General of South Africa — a 
gentleman whom I had hitherto only known by name 
— was announced to me. If ever I received a proof 
of the truth of certain presentiments, it was on this 
day, on which the hopes most dear to me and the 
future of my children were buried for ever. A most 
unpleasant feeling took possession of me the very 
moment I beheld the great diplomate, who governed 
my native country as he chose, and who held my 
brother Bargasch altogether in his power. 



SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON. 277 

After an exchange of civilities, Sir Bartle began to 
make inquiries about my affairs, and appeared par- 
ticularly anxious to learn the reason of my visit to 
London. I told him — although he seemed fully in- 
formed on these points already — all about my wishes. 
There was not much to tell after all, as I had only 
the one thought of being reconciled to my relations. 

My surprise may be more easily guessed than 
described, when Sir Bartle, after I had done, put the 
plain question to me : " What did I consider of greater 
value to me — a reconciliation with my relations, or the 
securing of my children's future prospects ? " Even 
now I am unable to say what I felt on hearing these 
words ; I had been prepared for anything but for this 
question. I trust I shall not be accused of inconsis- 
tency or of want of courage, if I wavered and hesi- 
tated for a moment. What were my own personal 
hopes and wishes when the welfare of my children was 
at stake ? 

After recovering somewhat from the surprise and 
embarrassment into which this unexpected diplomatic 
move had thrown me, I requested an explanation as 
to the meaning of this question. Sir Bartle then 
declared, and in a very decided manner too, that the 
British Government was by no means disposed to 
mediate between myself and my brother; and that, as 
its guest, it would be highly unbecoming to cause him 
any annoyance. 

It is to this day a matter of grave doubt which 
annoyance he would have considered the greater had 
he been at all consulted in either matter ; signing the 
slave treaty, and therewith giving a formal counte- 



278 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

nance to the English protectorate, or holding out a 
reconciling hand to his sister. 

On the other hand — and this was Sir Bartle's posi- 
tive proposal — if I would promise not to approach my 
brother during his London stay, either personally or 
in writing, the British Government would undertake 
to secure the future of my children. 

I was as sad and disappointed as a person can be, 
who, pining for a refreshing drink from a cool spring 
after a long and dreary march, finds the longed-for 
well closed up by some magic power. I had to choose 
between two alternatives : to act either for myself, 
and without any help from the British Government — 
and this with the certain knowledge, that almost 
unsurmountable obstacles would be raised in my way, 
which I was too weak to overcome — or to accept the 
proffered aid of the Government in the interest of 
my children. Mindful of the promise I had given to 
my motherly friend, Baroness D., at Dresden, not to 
go alone and unprotected to my brother — though I 
never doubted that he would respect English law 
everywhere, and in England especially, if I were to 
confront him suddenly — I finally accepted the proposal 
of the British Government. 

A proposal, however, so vague, that a friend of 
mine could not refrain from inquiring of Sir Bartle 
what inducement had actuated the Government to 
take so sudden an interest in my affairs ; whereupon 
the astute diplomate adduced three reasons : (1) We 
do the Sultan a favour therewith ; (2) We keep the 
princess quiet for a time, and (8) we deprive the 
chancellor, Prince Bismarck, of all pretext of ever 



SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON. 279 

taking up the matter himself. All these reasons 
seemed on the surface perfectly plausible and re- 
assuring. 

In order to avoid even the appearance of a pre- 
meditated meeting with my brother, either in such 
public buildings to which everybody has access, or 
in the park and in the streets, I studied .the pro- 
gramme of my brother's daily excursions in the 
papers ; I even requested my kind hostess not to 
take me with her in her drives ; but to this she would 
not agree, saying that my health would suffer, and 
proposed that we should take quite opposite routes, 
and thus we went West when the Sultan had gone East, 
and vice versa. Such a precaution was indispensable 
as far as I was concerned, for I could not have 
trusted myself to remain mistress of my feelings if a 
meeting had taken place. On the other hand, there 
was but little danger of a recognition on his part— my 
own dear mother would not have known me again in 
my present attire — much less any one of my brothers, 
who had hardly ever had an opportunity of seeing 
me without a mask. 

I should have preferred to leave London at once, 
where I had seen all my hopes destroyed, and to re- 
turn home. But even this I was not allowed to do. 
I had to stay many weeks longer far away from my 
children, full of anxiety and care. Sir Bartle Frere 
had so willed it. Before taking my departure I was 
requested to send in a detailed memorial. Not only 
was I wholly inexperienced and unversed in this 
branch of business, but my sorrows had reduced my 
mental energies almost to those of an automaton. 



2S0 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

I, therefore, with "what remaining hope I had of 
eventual success, accepted the offer of my kind friends 
to draw up the memorial for me, and after a pro- 
tracted stay of seven weeks I was at last able to leave 
England and to return to my children; but with what a 
heavy heart I quitted its shores may be easily imagined ! 
Zanzibar was already considered at that time a 
future British colony, so my memorial was first to be 
submitted to the Indian Government. Several months 
had passed in nursing my hopes, when they were 
suddenly broken in upon one morning by the receipt 
of a letter from London, enclosing the copy of a 
document, forwarded to me by the British Govern- 
ment through Count Miinster, declining to enter upon 
any of the terms of my petition that Sir Bartle had 
so warmly urged upon me. As a reason for this 
refusal was adduced : that, as I had married a 
German, and was residing in German^ , my case came 
within German jurisdiction. This flimsy prevari- 
cation was the more contemptible, as I had asked no 
alms of either of the two Governments, but, in the 
name of justice, the moral support of both. Sir 
Bartle Frere had himself incited the memorial — the 
same diplomate who had shortly before annihilated 
the object of my mission to London with the bribe of 
securing the future of my children ! I had been 
given to understand that the memorial was intended 
to be a formal compliance on my part with the com- 
pact the English Government had entered into with 
me, and that the former would now carry out theirs 
as I had carried out mine. But oh ! how dearly I 
was to pay for my credulity ! 



SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON. 281 

My husband had been a German, and I, therefore, 
would be regarded as a German subject also. Oh ! 
now I perceive ! I could lay, of course, no claims to 
English chivalry or generosity. And yet why, I ask 
myself, had the truth of my nationality never been 
realized till my concordance had been extorted ; why 
did I receive strict injunctions to conform to the com- 
pact as though it had been entered into with an 
English woman. I can only explain it thus : that 
until my brother had signed the treaty, and so long 
as he was within reach of any hints I might feel in- 
clined to give him, and be able to give him, from my 
better knowledge of European tactics, I was bound 
over on my honour, as any ordinary English citizen, 
"to keep the peace," and thereby acknowledging my 
power, as the Sultan's sister, of possibly " disturbing 
it." But no sooner had my brother regained his 
shores and I mine, than the last card was played, 
and I suddenly became once more a pure German 
subject. All this I concluded slowly and painfully, and 
learnt subsequently that I had interpreted the whole 
course of events rightly, that I was, in a word, the 
victim of the "Humane Policy " adopted by Zanzibar. 
Let me, however, here distinctly impress my readers 
with the fact that though I may trace the source of 
all my miseries to the wily machinations of the 
Government of England, I feel in my heart not only 
gratitude, but the deepest affectionate remembrance 
of kindness and sympathy received at the hands of 
English society. 



19 



CHAPTEE XXXI. 

HE -VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 

When I wrote the preceding chapter some years ago, 
I did certainly not dream of the possibility of ever 
seeing the most ardent wish realized that filled my 
thoughts and my very being. The eventful years 
that had elapsed since I had last seen my dear home, 
had been fraught with many storms and hardships. 
I had meanwhile passed through the most wonderful 
changes of life — I had outlived the most cruel trials. 
Thanks to my good constitution, I was able to brave 
all the rugged duties that devolve upon the dwellers 
of the North, but only for the first few years. As 
they went on I was made aware of my decreasing 
powers of resistance. 

About two years ago, I said one evening to my 
two daughters : "Children, I cannot help thinking — 
and have been pursued by the thought for some time 
— that this would be a favourable moment for re- 
turning to Zanzibar." I then explained my views 
more fully. One of them reminded me of the evil 
star that had frustrated so many of our dearest hopes, 
and then drew a sad picture of the renewed anguish 
and disappointment this enterprise might have in 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 283 

store for us. The other one, however, replied eagerly : 
" No, mamma, nothing must be left untried. You 
might reproach yourself afterwards with the thought 
that you had missed the right moment." And she 
thought as I did. 

I took the necessary steps confidently, and w r as met 
in high official quarters with a kind encouragement, 
but the matter did not progress for a long time 
After several disappointments, and when I had 
already given up all hope of ever satisfying my 
longing for home, I one day received a summons 
from the foreign office to hold myself in readiness to 
depart for Zanzibar shortly. The surprise caused by 
this news was so overwhelming as almost to deprive 
me for a time of all power of realizing my good 
fortune. Next to God I felt most thankful to the 
Government, and to our beloved emperor, for whom 
I as well as my children will always preserve the 
deepest gratitude. 

I need not dwell on the preliminaries of our de- 
parture — they were those usually accompanying' a 
long voyage. And as for the political features of 
the expedition, they were sufficiently explained by the 
daily papers at the time. 

On the 12th of July, 1885, I was to be at Port 
Said. On the 1st of that month I left Berlin with 
my children, and went via Breslau and Vienna to 
Trieste, where we arrived on the 3rd. My children 
were charmed with all the beauty they saw. As for 
myself, I could not well help being more keen on the 
issue than on the incidents of our journey. The 
peace and quiet I had not known for weeks I found 



284 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

again on board the Lloyd steamer Venus after we had 
put out to sea, and here I tasted the first sweet 
enjo} T ments that offered on all sides. The weather 
was so beautiful that we could remain on deck nearly 
all day long. 

On the 5th we touched at Corfu, visited the most 
beautiful spots in the island by a few hours drive, 
and rejoined our steamer in the afternoon, highly 
pleased with what we had seen. Past barren Ithaca 
on the south point of Greece, and lofty Candia, our 
vessel brought us, on the 8th, to Alexandria. A 
hushed and almost holy feeling of home overcame 
me as I entered this city with palm-trees and minarets, 
a feeling that can only be experienced but not 
described, and which only those understand who 
have, under similar circumstances, been long absent 
from their home. Of the real South I had seen 
nothing for nineteen years, and my winters had been 
passed in Germany by the fireside. Busily as I had 
always been engaged with the duties of house- 
keeping, my thoughts had ever wandered far away. 
To me the greatest pleasure and recreation had been 
to sit down quietly and alone with a book all about 
the South. Now that I was actually face to face 
again with Eastern life in the bustling port of 
Alexandria, I stood as one in a dream — afraid of 
waking to the fact that I had only been steeped into 
it by the perusal of some well-told, life-like de- 
scription. 

AYe were requested at the custom-house to show 
our passports, but I had decided to give my name only 
in case of absolute necessity, and I therefore asked 



HE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 285 

my travelling companion if I might use one of her 
own cards, and, curiously enough, this was considered 
quite satisfactory, and we passed on. After this we 
had positively to fight our way, with the help of 
constables, through the clamouring crowd offering their 
various services ; and finally, having reached a cab, we 
got in and asked to be driven to the hotel. But even 
here one of our persecutors managed to fasten him- 
self on again, warning us, with much agitation, against 
proceeding any further without his assistance as 
interpreter, when, to his utter astonishment, I told 
him in Arabic that we were perfectly able to take 
care of ourselves. 

The two days we spent in our expensive and dirty 
hotel passed quickly enough. I was most delighted 
with a visit to the Arab quarter, where I remained 
for hours watching the ever-varying scenes of its 
animated life. After being, eyed rather suspiciously 
at first I began to talk to them in Arabic to their 
intense astonishment. " Mother * " they cried on all 
sides, " where didst thou learn to speak our language 
so beautifully ? Surely thou must have been to 
Bagdad ; how long didst thou live there ?" 

Mhammed, our Arab cabdriver, soon took such a 
fancy to us, that he beseeched me to take him with 
me a3 my servant. He assured me he would serve us 
faithfully all his life, and never touch a single bottle 
of our wine. He was quite downcast when he came 
next morning to drive us to the port, and I scarcely 
knew how to console the poor fellow. 

Our short stay at Alexandria had been a most 

* " Mother " is a friendly term of address. 



286 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

happy one. After a passage of eighteen hours we 
arrived at Port Said, where we went on board the 
Adler, one of the tugs of the East African squadron. 
Port Said is only a small harbour town, but every- 
thing is to be obtained there, and the shops contain 
everything one can possibly wish for. 

Here the desert begins, through which runs the 
"canal" that connects the Mediterranean and the 
Eed Sea. The channel is so narrow that two ships 
cannot pass each other ; crossing stations have 
been established at various points, and their names 
put up, as " Gare Limite Sud," or " Gare Lirnite 
Nord." Ships have to wait here sometimes for 
hours, until a vessel coming the other way has passed 
the station. At Port Said or at Suez a channel- 
pilot is taken on board every steamer, who under- 
stmds the meaning of the ball-signals, indicating 
by their number and position whether you may go on, 
cr how many ships are expected to pass by. No ship 
is allowed to go through the channel under full 
stam, to prevent the undulation damaging the 
sanely banks ; at night all traffic is stopped. Not- 
withstanding these several hindrances, the passage 
is quite an interesting one — especially when some of 
the ships race through the large salt lake to reach 
the canal first. 

Near Suez the channel widens, and we entered the 
Red Sea at last under "full steam." The heat, 
which had been great before, became almost un- 
bearable when we entered this branch of the sea 
enclosed by high rocky walls. Yv T e could not keep a dry 
thread on us night or day. I felt more at ease in 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 28? 

this, to me, familiar heat, than I had felt all the long 
years I had been away ; but my children were quite 
prostrated with it. The port holes could not be 
opened, as the sea was running very high ; and the air 
became so oppressive below that we preferred sleeping 
on deck at night on chairs instead of retiring to our 
cabins. 

Seven days it took us to get to Aden, and in that 
port we had to remain five days before the Adler 
received orders at last to proceed on the voyage ; and 
then who more rejoiced than myself ? I was to see 
my home again at last in eight days more. 

We had not suffered from a rough sea as far as 
Aden, but hardly had we got clear of that rocky port, 
when that fearful south-west monsoon began to blow. 
We were now in those dangerous regions, where 
H.M.S. A ugusta had gone down some weeks before. 
One morning at eight w r e were just having breakfast 
on deck with the officers, when the first tremendous 
sea came over and speedily dispersed all the company. 
And now began three awful days and nights ! We 
were in the midst of an appalling hurricane. The 
foam of the waves broke over the funnels, which, after 
the storm was over, stood there perfectly white with 
the brine. I must despair of giving an adequate 
description of our dangerous situation ; and our bodily 
sufferings and discomforts, too, were very great. The 
pitching and rolling the first day made us, of course, 
very ill, but our miseries even increased. Our cabins 
were swamped, so that we could not get into them. 
Indeed, in the face of our great danger, w r e did not 
think of undressing for three nights running. We 



288 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

all had to sit in the gentlemen's saloon under um- 
brellas, for although the ports and skylights were 
tightly screwed down, and the latter covered with 
tarpaulins — the state of our atmosphere may be better 
imagined than described — the water oozed through 
the decks. Toilet was dispensed with, for we had no 
dry changes to replace the sopping garments we were 
wearing. 

After three days, at last the storm abated a little, 
but though the sea still came over at times, we could at 
least stay on deck, on a raised seat, under an awning. 

My anxiety had naturally been very great at first, 
but I soon became quite calm and composed, remem- 
bering that we are at all times in God's hands, and 
filled with gratitude that I had my three children 
with me. 

The island of Pemba came in sight on the 2nd of 
August. The distance thence to Zanzibar is only 
thirty miles, which can easily be travelled over in 
three hours. As it grew dark we made for the north- 
cape of Zanzibar, it being dangerous to enter the 
port at night on account of the many sandbanks. 

It was a curious coincidence that I was to see my 
native home again in the same month in which I had 
left it nineteen years before, and exactly on the same 
day and at the same hour I had lost my husband 
fifteen years ago. I need scarcely speak of my heart's 
anguish on that day. Earlier than usual I retired to 
my berth, but never closed an eye all night. My 
whole soul shaped itself into a prayer, and God, in His 
mercy, heard it, and gave me comfort once more. 

Our ship drifted slowly during the night towards 



KE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 289 

the lighthouse, and when I came on deck early in the 
morning the palm-trees of my native home greeted me 
from afar. At sight of them I again broke down. I 
went back to my cabin and prayed. The conflict of 
my feelings was only an echo of the many conflicts 
my life had known. What indeed are we poor human 
beings but frail skiffs tossed on the ocean of life. I 
had left my native home an Arab and a true Ma- 
hometan ; I returned an undeserving Christian, and 
half a German. 

But at this moment it was given me to live all my 
youth over again. Eveiything stood vividly before 
me, and the merry pictures of the past rose one by 
one, and filled me with exultant joy. Even my happy, 
light-hearted children seemed silent and thoughtful 
in this hour. They clung to me all that day, and 
through their glistening eyes I could read the sym- 
pathy that their full hearts could not speak. Though 
my life has been robbed of some of its dearest pos- 
sessions, God, in His mercy, has made me rich in 
giving me my loving children. 

On nearing the town we learned, to our regret, that 
the German squadron had not yet arrived. As the 
Adler was to be of its number, chere was nothing for 
us to do but to steam back to the e*ast coast of the 
island, and wait about. In this manner we passed 
eleven days. On the 11th of August at last the man 
on the bridge called out, " Ship in sight ! " which, 
however, did not raise great hopes in us, as we thought 
it might be it passenger steamer. But very soon we 
saw the vessel make straight for us, so we got up 
steam, and hoisted our flag. The vessel turned out 



290 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS, 

to be the tender Ehrenfels, "which had been in search 
of us all the morning, to bring us the commodore's 
order to come into port, the squadron having already 
arrived there four days ago. We made for the port 
at once, but could not run in that night. 

Next morning at six o'clock we were all astir. Far 
off in the distance we saw the forest of masts in port ; 
steaming close in shore we passed many fine palm- 
groves and small negro villages. Come to an anchor 
at last, we found four German men-of-war present, 
H.M. ships Stosch, Gneisefiau, Elisabeth, and Prince 
Adalbert, two English men-of-war, five steamers of the 
Sultan, and several sailing ships. 

Commodore Paschen thought it advisable to treat 
me at first as " secret cargo," a name which caused 
much merriment to all the officers of the squadron. 
However, on the arrival of Admiral Knorr in H.M.S. 
Bismarck, matters were soon smoothed for me. I 
was free to go on shore when I liked. Apart from the 
feelings that moved me at seeing my home again, it 
struck me as very strange that I should be able to 
walk about those streets in broad day, accompanied by 
gentlemen, where I had formerly only been permitted 
to pass at night, veiled. It may be thought that, 
after nineteen years of European life, I might have 
got over this, but Zanzibar brought it back to me 
with far greater force than Egypt, where I had been 
twice since, and did not realize my emancipation 
nearly so much. 

I fancied I could see the most undisguised surprise 
in the faces of all the people who crowded round us 
when I visited the town for the first time. They 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 291 

pressed round me on all sides, calling out to me in 
Arabic and Suakely, "How do you do, my mistress ? " 
Large numbers collected in the narrow streets before 
the shops we had gone into, but made room respect- 
fully when we emerged again. Our escort increased 
day by day, and the welcome on the part of the 
inhabitants grew daily more cordial and more 
affectionate. All this, of course, did not a little annoy 
the Sultan and his counsellor, the British Consul- 
General; the former even thought fit to have a number 
of the persons whipped, who had followed us. He, as 
well as the Consul-General, made a complaint to the 
commander of the squadron about this friendly 
demonstration in my favour. When I heard of this I 
thought it best to tell the people not to accompany me 
any more, but they replied that no fear of punishment 
should prevent them from showing their joy at 
seeing me again. 

Frequently slaves came up to me cautiously, to 
bring me their master's compliments. I was begged 
not to have any doubt of their attachment and fidelity; 
the}' placed their houses at my disposal, and expressed 
their earnest desire to pay me visits on board. These 
slaves also brought me letters secretly, which, in the 
absence of pockets, they had concealed in their tiny 
caps. In passing the houses I often saw a troop of 
ladies retire behind a door w r hen they saw me in the 
distance, and on my approach they would either 
address me or merely call down a blessing — such as : 
"God be with you and keep you in good health." My 
brothers and sisters, my relations and old friends, 
asked me frequently to come and see them, but I 



292 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

always declined their kindly invitations, not from any 
lurking resentment of former days, far from it, for 
my heart yearned for my own flesh and blood ; but 
circumstances compelled me to act as I did. 

Whenever we passed the palace in boats, or walked 
under the windows of the harem, we could see the 
wives of the Sultan waving their hands to us in a 
friendly manner. As I was accompanied on these 
excursions by several naval officers, I had to request 
these gentlemen, in the interest of the women, not to 
salute in return, not wishing to be the ruin of these 
imprudent fair ones. I avoided doing so myself, for I 
had been told that their lord and master was in the 
habit of concealing himself in some place from which 
he could easily watch and find out all that passed on 
the sea and in the streets unknown to them, and then 
follow up his discoveries with cruel punishments. 
This is not conjecture, but a fact well known ; even to 
the Europeans in Zanzibar that happened scarcely a 
year ago. The Sultan from his hidden post had seen 
a Portuguese, gliding past on the water, bow to his 
favourite, a beautiful Circassian, and also saw her 
return the greeting ; a custom she was by no means 
alone, or the first in observing, for thirty years ago, 
when I was quite a child, the English and French 
naval officers, who visited our island, and the foreign 
residents, always bowed to us, and we as invariably 
returned their courteous salutation ; our gentlemen 
had never objected to it, and no one saw any harm in 
it. Bargasch, however, was of a different opinion ; 
he whipped his Circassian for the crime she had 
committed, with his own hands, and in so cruel a 



RE-VISITTNG MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 293 

manner that she expired some days afterwards in 
consequence. He is said to have entreated, vainly 
however, her. pardon on her death-bed, and even now 
has prayers said over her grave. 

On our excursions into the interior we often 
encountered people mounted on donkeys. To show 
us their respect they always dismounted, led their 
beasts past, and then only remounted. Nor could 
any punishment inflicted by the Sultan make the 
inhabitants desist in showing their attachment, and 
it must have vexed him to hear the crowd crying 
beneath his palace windows: "Kuaheri Bibi ! Kuaheri 
Bibi ! " (Farewell, Mistress ! ) every time we got into 
our boat to return on board. I was told that when- 
ever we neared the shore somebody would beat an old 
biscuit-tin like a drum to summon the people together. 

Of course w 7 e w r ere well set round with spies, mostly 
Hindoos, but to their great disgust we only conversed 
in German. Even on the night preceding our depar- 
ture two of my friends (who had come on board to bid 
me good-bye under the shelter of darkness) called my 
attention to the dusky figure of a man, who had often 
honoured- our ship with his presence in the guise of a 
hawker, and who in truth was a very active and clever 
tool employed by the now influential but former lamp- 
cleaner and court-barber, Madoldji Pera Daudji. 

This Pera Daudji, a very wily and cunning Hindoo, 
has become the Sultan's jack-of-all-trades. The lamp- 
cleaner of old now devotes his services to the sovereign 
of Zanzibar in the highest and lowest positions. All 
diplomatic negotiations pass through his hands, but 
the same hands wait upon the guests of the Sultan's 



294 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

table. His salaiy, thirty dollars a month, every one 
will admit to be a low one, but I was told that he 
made it worth any one's while to increase it. This 
omnipotent Pera Daudji is not above bartering his 
influence. Of course, his thirty dollars, that do not 
even suffice to pay for his costly dresses, are replenished 
from other sources of revenue. The court jeweller, 
who refused to give a certain percentage on all orders 
to the ex-lamp-cleaner, lost his custom in consequence. 
Pera Daudji honoured and. entrusted a more accom- 
modating competitor with the execution of such 
orders. 

My birthday happened to fall in this time, and 
now I celebrated the same for the first time in 
my native country, where it is not customary so 
do so. The officers of the squadron did all they 
could to make this day a real festive one to me, 
and they succeeded well. I can hardly thank them 
sufficiently for all their kindness. One very remark- 
able thing happened on this occasion. In honour of 
my birthday (a born Mahometan's !) a pig was killed 
on board the Acller, and almost in sight of Islam's 
most faithful worshippers. If this had been predicted 
to me nineteen years ago by the cleverest of our 
fortune-tellers, I should have scorned the idea, in 
spite of all superstition. 

Viewed from the sea, the town of Zanzibar made 
upon me quite as favourable an impression as it had 
done of old. Perhaps it looked even more pleasant 
now, many new houses have been built, the lighthouse 
in front of the palace, lighted by electricity, looks 
really quite fine. By the officers it was always called 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 295 

the Sultan's Christmas-tree, on account of its many 
rows of lamps. I was much less pleased with the 
appearance of the inner town. 

During my long residence in Europe I may perhaps 
have become more fastidious than Oriental practice 
will allow of; I thought the inner town in a sad con- 
dition of untidiness. Nearly every house in the 
narrow and dirty streets was a heap of ruins. Weeds 
grew everywhere, and even big trees nourished amidst 
these ruins. No one seemed to care; people in the 
most natural manner were picking their way over 
ash-heaps and waterpools. The introduction of a 
good Board of Works does not seem to be quite so 
easy, otherwise this state of affairs would have been 
remedied by the Sultan long since, who has had 
sufficient opportunity during his stay at Bombay, as 
well as in England and France, to become acquainted 
with clean streets. But he has deemed it necessary 
to introduce the manufacture of ice, also electric light, 
a so-called railway and, I know not what else in 
Zanzibar, not to mention French cooks and French 
gastronomy. 

The evident decay of the heart of the town struck 
me painfully indeed. I had not then an idea of the 
condition in which I was to see my old Bet il Mtoni 
again, or Bet il Bas, that was only just finished when 
I left. I was deeply moved when we went to revisit 
the house in which I was born. What a sight ! In 
place of a palace there was nothing but a fast decay- 
ing ruin ; one of the staircases had altogether 
disappeared, the other was choked with weeds, and so 
tottering that it could not be ascended without peril. 



296 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

More than half of the house was a rubbish heap, 
just left as it had tumbled down; the baths, once 
such a favourite place of resort, and always filled 
with a merry throng, had lost their roofs; ruins 
again indicating the place where some of them had 
been. There I stood, gazing with burning eyes at the 
neglect and desolation around with the recollection of 
former and happier days filling my heart with a pain- 
ful mockery of all things earthly and human. 

My companions little knew what anguish was 
mine — they laughed or chatted, or played on those 
heaps. Had I suspected what was awaiting me in the 
old house of my birth, I should have paid it a pre- 
liminary visit by myself. The figures of former 
residents seemed to me to be hovering around and 
gliding from under the dangerously-leaning roofs, the 
half-hanging doors and falling beams. More and 
more vividly did their faces and shapes grow upon 
me. I was moving in their midst, and could hear 
their own familiar voices. How long this delusion 
lasted I know not, but I was suddenly roused into the 
actual present again by the kind ofiicers and my 
children coming to draw me away from the scenes 
that affected me so deeply. 

It is commonly thought, but without reason, that 
the Arabs, in token of their love and respect to then- 
dead, allow the houses formerly inhabited by them 
to fall into ruins. This is incorrect — it is not this 
sentiment, but their innate indolence that makes them 
look with indifference on decay. Arab houses are but 
seldom repaired or renovated — their lime and bricks 
are of a nature to be easily decomposed by the climate 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 297 

—so that when a house gets rather too much out of 
repair, a new one is built instead, and the old one is 
left to crumble away. The value of building ground 
is merely a nominal one. 

My nephew, Ali ben Sund, the son of Zuene, had 
lived, up to his death, in one part of the house, 
which still contained a few comparatively well- 
preserved rooms. His attachment to the old ancestral 
seat of our family was so great that he could never 
live anywhere else, and so he died in this place two 
years ago. 

In this wing we found two Arab soldiers, who had 
come from Oman but a few months previously. They 
had left their families at home, hoping to take back 
to them some of their earnings from the wealthy 
Zanzibar ; but so far they had fared very badly, and 
were yearning to get back to Meskefc as soon as they 
possibly could. Both complained of bodily afflictions, 
and begged me to cure them ; one of them had sore 
eyes, and the other some internal disease. 

When I inquired, somewhat surprised, why they 
lived in the ruins, I was told that they were not 
alone, b.ut only formed part of the guard, which, 
incredible as it may appear, were set to watch over 
the ruins. This, I should think, could hardly have 
been a military measure, but probably one connected 
with the dread of the evil one. I may, however, be 
mistaken in this, as I have for too long a period lost 
sight of this kind of superstition and its adherents. 

As a memento I took with me some grasses, a few 
leaves, and a stone I found in the niche where my 

dear father used to say his prayers. 

20 



298 MEMOIES OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

On leaving the house a well-dressed, rather dis- 
tinguished-looking Arab came up to us, introducing 
himself as the commanding officer of the guard. He 
remained some time with us, and finally escorted us 
to our boat. On approaching the Mtoni we ob- 
served a venerable old man standing in it, engaged 
in ablutions previous to saying his prayers ; and 
when we came nearer we saw that he was stone- 
blind. Since my arrival at Zanzibar I had made it 
a point never to be the first in addressing any one, so 
as to get them into no trouble ; but in this case, and 
with a blind man, I thought I might make an excep- 
tion, so I went up to him, and wished him good 
evening in Arabic, not without some misgiving for 
disturbing him at his devotien, and I, a Christian too, 
was not calculated to draw forth a pleasant acknow- 
ledgment, especially as he could hear that we were 
a European party. I was not a little surprised how- 
ever when he stretched forth both his hands, drew 
mine to his lips, and pressed them for a while to his 
face. I was really touched, and wished to remove 
the doubt of being mistaken for some other person. 
" But do you know who I am ? " I asked. " Indeed, 
I do know you," he replied, " are you not my mistress 
Salme, whom I have often carried about as a child ? 
Oh, we were so rejoiced when we heard you had come 
back. God help and protect you, you who are so dear 
to us all ! " Such and other words like these the 
poor helpless blind man addressed to us on parting. 
The Arab officer, who had been a witness to this 
proof of faithful attachment, told me the old man 
acted as the Muedden (Muezzin) to the colony of Bet 



RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 299 

il Mtoni, and was at the same time appointed by the 
Sultan to say prayers over the tomb of Abd il Sund, 
whom the latter had so bitterly persecuted all his 
life. 

The last remark struck me particularly, for I was 
quite well aware of the heartless and yet childish 
conduct of Bargasch to Ali ben Sund, and to my 
elder sister Eaje. Eaje, a real sister of Ali's mother, 
removed to Zanzibar from Mesket at a pretty ad- 
vanced age some years ago, and was provided by the 
Sultan with a house and an annuity. It was but 
natural that his aunt Eaje went to nurse him, when 
Ali ben Sund, who, without any cause whatever, had 
incurred the bitter hatred of Bargasch, was lying 
mortally ill at Bet il Mtoni, having no wife or 
children to look after him. But Bargasch disapproved 
of the step she had taken — he was perfectly unable to 
understand or to appreciate any service of charity, or 
to show compassion. To make her feel his wrath, he 
not only withdrew her annuity, but actually, without 
any compensation, deprived his aged sister, who was 
old enough to be his mother, of her home. He did 
not appear at Ali's burial, a disregard hardly ever 
shown even to an enemy. And now he has prayers 
said over his grave ! What unaccountable conduct ! 

As I am just talking about the head of our family 
in Zanzibar, I am tempted to lift the veil from 
another part of his life's history. I might feel a great 
reluctance to make known to the world the wickedness 
of people of my own blood — in spite of the many years 
I have been alienated from them, and notwithstanding 
the heartlessness and harshness shown to me by the 



800 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

same Bargasch, in whose interest I have risked and 
imperilled mj life and my fortune, for we cannot, do 
what we may, wipe out a certain compassion for the 
flesh of our flesh — were it not that Bargasch's bowels 
of mercy are closed alike against subject and relation. 

It is a fact well-known in Zanzibar that Bargasch, 
on coming to the throne in 1870, suddenly, and 
without any cause, cast our second youngest brother 
Chalife into prison. The poor fellow there languished 
upwards of three years heavily chained, with irons on 
his legs. An explanation hereof could only be 
guessed — Bargasch probably feared that Chalife, 
being next in succession, might behave to him in the 
same dastardly and treacherous manner as he had 
done himself to Madjid. 

His conscience, however, suddenly smote him. 
When one of his sisters, whom he had likewise 
injured, was about to set out on a pilgrimage to 
Mecca, and dreading the efficacy of a curse pro- 
nounced in the holy city of the Prophet, he went to 
her to beg forgiveness. But his sister positively 
refused it until he had set Chalife free again. 

In spite of this, he continued to have Chalife and 
his friends continually watched, and soon found out 
that the latter had a very faithful and wealthy friend. 
He well remembered the time when it had been a 
matter of great importance to himself to be allied to 
rich chiefs ; nevertheless, he determined to deprive 
the successor to the throne, at any cost, of such 
valuable adhesion and assistance. 

He sent for Chalife's friend, and thus briefly 
announced : " I understand you intend to sell your 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 301 

plantations ; tell me the price you want for them, as 
I should like to buy them." " That must be a mis- 
take," the man replied, " I never had the least inten- 
tion to sell my property." " It will be to your own 
advantage, however, if ycu do sell them to me," he 
was answered. " Now go and consider the matter." 

Some time after, the unfortunate man was again 
summoned before the Sultan, and received with the 
following words : " Tell me, now, what is the price 
for your plantations?" "I have never thought of 
selling any of them, your Highness." "It is quite 
indifferent to me what you think. I shall give you 
50,000 dollars for them. Here is a cheque for the 
amount ; go and make yourself paid." 

The poor fellow departed perfectly heartbroken from 
the presence of the man who in this manner acts as 
the " father of his people." But even here the 
mortification did not stop. When about to cash his 
cheque, he was informed that the whole amount was 
payable only within twenty years, in annual instal- 
ments of 2,500 dollars, the first of which was at his 
command now. The poor man was completely ruined, 
just what the Sultan wanted. 

Another occurrence makes me blush w 7 ith shame, 
and fills me with the deepest pity. One of my sisters 
had been most vilely calumniated — she was said to 
love some one whom Bargasch objected to as brother- 
in-law. When he heard of this report he went to her 
himself, and taxed her with it. In vain she protested 
her innocence and utter ignorance of the whole 
matter — the conscientious brother carried duty so far 
as to personally administer fifty lashes to his own 



802 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

sister ! In consequence of this brutal treatment the 
poor girl was ill in bed for more than a month, and 
suffered from the effects long after. I have no doubt 
that he will have prayers said over her grave after her 
death as he does over those of his wife and of Ali 
ben Sund. 

Europeans may frequently be heard to praise the 
engaging manners of the sovereign of Zanzibar. 
From the above it may easily be judged how much 
of this praise is deserved. One thing, however, is 
certain, that from the bottom of his heart Bargasch 
has never hated anything so much as the mere name 
of Europeans. 

It may be presumed that I did not expect much 
from him as to my private claims. The press made 
a gratuitous statement that I had returned to Europe 
in full possession of my inheritance, consisting of the 
proceeds from the sale of no less than twenty-eight 
houses. This is absolutely untrue; I have not re- 
ceived a penny, and my claims — admitted as just 
ones even by the British Consul-General, and that is 
saying a great deal — remain unsettled to this day. 
My generous brother offered to pay me the large sum 
of 6,000 rupees in full settlement of all my claims, 
which kind offer I declined with thanks, this sum 
being only the merest fraction of what I am entitled 
to. Five of my brothers, five sisters, my aunt Asche, 
three nephews, one niece, and a very rich stepmother 
of mine, have died since he has held the reins of 
government ; and I am entitled to part of the inheri- 
tance from all these. The Sultan waived, under some 
futile pretext, our reconciliation urged by the German 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 303 

Government; and no doubt his delight was great 
when their interest in my cause was finally sub- 
merged by political ones. 

Everything was tried from official quarters to set 
the people against me. Some of our officers had asked 
me to select for them some articles of jewellery they 
wished to take home to their friends. To get these 
we went several times to a jeweller, who worked also 
for the Sultan, without our being aware of it. 

The Sultan no sooner heard of our purchases from 
his faithful Pera Daudji, who had to report all news 
to him, than he sent for the jeweller, upon whom he 
poured out the full measure of wrath and abuse for 
daring to sell us his wares. But the tradesman, gene- 
rally so pliant, quietly replied he could not presume 
to turn his master's sister out of his shop. This 
answer displeased the Sultan still more, so he 
threatened to withdraw his custom altogether. But 
the jeweller, with great composure, announced the 
fact that he had for some time contemplated taking 
his departure from Zanzibar, and that he would 
embrace this opportunity for shutting up his shop, 
and thereby avoid giving me offence. 

In the same way an attempt to annoy me was made 
by prohibiting the owners of donkeys to let out their 
beasts to me, while some of my former slaves, who 
had ventured to pay me a visit, were imprisoned. 

Such and other absurd measures were taken, but 
had just the opposite effect. The people gave their 
opinion of such proceedings in words like these: "Pija 
kana kasi ja watoto, Bibi ! " (He just behaves like 
a little child, Mistress !) 



304 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

When I arrived at Zanzibar I was doubtful of the 
reception I should meet with there, but confident, too, 
that my brother would not delay in carrying out the 
expressed wishes of Germany, and I was not mistaken. 
He would, at all events, out of respect for Germany, 
tolerate me. But the bad treatment that my other 
brothers and sisters had experienced at his hands 
could hardly lead me to expect any friendly advances 
on his part ; and, as for the rest of the inhabitants, it 
gives me the greatest pleasure to state that they gave 
me tokens of their kindly feelings only. Arabs, 
Hindoos, Banyans, and natives repeatedly entreated 
me to remain in Zanzibar for good, which could only 
strengthen my belief that there was no religious aver- 
sion felt for me. One day I met two Arabs, with 
whom I entered into conversation. Hearing from a 
third person that they were relations of mine — I had 
not recognized them — I told them afterwards I should 
not have addressed them had I been aware of this, as 
I knew my relations were not all inclined to be friends 
with me. But they both replied at once that, what- 
ever happened, they could never forget that I was the 
daughter of my father. And when I touched upon the 
religious question, one of them said " this fate had 
been destined to me from the beginning of the world." 
" The God who has severed you and us from our 
home is the same God whom all men adore and 
revere. His mighty will has brought you back to us, 
and we all rejoice at it. And now you and your 
children will stay with us henceforth, will you not ? " 

Proofs of affection and love like these, and the deep 
and indescribable joy of beholding my native land' 



RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 305 

once more, will always associate that voyage with 
some of the sweetest hours of my life. 

But the hour for parting came at last and found me 
oh ! so loath to say a long farewell once more to the 
few but very dear friends I had still. They fully 
shared my grief, and perhaps I could convey its ex- 
pression best to my readers, and thereby put a fitting 
close to my book, by giving the English rendering of 
a letter that they jointly sent to me after I had reached 
Germany again. But its sweet tenderness and origi- 
nality I cannot reproduce: — 

You went from us without a word at parting ; 
This has torn my heart, and filled my soul with sorrow. 
! that I had clung to your neck when you departed hence, 
You might have sat on my head, and walked on my eyes ! 

You live in my heart, and when you went 

You poured grief into my soul such as I ne'er felt before ; 

My body is wasted, and my tears fall fast 

One after one down my cheek like the waves of the sea. 

O Lord of the universe, let us meet again ere we die I 

Be it only one single day before death. 

If we live, we meet again ; 

When we are dead, the Immortal One remains I 

1 that I were a bird to soar to thee on wings of love ; 
But how can the bird soar whose wings are clipped ? 



In the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to draw a 
picture of Oriental life and its customs, especially with 
regard to life at Court, and the position of woman in 
the East. Some of the subjects contained in this book 
may be thought to possess less general interest, but, 



306 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. 

'as part of the whole, my description would have been 
incomplete without them. It must be remembered 
that I have not been writing a novel or a tale of 
fiction, but the faithful recollections connected with 
the life of my native land in all its phases. 

If I have naturally felt tempted to exa'ft such of our 
customs and institutions which, in my opinion, are 
deserving of commendation, I have, on the other hand, 
never endeavoured to excuse or disguise others which, 
in the eyes of more highly-cultured nations at least, 
may justly be ridiculed or thought objectionable ; and 
if, in drawing comparisons between foreign and 
Eastern customs, I have not shrunk from speaking 
my mind openly and candidly, and have sometimes 
sent home a shaft, I may aver, in justice to myself, 
that I have by no means spared myself, but have 
readily and frankly admitted the errors into which I 
fell. 

Even in this century of railroads and rapid commu- 
nication, so much ignorance still exists among Euro- 
pean nations of the customs and institutions of their 
own immediate neighbours, that one can hardly 
wonder how little is actually known about those of 
races far removed. The ablest and most conscientious 
writer must always, to some degree, fall short of 
giving a perfectly precise and faithful picture of a 
foreign nation; and, in the case of an Eastern nation, 
he will, of course, find himself heavily handicapped 
out of all proportion when family and domestic life 
generally is so jealously guarded from the gaze of the 
outer world. 

Having been born and bred in the East, I am in a 



RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 307 

position to set down the unvarnished reflection of my 
Oriental experiences — of its high life and its low life — 
to speak of many peculiarities, and lift the veil from 
things that are always hidden from profane eyes. 
This, I hope, will constitute the main value of my 
book, and my object will have been fully gained if I 
have been able to contribute my share, and, above all, 
if I have succeeded in removing many misconceptions 
and distortions current about the East. 

My task is done — and, in conclusion, it only re- 
mains for me to say farewell to my kind readers, who 
have followed me through these pages, and who, I 
trust, will always bear a friendly memory for one 
whose life has already gathered so rich a store of 
changes and vicissitudes. 



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